Avenger 7 Multi-Scale Build

[scherzo1928]

an easy solution for the nut, is to have a zero fret, and place a nut behind the zero fret, with the nut being perpendicular to the strings. Now you have the benefits of zero frets (easy low action, same sound on open strings...) and don't need to break your head if you can't visualize other methods.

Edit: for the bridge, try using single wilkinson type saddles, and have a plate (try brass, works great) machined to mount them on. ANY metalworker (or even you) can make a plate.

 

[aaron_rose]

that is exactly what I was thinking about by removing wood the maintain the same reveal, awesome!

 

[aaron_rose]

that is exactly what I was thinking about by removing wood the maintain the same reveal, awesome!

look at my build http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...049-my-adventure-my-first-7-string-build.html

and you can see the saddles I went with, I highly suggest going the same route. they are way more affordable than novax "which u can't really order cause they will say they don't have enough" or stranberg which is a gnarly no go due to customs, tax, shipping, fanfair hype, absoultly badass engineering using the best materials known to man, and all that jazzz that comes with a company like that. Ola and his hardware are second to none so im sure you will pay at least a grand for one and have to cut the head off your guitar as well.

option 3, make it all yourself.

 

[JStraitiff]

^Those are pretty similar to the novax ones. Id be willing to go with those. Where did you say you got them from? A search on purelogik saddles/bridges returns nothing.

Edit: Oh i see that purelojik is a user here haha.

an easy solution for the nut, is to have a zero fret, and place a nut behind the zero fret, with the nut being perpendicular to the strings. Now you have the benefits of zero frets (easy low action, same sound on open strings...) and don't need to break your head if you can't visualize other methods.

Edit: for the bridge, try using single wilkinson type saddles, and have a plate (try brass, works great) machined to mount them on. ANY metalworker (or even you) can make a plate.

I considered a zero fret briefly. I saw that was how you did it on your build. I know very little about zero frets but with the solution i decided on i think it will work just as well. I would also be concerned about the wear on the zero fret with heavy bending which would be more of a prominent issue with steel strings. As for the bridges this was what i was actually referring to when i mentioned screwing the saddles down to a base plate. Just like on the wilkinson bridges.

 

[aaron_rose]

Rondo music!

 

[scherzo1928]

I would also be concerned about the wear on the zero fret with heavy bending...

stainless steel.

 

[JStraitiff]

Rondo music!

You're kidding. i contacted them about buying the saddles from them and was told they are out of stock until summer.

 

[aaron_rose]

tell him to order a crapload for this summers builds!

 

[JStraitiff]

It looks like Agile uses 8 string EMGs on their 7 string pendulums with a similar fan to mine. I guess it wouldnt make a difference because of the blade. I think this is what ill do.

So now ive got my nut/headstock planned, bridge issue solved and pickup issue solved. Im good to go! Time to get back to work. Ill try to cut the neck out tomorrow if i have time. If not tuesday.

 

[JStraitiff]

Random piece of advice: fret find 2d is really good for getting all the measurements for fret work BUT there is nothing accurate about the print out PDF or diagram. It's necessary to measure everything... (Could just be my printer or something like that)

For reference on EMG 707s The maximum recommended overall string width is 2.625". This is
measured at the bridge, from outside to outside. (Info from EMG)

-----

Today i did a rough cut out on the neck. Everything is looking great. I need to get a digital caliper so i can measure especially the frets properly. Ill do that tomorrow. I need to decided how thick i want the body to ultimately be and also make a final decision on how thick i want my top to be so that i can plane down the wings to the right size. Im undecided if i want to mount the wings before i get the top as if my top is off my just a small amount ill be in bad shape.

Im going to carve the top so im thinking i need at least a half inch top. Any input on that?

I have been toying with the idea of adding piezo to this as well. There are some particular songs i want it for and they are on a 6 string so i may save that for a future 6 string build.

Neck cut out roughly

Neck with mahogany wings held up next to it.

Managed to cut the neck out saving a piece one inch thick all the way down. Thicker in one area to allow a heel. This should be plenty for a bolt on or set neck guitar.

