Carvin Experts: Lend me your knowledge before I jump in

[ShadyDavey]

It hasn't effected US prices but CarvinWorld.com international store hiked their prices a little....A little being roughly £500 more based on the specs of the 7 I bought a couple of months back - worth bearing in mind considering in the US a 727 is currently on sale at $799 and the prices start at $1875 (including shipping/customs/VAT) over here.

Suffice to say that my next 7 ain't going to be a Carvin.

 

[Murmel]

It hasn't effected US prices but CarvinWorld.com international store hiked their prices a little....A little being roughly £500 more based on the specs of the 7 I bought a couple of months back - worth bearing in mind considering in the US a 727 is currently on sale at $799 and the prices start at $1875 (including shipping/customs/VAT) over here.

Suffice to say that my next 7 ain't going to be a Carvin.

Sometimes it sucks to be european, eh?

 

[ShadyDavey]

Sometimes it sucks to be european, eh?

I'm hoping it's a mistake in the new website. Market Forces aside I'd like to see anyone outside of Devries rationalise that sort of difference.

 

[ShadyDavey]

Apparently it's no mistake. I apologise in advance for the slight thread derail:

To all International Carvin Customers,


Carvinworld.com received a major upgrade yesterday which closely mirrors the Carvin.com site. Among the many changes, the most notable one is the new pricing that is shown online. The online pricing was changed to reflect Carvin’s new sales through dealers strategy for Europe and the rest of the world. For the past year Carvin offered our products online directly to the customer. In doing so, many customers used carvinworld.com to decide what they wanted to buy but then asked to make the final purchase through their local shop since they did not want to deal with importing challenges and take the “risk” of dealing with an international company. Musicians simply want the piece of mind that comes with purchasing from their local shop. So with this in mind, the Carvin direct price is no loner available.

Why have the prices gone up so much?

Selling products in Europe for example requires a price that includes the VAT, shipping , dealer/distributor costs all rolled into one number. With the exception of the dealer/distributor cost, the “old” carvinworld price still added in VAT and shipping charges during the cart checkout so the price shown online was actually a lot higher by the time the order was placed. Shipping and VAT can account for as much as 50% of the cost of the product and distribution can add another 50% to put Carvin in your local shop.


Different Prices for Different Markets

If you compare US prices to other countries you will find that it costs more to buy an imported product. For example, a Mesa Boogie Triple Rectifier costs you 1800 USD + tax to purchase from a major online retailer in the US. The same head purchased from a major online shop in Europe is selling this head for 2699-EUR or $3,657-USD. That’s double the US price. It simply cost a lot more to import and floor a product overseas.




Thank you,


Carvinworld Team

I don't care how they wish to justify it - my maths was based entirely on the total price including their shipping, duty and VAT. £500 for distributor fees?

I'd rather pay the extra and go Bernie Rico Jr, Daemoness etc .....

 

[speedyone]

I've owned 2 Carvins:

DC127 maple top/walnut body/maple neck/ebony fretboard = brighter than the sun... 10/10
DC727 swamp ash body/maple neck/bem fretboard = very bright... 8/10

Both were the best PLAYING guitars out of anything mass made or custom I've played in 28 years time.

I ended up selling both because I am flat-out hooked on the tone of a Strat.

In my opinion, 727's are good for detuned/technical metal stuff because (from virtually everyone I know who has owned or played them,) they retain clarity with super high gain.

BUT, people are very polarized about Carvin's electronics/pickups--they either hate the tone, or love it. Initially, I loved the clarity of my 727, especially using the neck pickup for cleans. But my guitar had no warmth whatsoever. It was also surprisingly lacking in bass response; it was more of a lower-mid centered "dunk" than a bass heavy "wump" if that makes ANY sense!

So long story short, playing wise, you will not be disappointed. But you may not care for the tone. Luckily, there is a great return policy.

Also, you should know that if you get the Floyd, it is a licensed floyd and not an original floyd.

I wish you the best in your guitar quest!

 

[djpharoah]

Patrick - here is my advice after owning a pair of totally different Carvin 727s.

1) Get SS frets. These are the single most important detail I immediately noticed after picking up my first Carvin. The frets just allow you to slide, bend and do whatever without any resistance. Better yet when you go to clean up you just have to wipe the gunk of the frets and you've got sweet polished SS frets again. The frets didn't, imo, brighten up the tone at all.

2) I've found Carvins to be inherently bright in tone so choose your woods wisely. If I were to go with a Carvin now I'd do Walnut+maple Neck, Ebony/Birds eye fb, SS frets, Mahogany wings and a Claro Walnut top.

