Wow, you guys have quite good ideas :) My first thought was to somehow wire the frets to a voltage potential which gets grounded when I touch a specific fret. The problem here will also be the I/O pins on the microprocesser. That's why I thought of wiring them in series with a resistor in...
I still can't decide which inlay design I prefer.. :( You guys please help me and vote: Design #1: Design #2: The inlay will be illuminated in full RGB color and maybe it will even follow the position of my hand (if I can find an easy to implement solution for this problem)
It's n Atmega 328P-PU. And yes, I don't use all of the pins, at least not yet. I don't even know, if the circuit works as intended in the current state (current... get it? lol) If I want to implement more functions, I'll have to redesign the PCB, but right now I just want something to play...
I made that myself with a program called "fritzing" and a CNC router. The thing is that I want to run it with an Atmega chip which is programmable via Arduino. My brother has written an android app which then will allow me to remotely control the lighting on my guitar :D And I also want to hook...
It's like 50 mm string width at the nut and 58 mm neck width. I don't know how it ended up like this because I took reference measurements of my schecter guitar which plays really nicely but somehow I screwed it up
Regarding the inlays, this is what I think might look nice: (Don't mind the white and red stuff) I plan to wire all the frets to a voltage potential which gets grounded over my body when I press a string on a fret, which gives me the ability to light up the area where I play and which also...
Thanks, I really appreciate your interest and curiosity :) I'm right now thinking about an illuminated inlay in a circuit board style... I want to cast it with clear or satin epoxy resin and light it with fibre optics. Because why the fluff not? :D Well... It's almost completely flat which...
Well guys, I'm still alive :D The guitar is somewhat finished (meaning that I can play it but the gimmicks are still missing). But since I am not an experienced guitar builder there are some design flaws, for example the neck is too wide, the headstock angle is too shallow, there are gaps...
I did post a preview of the smoke machine some time ago here in the forum (or rather on instagram and linked the vodeo here since I don't know how to post videos here): https://www.instagram.com/p/BZoaSiFBFkH/?taken-by=hipstaboi_94 But in the final version there will be a button, so no need to...
That's where the smoke comes out :D And yes, the protective foil isn't removed. Gonna save this for a very special moment :lol: The nut, the string keep and also the truss rod cover are made from 5083 aluminium. It's the stuff I have on hand and it also machines very nice. I worked with 7075...
Three more remarks: 1. Why aluminium for the nut? Because I like to work with it, I didn't have bone or whatever, it looks nice and I don't follow any rules that I don't understand ("you have to make the nut out of bone or your guitar will kill you in your sleep and devour your soul since it has...
I have to admit... I'm impressed :D Who said that plywood won't look nice? :fawk: It's also color changing... lol This is the body which I'll use temporarily until I made the new one. It's just oiled with linseed oil, nothing fancy https://www.instagram.com/p/BfZFGxUB7HX/?taken-by=hipstaboi_94...
You gave me the idea to just finish this body with oil or something while I build the improved body... that would give me my first sevenstring (and my first multiscale) to play with :wub3: I know that trick but I don't want them to be clear. Beneath the acrylic is a LED strip and I want that...
Well, I built a guitar... :shawn: I wanted to really test it out (aka play it) but I forgot to make a nut...:facepalm: I will do that in the next days. I also want to refine the shape of the neck a little to adapt it to my liking. Here's a picture of my sophisticated setup to press the frets...
Over the last days I made quite some progress.. :fever: I made the backplate which attaches to the body with magnets. I didn't want to use screws because I need to access the interior components quite often mainly for changing the battery for the LEDs and getting the vaporizer out. The...
Progress update: Pickguard is done, neck is pre-sanded and now I've got a fretboard that's only 0.09 mm (= 0.0035") off in height. I can live with that.. :D Next up is the installation of the inlay dots (still not sure if they should be ebony or some lighter wood. I think I'm going with...