2 Part High Gloss Epoxy finishes ?

[Omzig]

Hey guys

Im Looking at using a 2 part Epoxy finish on my black limba Vader/Skywalker body and just wondered if anyone has any feedback/tips for me on using epoxy finishes ?

This is the one im thinking of grabbing ARC Epoxy Superb Glossy Resin Kit @ Ebay

Feedback on it seems great @ Evilbay so i might just go ahead and grab some and do a few quick tests on some scrap to see how it goes on/cures/buffs ect

I think i read that you get a faster/harder cure on epoxy finishes if you can keep the room temp above 25 degrees C and starve the pieces surface of oxygen?

Any feedback/tips pics of your own epoxy finishes will be greatly appreciated.

 

[KnightBrolaire]

epoxy is a pain in the ass for non-flat surfaces. It's also a fucking nightmare to try and sand. Ymmv but I think it's too much work to bother using again.

 

[KR250]

epoxy is a pain in the ass for non-flat surfaces. It's also a fucking nightmare to try and sand. Ymmv but I think it's too much work to bother using again.

I concur. The only way I've had any small success is by wiping it on in very thin coats, but that left witness lines when finish sanding. For a grain sealer I couldn't tell and worked ok, but haven't had any success for a final finish.

 

[Omzig]

Hey guys thanks for the feedback sounds pretty much like using the solarez and rustins plastic coat then a PITA, i stuck a 1kg pack on order and my bro says he'll have it off me for a river shelf/table if it sucks for my body/build, i got a few slabs of BL scrap left over so i'll do a test on those first, super, smashing, great.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

I've used epoxy for fretboards and other miscellaneous woodworking projects, and I would never use it on a whole guitar. Like the others have said, absolute bear to work with and the results, as far as sheen, aren't any better.

 

[CM_X5]

Just gonna parrot the above users in saying epoxy would be way too much to deal with. If you're looking for a durable finish 2K glamour clear coat is really quick drying and way more difficult to screw up. If you do your prep work well enough you almost don't need to do anything after spraying. I had a finish come out so smooth I didn't need to wet sand or polish and I had the guitar assembled the next day (YMMV)

 

[Omzig]

Just gonna parrot the above users in saying epoxy would be way too much to deal with. If you're looking for a durable finish 2K glamour clear coat is really quick drying and way more difficult to screw up. If you do your prep work well enough you almost don't need to do anything after spraying. I had a finish come out so smooth I didn't need to wet sand or polish and I had the guitar assembled the next day (YMMV)

Thanks for the advice, 2k clear was the other option i was looking at but as i don't have a full setup for spraying (just a self built spray tent) i was a bit tentitive about using it because of the horror stories id read about isocyanate based paints

I did a little more digging tonight and managed to find a company offering 2k cans but with a non-isocyanate based hardener they offer a full range of colours + clears

https://www.yourspraypaints.com/

So looks like i can get away with using there stuf with my current DIY 1k can setup & protection

I think i'll keep ARC epoxy stuff to use as a grain filler or maybe just sell it on to my bro for his river thing project.

Again thanks for the feedback and advice you guys rock

 

[pondman]

Spraymax 2k is the easiest and gives a trouble free fast drying easy spray.
Use it outdoors in summer with a full overall or paper suite , good mask + face , eyes and hands covered. I spray with a fan mounted behind me .

 

[Omzig]

Spraymax 2k is the easiest and gives a trouble free fast drying easy spray.
Use it outdoors in summer with a full overall or paper suite , good mask + face , eyes and hands covered. I spray with a fan mounted behind me .

Cool thanks for the feedback, that's pretty much what i do with using 1k + great tip on the rear postion fan! i do have a small fan mounted into the reat of the spray tent to help remove any mist.

Looking over YT there are ppl using 2k cans (no metion if they are isocyanate based or not) with just a face mask, some even with bare arms and no eye ware......are these ppl just mad or what?

 

[pondman]

Aye I've watched vids of those tits. Just keep all your body covered so it cant enter your system.

 

[Omzig]

So i've dropped a few 2k clear gloss can's on order from https://www.yourspraypaints.com/ feedback to come once ive used them.https://www.yourspraypaints.com/

£6 for postage is taking this piss a bit i think but only local place i could find that has 2k instock was £15 + vat a can so still cheaper to buy and get shipped.

Anyhows my Epoxty order arrived this morning and something is not quite right lol

Nothing at all like the epoxy discribed in his ebay ad....totally different brand (union jack arts....not ARC) + it's a 1:1 mix (not 2:1) + it makes no statement on the label that it's suitable for multi laminated build up finishes...wtf

Fucking ebay sellers and ther bait and switch bullshit, going back with the joker of a seller having to pay for return postage.....

 

[dmlinger]

I follow a luthier named Bob Robinson that casts resin tops that he glues on like you would a figured top.

After mixing the 2 parts of the epoxy and any pigment you choose, he pours it into a cast. While it is setting, he lightly heats it with a torch. This helps the epoxy flow and level out while also helping the little bubbles come to the top and pop. It's certainly interesting, but too much work for me.

I've researched all of the different finishes and how they apply and always come back to nitrocellulose lacquer. It is the most forgiving, easily accessible from local stores, fairly cheap, easy to fix mistakes, easy to sand and polish, equipment to shoot can be had for cheap (prevail system or compressor and inexpensive gun setup), cleans up pretty easily with some thinner, and is relatively safe to shoot compared to many other coatings.

We all spend so much time making sure the woodworking portion of guitar building is perfect, only to completely fuck it up with a bad finish. I've had to fix many nitro jobs at various stages of the process and only had to completely sand back twice (so far, it will happen many more times). That is why I choose nitro...hardest to fuck up and easiest to fix.

 

[Omzig]

I follow a luthier named Bob Robinson that casts resin tops that he glues on like you would a figured top.

Snip .

cool thx for the feedback Ive tryed nitro a few time's and as you say it's pretty easy/forgiving to work with even with just a small airbrush setup, but i hate how long it takes to fully cure and the fact that even fully cured it's not very resistent and i hate the yellowing/tint it gives once built up,i also guess its down to the fact that i grew up with guitars and basses that all had poly/high gloss finishes, i will get around to trying an epoxy finish come next summer, kind of glad the seller screwed up because i dont think id have been able to keep the shop at the required 21-25 degrees for 72 hours to get the epoxy cured out.

 

[dmlinger]

I agree on the dry time. The stuff I use recommends 14 days before sanding.

Definitely let a know how the epoxy goes. I’d love there to be an easier finish to apply with good results.