3) Avoid getting the passive/active system Carvin offers. It's a nice novelty but it's a total pain in the ass once you go to replace the pickups. Carvin doesn't even offer a wiring diagram for the active system.

4) Take the most simplest control layout you want - more knobs/switches/coil taps the worse the wiring on the inside. Instead of using mechanical switches or push/pull pots, Carvin decides to use PCBs and Pots attached to the circuit boards to achieve their tonal options. However like I said above there is no wiring diagram that I've found nor do the boards leave themselves open to further modifications with different pickups.

5) I would avoid the floyd version of theirs. I'd just get the fixed bridge one and get the graphtech saddles and call it a day.

 

[7slinger]

Patrick - here is my advice after owning a pair of totally different Carvin 727s.

1) Get SS frets. These are the single most important detail I immediately noticed after picking up my first Carvin. The frets just allow you to slide, bend and do whatever without any resistance. Better yet when you go to clean up you just have to wipe the gunk of the frets and you've got sweet polished SS frets again. The frets didn't, imo, brighten up the tone at all.

2) I've found Carvins to be inherently bright in tone so choose your woods wisely. If I were to go with a Carvin now I'd do Walnut+maple Neck, Ebony/Birds eye fb, SS frets, Mahogany wings and a Claro Walnut top.

3) Avoid getting the passive/active system Carvin offers. It's a nice novelty but it's a total pain in the ass once you go to replace the pickups. Carvin doesn't even offer a wiring diagram for the active system.

4) Take the most simplest control layout you want - more knobs/switches/coil taps the worse the wiring on the inside. Instead of using mechanical switches or push/pull pots, Carvin decides to use PCBs and Pots attached to the circuit boards to achieve their tonal options. However like I said above there is no wiring diagram that I've found nor do the boards leave themselves open to further modifications with different pickups.

5) I would avoid the floyd version of theirs. I'd just get the fixed bridge one and get the graphtech saddles and call it a day.

I planned on getting just a simple control layout and replacing the pups pretty much right away.

It seems like quite a few peeps have issues with the tone of the guitar, that is starting to bother me...also I didn't realize it wasn't an OFR...does anybody know if it's a direct replacement for the route?

I think I read also that pup changes are a bitch, is that due to the routes or just the controls? if it's the routes, that's much more of a problem...if it's just the guts, I'd probably replace everything when I did the pups anyway, so wouldn't be as big a deal.

I wish the Suhr 7 was available, I've been really interested in that since they started talking about it...I don't really know what else to get. the RGD interests me, but I have a tough time swallowing Ibbys prices, and I'd basically be selling an Ibby I know I like, to spend more money on one that I'm not sure about, because I don't know if the scale length will agree with me or not. I already sold my KxK for the same reason (scale length). I have some interest in the new Jackson, but the more I look at it, my interest fades...don't know if I want to go back to EMGs either, though it's been a while so who knows.

fuck I hate being confused, tons of gas and I don't really even know what for

 

[djpharoah]

I planned on getting just a simple control layout and replacing the pups pretty much right away.

It seems like quite a few peeps have issues with the tone of the guitar, that is starting to bother me...also I didn't realize it wasn't an OFR...does anybody know if it's a direct replacement for the route?

It'll work but the strings will not match up in the distance between each other nor will the OFR7s width match the fretboard width. I think some people have succeeded in doing a swap. I believe Edroz did it on here. Some people say that Carvin's floyd is made by Ping or what not but I've never been sure.

I think I read also that pup changes are a bitch, is that due to the routes or just the controls? if it's the routes, that's much more of a problem...if it's just the guts, I'd probably replace everything when I did the pups anyway, so wouldn't be as big a deal.

They are a bitch because the Carvin stock passive pups are much, much narrower than say Dimarzios. Thus the routes are tight. Most people however sand the plastic baseplates of the Dimarzios and then they fit in. However for any other pups (like your BKPs) you'll definitely need to route the routes for width.

I wish the Suhr 7 was available, I've been really interested in that since they started talking about it...I don't really know what else to get. the RGD interests me, but I have a tough time swallowing Ibbys prices, and I'd basically be selling an Ibby I know I like, to spend more money on one that I'm not sure about, because I don't know if the scale length will agree with me or not. I already sold my KxK for the same reason (scale length). I have some interest in the new Jackson, but the more I look at it, my interest fades...don't know if I want to go back to EMGs either, though it's been a while so who knows.

Patrick - you can definitely get the Jackson and swap out the EMGs for passives with EMG sized covers. Check out this thread. It'll change the way you think about it.

 

[troyguitar]

I've been using the licensed floyd on my 747 every day for awhile now with no issues at all. Don't worry about it.

