Albake21's Build Thread

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Albake21

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Alright everyone, the time has finally come. Ever since I joined this forum, I dreamed of having a build thread of my own. It's been my dream to build my own guitar for as long as I've been playing them. Finally I have the resources, time, and money to do so. So, if you will, join me on my journey of learning how to build guitars!

Original Guitar #1:

So my original plan was to just make a Blackmachine clone, but then I got a spark of creativity. I took a Blackmachine blueprint and built a new body and headstock from it. So the neck pocket and neck dimensions are a Blackmachine.

2u7993m.jpg


So for the specs, I kept it pretty cheap and nothing fancy. Since it's my first, if I screw up, it's not a huge loss.

Specs:
- 3pc Ash Body
- 1pc Birdseye Maple Neck
- Ziricote Fretboard
- Ziricote Cap on Headstock
- Jumbo Nickel Frets
- Tung oil Finish
- Hipshot bridge
- Hipshot Tuners
- 1 push/pull Volume and 3 way switch

To be determined:
- No Dots or dots like my blueprint
- If I do binding on the body, I will stain the top black and keep the back and sides natural
- If no binding then I will stain the whole body with just a darker tint to make the ash warmer looking
- Pickups are TBD

After practicing some wood working the past week, yesterday I officially started. I was able to make a template:

wagaqs.jpg


There is something just so satisfying seeing your work in Photoshop finally in full size.

Thanks for stopping by!
 

makecamera

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Subscribed. That design looks awesome. Reminds me of the Padalka Space 6.
 

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Omzig

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Very nice,great wood combo/contrasts

Kinda reminds me of Overwater basses Progress line from here in the UK they also have the clipp'ed/shorted horns
 

Albake21

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So guys... I think I'm addicted to a new hobby. I ended up going back to the shop again last night, twice in one day for a total of 8 hours lol. I shaped the body and I'm absolutely in love with it. The back has a huge belly cut and the rest is very rounded. I wanted to mesh together a Mayones Regius and Duvell for the back.

20r1wyv.jpg

20uyj3m.jpg

2q3negy.jpg

25s4l69.jpg

fyzfgy.jpg
 

Rattlehead83

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Nice progress! I see that you have few dents here and there... This is a good method for removing them without sanding:
 

crackout

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As long as you still have routing work to do on the body, I wouldn't form the belly and arm cuts as well as rounding over the edges.
Do the pockets first and then do the cosmetics. Otherwise you might have trouble clamping it down properly.
 

Albake21

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As long as you still have routing work to do on the body, I wouldn't form the belly and arm cuts as well as rounding over the edges.
Do the pockets first and then do the cosmetics. Otherwise you might have trouble clamping it down properly.
Definitely didn't think about that one... Well this whole thing is a learning process. I now know for next time, thank you!
 

Albake21

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What I feared happened... I knew I'd screw up the scarf joint. One side looks perfect but the other has a tiny gap. I'm guessing this is unusable and I have to buy another neck blank?

jh5v05.jpg

34yr2wj.jpg
 

KnightBrolaire

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What I feared happened... I knew I'd screw up the scarf joint. One side looks perfect but the other has a tiny gap. I'm guessing this is unusable and I have to buy another neck blank?

jh5v05.jpg

34yr2wj.jpg
nah, either steam the joint and pry it apart (depending on the glue you use), or cut it. You can still salvage that. I'd recommend using some spacer boards (stops denting from clamps and helps distribute clamp force better ime) and c-clamps to get better distribution of pressure on the joints next time. the other trick is to to pin the boards with a staple or such, that helps keep them from sliding around.
 

Albake21

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nah, either steam the joint and pry it apart (depending on the glue you use), or cut it. You can still salvage that.
I'll try my best. Not sure it steam will work because I bought waterproof wood glue. Pretty strong stuff. Thank you
 

KnightBrolaire

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I'll try my best. Not sure it steam will work because I bought waterproof wood glue. Pretty strong stuff. Thank you
in that case, you'll have to cut it. For future reference stay away from titebond 2/3, they leave glue stains and are a bitch to remove compared to titebond original (much gummier/more rubbery). Also, stay away from gorilla glue, that shit sucks for wood working.
 

Albake21

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in that case, you'll have to cut it. For future reference stay away from titebond 2/3, they leave glue stains and are a bitch to remove compared to titebond original (much gummier/more rubbery). Also, stay away from gorilla glue, that shit sucks for wood working.
Well good thing I bought Titebond 2! /s

To be honest, I'm afraid if I cut it and resand it, I might not have enough length for the headstock. Right now it's just over what I need.
 

KnightBrolaire

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Well good thing I bought Titebond 2! /s

To be honest, I'm afraid if I cut it and resand it, I might not have enough length for the headstock. Right now it's just over what I need.
worst case you can always add some extra pieces in the joint to give you the right length. A piece of walnut or other darker wood would make for some nice contrast like this:

41680635532_3c77c32671_h.jpg
 

Albake21

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worst case you can always add some extra pieces in the joint to give you the right length. A piece of walnut or other darker wood would make for some nice contrast.
True, there is plenty of extra scrap wood including walnut and the shop I go to. I might just do that regardless to be on the safe side. Alright, I think I can fix this. Thank you for the help!
 


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