Build: Seven string multiscale Telecaster with some gimmicks

[bostjan]

Mockups looks cool as hell.

 

[BlackMastodon]

Upside down cross ist krieg.

 

[jwade]

Nvm

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

Dude. Sweet.

 

[IGC]

Well guys, I'm still alive
The guitar is somewhat finished (meaning that I can play it but the gimmicks are still missing). But since I am not an experienced guitar builder there are some design flaws, for example the neck is too wide, the headstock angle is too shallow, there are gaps between the fretboard and the neck, the backside compartment doesn't look very nice because I had to a lot of manual work to it...
To resolve these and all the other issues I want to rebuild the neck and the body (= the whole guitar )

For the translucent strip of plastic on the perimeter of the guitar and for some of the fixtures and parts in the backside compartment I needed a new way of manufacturing... So I built a 3D printer from scratch
View attachment 62687

Right now I'm in the process of redesigning the CAD files so I can start building again

First build = R & D build

 

[Eumldeuml]

Today I made this...
I mean, which guitar wouldn't need a microprocessor and a bluetooth module?

 

[Lemonbaby]

Today I made this...
I mean, which guitar wouldn't need a microprocessor and a bluetooth module?
View attachment 63139

What's that PCB on the right? I'd go with a single chip solution if that the host MCU and the BT module works as a modem only...

 

[Eumldeuml]

What's that PCB on the right? I'd go with a single chip solution if that the host MCU and the BT module works as a modem only...

I made that myself with a program called "fritzing" and a CNC router.
The thing is that I want to run it with an Atmega chip which is programmable via Arduino. My brother has written an android app which then will allow me to remotely control the lighting on my guitar
And I also want to hook up the electric cigarette to it so that I can trigger the smoke

 

[bostjan]

What type of IC is that? It looks like you're only using a small portion of the I/O

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

Atmega 328pa? Maybe a bigger one.
That's one of my favorite chips. Built a digital processor with one back in college. Good times.

 

[Eumldeuml]

It's n Atmega 328P-PU.
And yes, I don't use all of the pins, at least not yet. I don't even know, if the circuit works as intended in the current state (current... get it? lol)
If I want to implement more functions, I'll have to redesign the PCB, but right now I just want something to play around with

 

[LiveOVErdrive]

This is awesome

 

[Eumldeuml]

I still can't decide which inlay design I prefer..
You guys please help me and vote:

Design #1:


Design #2:


The inlay will be illuminated in full RGB color and maybe it will even follow the position of my hand (if I can find an easy to implement solution for this problem)

 

[odibrom]

(...)

The inlay will be illuminated in full RGB color and maybe it will even follow the position of my hand (if I can find an easy to implement solution for this problem)

For this problem, I'd suggest a continuous sensor at the back of the neck that could follow your thumb position. From there you already have a position reference to work with.

as for the inlays, I cannot help you, I don't like any of those. However, since you're in the mockup, do try to have the whole guitar with strings to see how they look like.

 

[bostjan]

Design #1 seems like it might be more practical if you look at the fretboard whilst playing.

For this problem, I'd suggest a continuous sensor at the back of the neck that could follow your thumb position. From there you already have a position reference to work with.

as for the inlays, I cannot help you, I don't like any of those. However, since you're in the mockup, do try to have the whole guitar with strings to see how they look like.

A discrete position sensor should work, but those might get bulky. If you are any good with arduino, you could have that programmed to light an LED or set of LEDs based on the input of several thin capacitive touch sensors, that could be attached to the back of the neck. I don't know if you can get enough I/O right off of the chip, but there are expanders (TCA6408 or MCP23017).

Another option might be to use a distance meter mounted to the nut and program it to that (mounting to the bridge seems more intuitive, but your picking hand would be in the way.

 

[Eumldeuml]

For this problem, I'd suggest a continuous sensor at the back of the neck that could follow your thumb position. From there you already have a position reference to work with.

A discrete position sensor should work, but those might get bulky. If you are any good with arduino, you could have that programmed to light an LED or set of LEDs based on the input of several thin capacitive touch sensors, that could be attached to the back of the neck. I don't know if you can get enough I/O right off of the chip, but there are expanders (TCA6408 or MCP23017).

Another option might be to use a distance meter mounted to the nut and program it to that (mounting to the bridge seems more intuitive, but your picking hand would be in the way.

Wow, you guys have quite good ideas
My first thought was to somehow wire the frets to a voltage potential which gets grounded when I touch a specific fret.
The problem here will also be the I/O pins on the microprocesser. That's why I thought of wiring them in series with a resistor in between every fret. Now when I touch a fret with a string I close a circuit where I can measure the current or respectively the voltage drop. This will indicate the fret position being played.
But the complicated part with this design is the technical implementation because I need to wire every fret from behind before gluing it in.

 

[odibrom]

The method to be used should be the less invasive possible.

• By a continuous touch sensitive sensor I think you could get different signal values depending on the thumb position and then map those values to the LEDs you want to light up...?
• An infrared sensor could also work, like those to take house measurements...? This one could also be applied to the back of the neck at the neck/body joint, pointing at the nut, tracking the thumb position, so you don't have obstacles to your right hand nor heavier/bulky objects at the nut.
• Conductive paint, either on the back or on the fingerboard surface? Problem is that it might erode due to the finger and playing frictions...? I've seen videos on youtube about conductive paint that allow people to light up lamps and stuff, so... it could also blend well with the guitar's aesthetics?

 

[Eumldeuml]

I'm afraid that any kind of optical sensor might be very easily influenced by the surroundings (reflective surfaces, room lighting, smoke...).
Also I want to avoid anything on the guitar that looks odd. I want every secret feature somewhat hidden

I like the idea of conductive paint! Seems like a quite easy solution but I'll have to read more about that

 

[bostjan]

Wow, you guys have quite good ideas
My first thought was to somehow wire the frets to a voltage potential which gets grounded when I touch a specific fret.
The problem here will also be the I/O pins on the microprocesser. That's why I thought of wiring them in series with a resistor in between every fret. Now when I touch a fret with a string I close a circuit where I can measure the current or respectively the voltage drop. This will indicate the fret position being played.
But the complicated part with this design is the technical implementation because I need to wire every fret from behind before gluing it in.

Hmm, interesting. How would chording work, though? I guess just light up the highest fret?

If you wanted to go all out, you could use both ideas: measure thumb position using conductive paint on the back of the neck, then use a very small constant current power supply with resistors between frets to determine the highest fretted note, and then light up everything in between, so your hands your be backlit with RGB.

Wiring the frets in from underneath before setting them in could be tricky, yes, since there is bound to be some wood dust capable of interfering with your electrical continuity, but maybe you could increase your chances of keeping a good connection by using stranded wire and flattening it out, or maybe painting in the fret slots with conductive paint after removing the dust with compressed air, or both.

Also, be mindful that different metals can react in peculiar ways sometimes. Nickel-steel frets with silver paint and copper wires might corrode one or more of the metals when they come in permanent contact with one another, due to a galvanic reaction.

 

[Ordacleaphobia]

Fascinating thread.
FWIW, I'd vote on the second inlay design. Having them start from the bass end of the board and go down feels more natural.