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Rusty_cooley702

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hi ive adjusted the bridge on my 7620 as low as ti can go and its too high fo me
would i have to adjust the truss rod to fix this or maybe im still adjusting to a 25.5 scale I used to play a dean ml 790 with a 24.75 scale

what do you think
 

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Toshiro

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hi ive adjusted the bridge on my 7620 as low as ti can go and its too high fo me
would i have to adjust the truss rod to fix this or maybe im still adjusting to a 25.5 scale I used to play a dean ml 790 with a 24.75 scale

what do you think

Did you back off the set-screw in the studs(raise the stud a little, then put a 1.5mm allen key down the center and loosen that screw up)? Usually you can have the strings laying on the frets before the posts bottom out.

Or is it just fretting out on you? If so a neck adjustment might help. Depends on how low you want it, for very low action you sometimes have to live with a bit of buzz.
 

angus

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You shouldn't need to shim the neck!! You definitely want to avoid that.

It probably just needs a truss adjustment. Does the action get higher and higher as you go toward the bridge from the nut (from a side profile)?
 

Kagami

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Shimming is actually what you're supposed to do, never attempt to correct action with the truss rod as you could easily fuck things up doing that, it is NOT meant to do that, the only thing the truss rod is for is to adjust for string tension causing the neck to bow.
 

bostjan

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If the neck is not straight, then you should adjust the truss rod, or have a professional adjust it for you if you don't want to screw up the neck all permanent-like. If the neck is already as straight as you like, you will have to shim the neck. Using one to three business cards (depending on how much you want to shim up, one would probably be just fine) ine the neck-joint, you can lower the action significantly. Again, if you don't know how to do this, your best bet is to go to a professional guitar technician.
 

angus

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Shimming is actually what you're supposed to do, never attempt to correct action with the truss rod as you could easily fuck things up doing that, it is NOT meant to do that, the only thing the truss rod is for is to adjust for string tension causing the neck to bow.

Yes, and neck bowing affects the action. :nuts:
 

Ishan

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A neck must never been straight, it must have a very light bow and that's it. Everything else is donc with the bridge. Shimming must be used as the last ressort.
 

Stitch

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Yes, and neck bowing affects the action. :nuts:

Correct, but only in rare cases. 98% of the time poor action is due to the bridge being too high or the neck set at the incorrect angle.

Trust me, I deal with these things 3-4 times a day. :cool:

And :nuts: right back at you, sir! :fawk:
 

djpharoah

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I have fonud that I needed to shim almost all of my 4 ibbys that I have owned. It really drops the action at the higher end of the neck.
 

angus

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Correct, but only in rare cases. 98% of the time poor action is due to the bridge being too high or the neck set at the incorrect angle.

It's not even funny how much BS this is. Rare cases? Hhhmm.

Nice statistics. :nono:
 

newamerikangospel

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Also, from what I have gathered from ibyrules when I was messing with my ibanez guitar, sometimes the routing for the locking nuts/the nut on hards setup is alittle too high. 50.2903482375936903457823457% (^_^) of the time, action isn't what makes a guitar feel difficult to play, its the nut setup/back bow or lack of back bow. Never start making adjustments until you are sure you know whats wrong. No point shimming the neck if it turns out to be a nut problem or something totally unrelated.

And man guys, no since in the flaming/dissing.
 


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