Carvin Vader

[ASoC]

It's definitely one of the things that concerned me when they first unveiled the bridge choice, I've never played the Hipshot Hardtail stuff before so it's a complete mystery to me. I love the Hipshot hardware that I've had on other guitars just wondering what the thought process was on making the sides so tall compared to the intended string height of the saddles. That was one of the NICE features of the J Custom bridges on the HH models, SUPER comfy! Hoping the new bridge is similar in performance, I really love the J Custom bridges on the Holdsworth models.

Well the normal Hipshot bridge is very nice, there's a reason it's kind of the standard hardtail on higher end guitars these days. I absolutely fell in love with it after I got my DC800.

Knowing that, I'm sure the headless hardware is going to be very high quality.

 

[HighGain510]

Well the normal Hipshot bridge is very nice, there's a reason it's kind of the standard hardtail on higher end guitars these days. I absolutely fell in love with it after I got my DC800.

Knowing that, I'm sure the headless hardware is going to be very high quality.

I'm not doubting the quality of Hipshot hardware, I love their stuff, I'm just wondering about that lip. You can see the Hipshot hardtail sides are lower than the saddles on their normal hardtail bridge too:

That's the only reason I'm concerned.

 

[rockstarazuri]

The bridge might feel awesome and stay in tune well, but that design looks awful to me..

 

[cardinal]

My right-hand technique must be different from y'all's. Occasionally, my right hand might rest on something like that (it does rest on the corner of the Gibraltar 7 I bridge occasionally), but it's hardly noticeable.

I'm legitimately curious: when would your right hand really run into that? Do you palm mute that far back? Just rest your hand right there when picking?

 

[cubix]

Thing is I don't see a point in the bridge edges being higher than the saddles. That's just not necessary. Edges should only keep the saddles tight together so there is no side to side movement on the strings, but for that You can easily make it go to half the height of the saddles. And not so far forward... If You compare this bridge to the Strandberg bridge for example it seems miles behing in terms of design. Sure You can adjust the intonation "on the go" without loosening any strings but I prefer if the saddles are screwed down and have as little loose parts and springs that can and will rattle on You. For me the easiest bridge to control as far as palm muting goes (yes I palm mute in different places depending on the sound I'm after) is the good ol T-o-M bridge and the Strandberg with its directly accessible saddle/string points is closest to that design. Plus it has screw down saddles, unlike the T-o-M which can be a pain with all the loose parts on it...

 

[illimmigrant]

It's definitely one of the things that concerned me when they first unveiled the bridge choice, I've never played the Hipshot Hardtail stuff before so it's a complete mystery to me. I love the Hipshot hardware that I've had on other guitars just wondering what the thought process was on making the sides so tall compared to the intended string height of the saddles. That was one of the NICE features of the J Custom bridges on the HH models, SUPER comfy! Hoping the new bridge is similar in performance, I really love the J Custom bridges on the Holdsworth models.

Are you looking for something very customized? i.e. OPT 50 heavy?
If the options you want are all standard, the 10-day policy would allow you to try it out and get a good feel for it. If you really just can't get along with the bridge, you can return it.

 

[loqtrall]

High bridge-sides or not, I'm gonna have a hard time not ordering one when my income taxes get to me.

 

[decreebass]

The bridge is perfectly comfortable, y'all - no need to worry. I played it every day at NAMM for probably a total of an hour or so. No issues.

 

[rockstarazuri]

A lot of people are forgetting that these might be appealing to those living in the US but not overseas, with all the shipping etc.

And the return policy too, I think its only applicable in the US.

 

[ferret]

A lot of people are forgetting that these might be appealing to those living in the US but not overseas, with all the shipping etc.

And the return policy too, I think its only applicable in the US.

While international sales will be more expensive than US for sure, also have to remember that Carvin is beginning to sell direct over seas and drop their dealer policy. That will hopefully help for the overseas quite a bit.

 

[fortisursus]

Gave Carvin a call today asking about the availability of the 25.5" scale. They took my info and said they'll be calling Feb 2. Seems things are still being sorted out and there is no guarantee that the 25.5" will be offered in the initial release. Guess we'll have to sit around and cross our fingers.

 

[MF_Kitten]

Alright, so as someone who has a guitar with this actual bridge, I can say I haven't had any issues with it at all. I had people come up to me and ask me about it at NAMM too, and all I can say is that I haven't noticed a damn thing at all. It just feels like a normal guitar bridge. Visually it looks like you'll have a big corner in the way, and the saddles are below the edge of the bridge, but honestly it doesn't affect the playing comfort for me at all. I palm mute a lot too, and I haven't noticed a damn thing!

