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One is tapered 14-20mm. The other is tapered 16-22mm, so they aren't entirely unusable, I suppose I could try a nice laminate near the heel as you suggest on some other builds. My rosewood neck is 17mm, plus a 7mm rosewood fretboard, so I guess the 24mm thickness isn't too bad, especially given...

So I've been making progress on my build (I'll save the pics for a new build thread). I've managed to shape the body with saws, a router and some rasps. The pickups cavities are a little shaky, my template, and router template bit left a serious gap at the edges so I hand finished with a chisel...

Black limba is nice too! Especially the really figured stuff.

I'm of the mindset that the pickups and construction (thru neck, chambered etc.) contribute more to tone than the actual woods themselves. I've played many guitars, and the best sounding ones are the ones with the least amount of pieces, typically. There's many sides to the argument, lots of...

It was bowed slightly on the surfaces to be laminated. 6mm sounds good to me. I'll need to reduce the back of the piece though as I have some cool laser cut engravings on the front.

It was definitely bowed when I got it. I've glued up the three pieces, and the middle piece is bowed down a little. I'm positive I can take it down with planing pretty easily though.

I've had it sitting for about 2 weeks in the same room. Is this enough time do you think?

I'm about to join my neck up. Its a three piece, but one of the pieces bows slightly in the center. Am I ok to glue it up, and take it down via planing or am I best to source new wood? I ordered the stuff online, and the guy agreed to cut it into the laminates that I could glue, but the sawing...

Yeah, direct mount. DiMarzio Ionizers too, so they are very beefy with the wires coming from the bottom of the plate with no legs.

So I began my build today, after sourcing some wood for a great price. I originally wanted Utile with a black walnut cap, but I went for American ash and walnut cap. I'll throw up a new build thread soon when I have gathered a good few photos of the process :yesway: Anyways, I am having...

That Glaive pro is absolutely unreal. One of the best looking guitars I've seen in a long time.

It definitely looks layered. Best bet is to practise on some cheap ass wood until you get the right effect. I'd approach it like : Green base coat (let dry) > green coat (dab with sponge) > spray black in areas (dab with sponge) > overlay with green (dab with sponge)

There are probably guys in here which are more qualified to weigh in, but I have 2 Korean made guitars, a PRS SE and recently got a Chapman ML-7S. Both are great guitars, but don't compare to my Team J RG1527 prestige. It feels better to play, and the materials feel a bit better to the hand. The...

That makes a lot of sense. I'm familiar with intonation and setup, but I'm inexperienced with building and hardtails in general (I was a floyd man for the longest time but I've gone off them). I never thought to string the first and last strings and adjust that way for alignment. Thats clever.

Thats some really great points! Thats a good suggestion with Illustrator. I've managed to get the plans for the BM7 printed to 100% accurate size, but my next will be a fresh idea so I will give that a blast! cheers

I'm going for a 26.5" scale, and I'm going to use fret calculator to get an accurate plot of the board before laser cutting. Regarding the intonation point, is this the edge of the bridge, or is it the point where the saddles contact? I'm a little fuzzy there.

Looks good man! Could you share details of that thicknessing jig? I'll need to stick something like this together for my build. Cheers.

So I'm soon due to begin a 7 String build based on the Blackmachine B7 template posted on here, with a slightly different headstock and contours (more or less just the body outline). I've been doing research for a few weeks, bought some materials and am due to make master templates soon to aid...

Another option is to use plasti-dip. You can spray it right over the guitar, and it dries to a smooth finish. No need to sand. If you get bored of it, peel it off and change to a different colour. I'm doing this soon to my Royal Blue RG1527.

Thats good to know. My 1527 is from 2005. I remember it being one of the only 7 strings available at the time here in the UK. The 1527 had foam under the pickups to support them, but the Ionizer still was a bit bulky for the cavity. There's only 1mm or so difference with the crunchlab and...