 

[ykcirj]

I'm looking to place an order soon also. This thread was very helpful. The comments regarding lack of bass and overly bright tones worry me. At first I was going with alder/maple. I may go all mahogany now. Possibly walnut. Thanks again to the OP for starting this thread!

 

[7slinger]

1. Some people say that Carvin's floyd is made by Ping or what not but I've never been sure.


2. They are a bitch because the Carvin stock passive pups are much, much narrower than say Dimarzios. Thus the routes are tight. Most people however sand the plastic baseplates of the Dimarzios and then they fit in. However for any other pups (like your BKPs) you'll definitely need to route the routes for width.


3. you can definitely get the Jackson and swap out the EMGs for passives with EMG sized covers. Check out this thread. It'll change the way you think about it.

1. like my golf clubs

2. this is almost the deal breaker for me then

3. ya I suppose that's an option, I just wish everybody used the same fuckin routes

I've been using the licensed floyd on my 747 every day for awhile now with no issues at all. Don't worry about it.

I figured that's the case, it's just irritating to think about spending between $1500 and 2K and not getting "the best," or at least what's usually considered the best

I'm looking to place an order soon also. This thread was very helpful. The comments regarding lack of bass and overly bright tones worry me. At first I was going with alder/maple. I may go all mahogany now. Possibly walnut. Thanks again to the OP for starting this thread!

glad to hear someone else got some use out of this thread

 

[Edroz]

Patrick - here is my advice after owning a pair of totally different Carvin 727s.

1) Get SS frets. These are the single most important detail I immediately noticed after picking up my first Carvin. The frets just allow you to slide, bend and do whatever without any resistance. Better yet when you go to clean up you just have to wipe the gunk of the frets and you've got sweet polished SS frets again. The frets didn't, imo, brighten up the tone at all.

2) I've found Carvins to be inherently bright in tone so choose your woods wisely. If I were to go with a Carvin now I'd do Walnut+maple Neck, Ebony/Birds eye fb, SS frets, Mahogany wings and a Claro Walnut top.

3) Avoid getting the passive/active system Carvin offers. It's a nice novelty but it's a total pain in the ass once you go to replace the pickups. Carvin doesn't even offer a wiring diagram for the active system.

4) Take the most simplest control layout you want - more knobs/switches/coil taps the worse the wiring on the inside. Instead of using mechanical switches or push/pull pots, Carvin decides to use PCBs and Pots attached to the circuit boards to achieve their tonal options. However like I said above there is no wiring diagram that I've found nor do the boards leave themselves open to further modifications with different pickups.

5) I would avoid the floyd version of theirs. I'd just get the fixed bridge one and get the graphtech saddles and call it a day.

i dunno Mesh, i'm seeing alot of inconsistencies in your recommendations.


1) totally agree with you.

2) for advice on taming an inherently bright guitar, your wood choices are highly questionable.

maple for the neck would be the first thing i'd advise against. walnut is also on the brighter end of the tone spectrum not too far off from maple. both ebony and maple for a fretboard will be considerably brighter than rosewood. and don't forget that Carvin used 3/4" thick tops on their guitars that will add to the overall sound.

i'd go all mahogany or koa, and if you have to go with a top, make it koa as well.

3) i don't use the active electronics alot on my DC727, but it works really well for clean tones. you can get almost piezo like cleans when tweaked just right.

i've replaced pickups numerous times in that guitar, and as long as your soldering skills are up to par, the wiring isn't any more difficult to figure out than a non active Carvin. if you just make a note of where the Carvin pickup wires went, you're fine.

5) now i've had some negative comments about the Carvin LFR in the past, but in general, it's not a bad trem at all. my only complaint is that the stock arm assembly is a little flimsy. change it out for a Schaller/ OFR assembly (around $15) and it performs just as well as an OFR.

having used both bridges on a DC727, i will say the OFR feels alot sturdier, and does sustain and sound better.




to the OP.

with Carvin's 10 day trial period, there's no reason to not order a Carvin at some point to see if it's right for you or not.

about 5 or 6 years ago, Carvin really didn't have any competition IMO as far production/ semi- custom 7 strings go. but now, there's just so many great 7s that come stock with "real" pickups and top quality hardware for about the same or less money that Carvins really aren't that great of a deal anymore.

but, for what it's worth my blue DC727 is one of the best 7 strings i've played.

 

[djpharoah]

i dunno Mesh, i'm seeing alot of inconsistencies in your recommendations.