I did have a long talk to the guys at Carvin AND the guys at Hipshot about improving and altering the design of this bridge to make restringing easier though. Hipshot guys said they would figure it out, but right now you might want to use needle nose pliers to pull the ball ends out. That's the only issue though.

 

[Iamatlas]

My right-hand technique must be different from y'all's. Occasionally, my right hand might rest on something like that (it does rest on the corner of the Gibraltar 7 I bridge occasionally), but it's hardly noticeable.

I'm legitimately curious: when would your right hand really run into that? Do you palm mute that far back? Just rest your hand right there when picking?

I think I'd be more concerned about the piece of steel jutting up next to the saddle stopping palm mutes from being as effective - Surely there would be some extra effort/pressure required to mute the top string as effectively as if it were level with/above the edge of the bridge baseplate.

 

[Dabo Fett]

well, i just got on the pre order list so time to pick out specs.

how much do you guys think the chambering will affect the overall tone? thinking probably will go with a swamp ash body

 

[decreebass]

well, i just got on the pre order list so time to pick out specs.

how much do you guys think the chambering will affect the overall tone? thinking probably will go with a swamp ash body

Probably very little unless you had the EXACT same guitar spec'd twice: one with chambering and one solidbody - then you A/B'd them with the same exact riffs played exactly the same way through the exact same signal chain.

Don't feel like chambering is suddenly gonna make it sound like a Gibson hollowbody/archtop or even like an ES335; it doesn't. It still sounds heavy and full. When I was playing the blue flame one they had at NAMM, never once did I detect a 'hollow' sound. Again, though, I suppose there might be some tonal differences if I had two of the same exact guitar with that being the only difference.

 

[Dabo Fett]

Probably very little unless you had the EXACT same guitar spec'd twice: one with chambering and one solidbody - then you A/B'd them with the same exact riffs played exactly the same way through the exact same signal chain.

Don't feel like chambering is suddenly gonna make it sound like a Gibson hollowbody/archtop or even like an ES335; it doesn't. It still sounds heavy and full. When I was playing the blue flame one they had at NAMM, never once did I detect a 'hollow' sound. Again, though, I suppose there might be some tonal differences if I had two of the same exact guitar with that being the only difference.

Exactly what I wanted to hear. There was a time where I just wanted the biggest, heaviest piece of gear I could find. Now I'm only 26 and already have a bad back, so a 5-6lb guitar sounds perfect

 

[HighGain510]

Are you looking for something very customized? i.e. OPT 50 heavy?
If the options you want are all standard, the 10-day policy would allow you to try it out and get a good feel for it. If you really just can't get along with the bridge, you can return it.

Nope it's likely to be fairly basic, nothing crazy unless the colored inlays are an Option 50 deal. Just didn't want to order and wait for it then be disappointed with the bridge when it gets here if it was going to be a problem.

The bridge is perfectly comfortable, y'all - no need to worry. I played it every day at NAMM for probably a total of an hour or so. No issues.

Alright, so as someone who has a guitar with this actual bridge, I can say I haven't had any issues with it at all. I had people come up to me and ask me about it at NAMM too, and all I can say is that I haven't noticed a damn thing at all. It just feels like a normal guitar bridge. Visually it looks like you'll have a big corner in the way, and the saddles are below the edge of the bridge, but honestly it doesn't affect the playing comfort for me at all. I palm mute a lot too, and I haven't noticed a damn thing!

I did have a long talk to the guys at Carvin AND the guys at Hipshot about improving and altering the design of this bridge to make restringing easier though. Hipshot guys said they would figure it out, but right now you might want to use needle nose pliers to pull the ball ends out. That's the only issue though.

NICE! Thanks guys! I was hoping for some first-hand knowledge from folks who played it. Mind is a little more at ease now!

 

[Jake]

I need the builder for this to open so I can figure out what the damage is gonna be

just a few more days

 

[stevo1]

I'm going to be placing my order once my taxes get here too. Thinking about selling my dc7x to fund a good chunk of it, and have this be its replacement, as even though I love my dc7x, I'm not 100% happy about the finish choice.

I talked to chris hong about the oil finishes on ash, and they said they sorted it out. It is an extra cost to do an oil finish on ash, due to several different processes.

Thinking about getting just an alder or ash back with a darker brown top wood like walnut or black limba. I want a gold logo on it too. I kind of dig a rustic look to natural finished guitars. I'll be getting a maple or zebra wood fretboard. The only thing left to decide for me is 7 or 8 string.

 

[Jake]

Will be keeping mine pretty simple.

V6
Alder/maple-quilt top trans white
probably still going with ebony fb
stainless or gold frets
gold hardware
gold logo
white pickup bobbins

hoping to keep it under $1500...if not some options will probably change....