Hopefully going to sand the headstock and back of the neck flat and level tomorrow. Im also going to measure the fretboard and frets out and if i get to it spend some time on the wings.

 

[aaron_rose]

dude from the beginning of this thread to where it is now, looking good.!

 

[JStraitiff]

^ lol thanks. I'm glad i scrapped the pine plan.

Picked up a digital caliper today and double checked all my measurements. I also managed to get a print out of my fretfind2d layout that was completely accurate. I wasnt aware that you are supposed to align the light grey border.

I also leveled the edges of the mahogany for the wings and put a little work into leveling the back of the neck. I just want to get it so its level, not perfect as a lot of it will be taken off when i create the neck shape. I hope i dont have to take down the top to add more fretboard height because i would be undoing all my work to get that level.

Thats about all i did today. I dont have any pics.

-----

Ive been debating what color to stain the top. Ive thought about just about every color but one i really like is something like eriza verde. Im down to 3 options.

Green with a darker green sanded back like this
http://jelyfingerguitars.com/images/TRM EV Q10-3.jpg

Green with a black sand back
http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/images/bodies/large/PS6344a.jpg

Or possibly natural finish with a little amber sand back like this
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/4379/screenshot20120417at950.png

Give me your opinions

Edit: Ive narrowed it down to two now

 

[JStraitiff]

Truss rod cavity routed

 

[silent_k]

Im going to carve the top so im thinking i need at least a half inch top. Any input on that?

It depends on the depth of your carve, of course, but most tops intended for carving (like LP style) are 3/4" thick, so you may want to seek out something a bit thicker. 1/2 could certainly work but will obviously be more subtle.

And good call on measuring everything carefully whether you get a good printout from Fretfind or not. I'm planning to do that as well -- seems like the safest option. Looking good!

 

[JStraitiff]

^ Im planning on buying the top wood from here
Quilt carved tops

They have one thats a little over 1/2" then it jumps up to almost a full inch. I dont want that thick of a top so ill get that .57 one. I dont need the carve to be crazy. Im going for that PRS style fake binding and enough carve to add a contour.

 

[JStraitiff]

Alright! Ordered up some wood today. I got .57" thick quilted maple for the top, a quilted maple headstock cap, indian rosewood fretboard and a 16" radius block.

I had to get a piece of rosewood cut for a 6 string bass because they didnt have any regular bass ones in stock (which would have been the perfect size). Im obviously not worried about cutting it down but i wish i could have gotten the thinner piece as the site i ordered from will radius it for you except on the 6 string boards lmao. I could have gotten another type of wood but i didnt see anything that appealed to me.

So feel free to expect updates this week!

 

[JStraitiff]

Got my quilted maple top in yesterday. Tomorrow I'm going to get the wings planed to the size I need

I'm going to be posting the minimal number of pics I have to for a few days cause I stuck using my iPad until I get a new power supply for my laptop.

 

[pondman]

Wow ! this is an amazing build . Kudos for it as a first build as well.

 

[JStraitiff]

Okay, really big update. I glued on the wings cut the rough body shape, routed the control/battery cavities and wire channels and glued on the tops.

And why you're all here - pics:

Neck and wings just after rough body cut

Cavities/channels coming through the wings

Cavities from the back

The tops are still in the clamps so I'll post pics tomorrow after I trim them.

I got my fretboard, headstock cap and radius block in the mail as well so I'll be starting work on the neck end soon.

 

[JStraitiff]

As promised, though a couple days late, here are the pics of the guitar after installing the tops. I flushed them to the body with the router so they are both ready to be final shaped. I need the exact string spacing of the rondo individual bridges before I'm comfortable cutting the neck taper. So if anyone could give me the measurement across 7 saddles from middle to middle of the outer ones I would be greatly appreciative. I calculated the spacing for the template by assuming the spacing between each was 7/16" giving me 2.622", but I want to be certain.

Consider yourselves lucky that I'm going through the trouble of posting this from my iPad haha