2) for advice on taming an inherently bright guitar, your wood choices are highly questionable.

maple for the neck would be the first thing i'd advise against. walnut is also on the brighter end of the tone spectrum not too far off from maple. both ebony and maple for a fretboard will be considerably brighter than rosewood. and don't forget that Carvin used 3/4" thick tops on their guitars that will add to the overall sound.

i'd go all mahogany or koa, and if you have to go with a top, make it koa as well.

Ed - I've found even the mahogany 727s to be bright so I've just accepted that if I ever think of a 727 I'd just get some woods that aren't really available else where. Don't know if it was just the few that I've tried or something with their construction method I'd just get darker pickups to tame the brightness of the guitar. Koa would totally work too.

 

[kherman]

Don't find my '05 DC727 bright at all.
Maple neck, alder wings.
Definitely a more medium tone compared to my all maple '89 STs.

I don't have any issues with the Lic. Floyd.
It's worked just fine for the past 5 years.
Arm doesn't feel sloppy at all.
Only thing I noticed between it and a OFR is the fine tuners have a little more coarse feel when turning. But, fine tune properly. No issues.

Carvin electronics.
Passives work great. Never had any issues.
I like passives. More warm sounding.
Actives. Too sensitive for me. Pick up every little scrape, scratch, pop. I was having to spray them with electronics cleaner at least twice a year. So, I gutted them in my '94 DC400. Put, in a passive 2 vol, 2 tone configuration (Carvin mini pots). No issues. work great. nice smooth firm feel.

Latest Carvin is my ST300.
AWESOME!!
Plays beautifully.
SS frets combined with Elixar strings. Smoothest most effortless playing guitar ever.
Mahogany neck and body. 5mm maple top.
Very nice sounding with the S22 pickups. Not ice picky at all.

DC727, DC127-ST, ST300, DC200-ST, DC400

 

[speedyone]

Also, pickup routes have been changed to accommodate most other brands now.

Just so you know.

 

[djpharoah]

Also, pickup routes have been changed to accommodate most other brands now.

Just so you know.

Has this changed? Last time on the Carvin BBS board I had heard they enlarged them but people were still having issues with pickups.

 

[7slinger]

It'll work but the strings will not match up in the distance between each other nor will the OFR7s width match the fretboard width. I think some people have succeeded in doing a swap. I believe Edroz did it on here. Some people say that Carvin's floyd is made by Ping or what not but I've never been sure.

so the spacing on the trem carvin uses has wider or narrower string spacing?

i'd go all mahogany or koa, and if you have to go with a top, make it koa as well.

i've replaced pickups numerous times in that guitar, and as long as your soldering skills are up to par, the wiring isn't any more difficult to figure out than a non active Carvin. if you just make a note of where the Carvin pickup wires went, you're fine.

5) now i've had some negative comments about the Carvin LFR in the past, but in general, it's not a bad trem at all. my only complaint is that the stock arm assembly is a little flimsy. change it out for a Schaller/ OFR assembly (around $15) and it performs just as well as an OFR.

having used both bridges on a DC727, i will say the OFR feels alot sturdier, and does sustain and sound better.

with Carvin's 10 day trial period, there's no reason to not order a Carvin at some point to see if it's right for you or not.

thanks for info. so you've never had any problems with pickups physically fitting in the routes?

the trem thing still gets me...what is "Ping?" is this the company that makes the trem carvin uses? it was mentioned above and I was wondering.

ya the return period does make it much more enticing. in fact, if they didn't have the return period, I don't think I'd be considering a Carvin at all.

what finish is that?

Also, pickup routes have been changed to accommodate most other brands now.

ahhh, that would make me very happy...can anyone else verify?

 

[SnowfaLL]

Even tho my DC727 is beat to shit, I still love it. One of the best guitars ive ever played, and hope to get another someday with my own specs.

Make sure to get SS frets, they are amazing.

But yeh, Im clearly a big carvin fan, with 3 amps, 3 guitars and picking up my 3rd bolt this week I think. They are just the best for the money.

Seriously look into buying used, you can find some decked out DC7x7's for around $700-1000, and if you aren't super picky about options its a great deal. Although anything more than $1000, better off buying new with your specs.

 

[kherman]

The finish on my ST300 is Black Stain with Blackburst edges.
Woods are mahogany neck, mahogany wings, 5mm quilt top, ebony fretboard.

So the back of the guitar is what the black stain looks like on the mahogany.

 

[7slinger]

The finish on my ST300 is Black Stain with Blackburst edges.
Woods are mahogany neck, mahogany wings, 5mm quilt top, ebony fretboard.

So the back of the guitar is what the black stain looks like on the mahogany.

thanks, I meant to quote the pic of the front too but screwed it up. finish looks awesome though

btw, I just got home from a weekend in Eau Claire