No offense taken and I totally agree. I was speaking from a wood on wood perspective; the best glue solution really depends on whether the crack is above, below or right down the middle of the original glue joint.
Honestly, the damage doesn't look too bad (at least compared to some of the outright decapitations I've glued up over the years.) If the crack is separating when you flex the fretboard have a professional tech glue it up with the "lettsbasses method." I would recommend using thinned wood glue...
Ah good get. I've been using a Porter Cable for awhile now. When you say round-over dance do you mean the way that the sander wants to move or that it's rounding over the edge of the wood?
Happy to help! With wood binding you can either nip the tang and glue the ends down, or saw right through the binding and treat it like the rest of the fretboard. It all depends on the look you're going for. It looks like you're doing an arm bevel. Is the edge of the bevel going to be bound...
Agreed; really nice contours all around! If you have the option of going with Alder I would probably recommend it. Even with a smaller body hard Ash can be a bit harsh on the trebles while Alder tends to be very balanced, musical and well defined regardless of application. Plus, since you have...
I'm a huge fan of the Hipshot hardware. Walnut binding would also look gorgeous and contrast nicely against the both the maple sides of the neck and fretboard but I will say that binding is way trickier than it seems. One way to make it easier for yourself (especially if you're only using it on...
I've used appliance epoxy paint on just about all of my multiscale bridge plates and its about as good as you're going to find without powder-coating or anodizing (if using an aluminum plate.) I would recommend only sanding the plate to 220 grit prior to painting and letting subsequent coats...
Many woodworking hardware stores actually sell a soft rubber stick that is designed to remove wood dust and other particles from sandpaper, files etc (I picked one up at Rockler.) They work wonders and virtually triple the life of sanding papers and discs. As for the sander, as mentioned above...
Hi Aaron, I just wanted to explain my reasons for the recommendations so you can decide what works best for your application. Although I agree with scherzo that foam tape does have more side to side flexibility and the potential for slight motion, since this is your first build, the thickness of...
I've been a fan of Ibanez for almost 20 years now, but even so I don't feel it's worth the price. Ruling out the Meshuggah association (awesome, I know) and just taking what the guitar is on a fundamental level, you get a maple neck-thru, with an alder-slab modified RG shaped body, and a...
If you are getting fret buzz at the first fret, the problem is either a high second fret, or that your neck has too much backbow. Essentially the string is trying to vibrate uphill and is contacting something in the process. An easy way to check the relief of your neck (if you're not used to...
Definitely go the way of the router :) You can make as many mistakes as you need to cutting a proper-fitting template out of MDF or decent-quality plywood, then once it looks and fits right, double-stick foam tape it in position and route the cavities to the required depth with a flush-trim...
I just checked the progress and wow! It looks amazing, especially for your first build! As for your mounting, I would seat the pickups at the bottom of the cavity and trace the mounting holes with a piece of artist's pencil graphite or a tracing scribe through the top of the pickup. Once you...
As a builder I've had a lot of fun playing with scale length. My favorite's would have to be 25.5" for standard 6, 26.25 for detuned 6 (D Standard/Drop C), 27" is perfect for a 7 with a low 56 (or 60 if you're tuning down to A) and 28.5" keeps an 8-string E/F# under tension with a 70 gauge...