Convert Agile LFR to OFR?? Possible?

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HeadwarP

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(edit) i probably should have posted this in the tech section. bah! (end edit)

I didn't have time to search through thousands of posts, so I wouldn't be offended if a mod moved this.

However I've found myself looking at Agile Interceptor Pro 27 Black Flame EB at HomeOld

The only detail I don't like about it is the LFR7. (i wish they'd put originals to begin with)

I've restrung, tuned, intonated, adjusted spring tension with much success but haven't ever actually taken apart a floyd rose bridge from any guitar.

Is there anybody out there who's converted a LFR7 to an OFR7 (i would imagine its the same cut on all guitars right?) would i need to order a sustain block or would they match in sizes if i simply purchased an OFR7 system.
I'm also wondering if I'd need to change the locking nut (i mean have a luthier change the locking nut)or if i could swtch to the locks that came with the OFR for being more durable and use the same nut.

Looking at the OFR7 on my Loomis it doesn't seem too complicated(im not about to dismantle it however). I'm pretty good with rebuilding things generally. I guess i just want to know if anybody would call this a bad idea and just find a luthier to do it, or if with a few simple purchases some TLC and patient work i could pull this off without hurting the body of the guitar.

Any input would be appreciated.
 

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djpharoah

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The biggest difference between an LFR and the OFRs is the material used. The LFRs, if I recall use stamped metal which is a whole lot weaker than the OFR metal. The stamped metal tends to have microscopic cracks along the edges of the metal and cracks are tiny micro stress concentration zones. When stress builds up in those zones, the cracks open up and your bridge fails. Not only that but the metal isn't work hardened or even cold worked.

The OFRs uses, once again I believe, forged metal which is then work hardened so that its wear resistance is a lot higher than the LFR.

Again Im kinda sketchy on the actual machining processes but thats the gist of the things.

It's not really worth it to convert an LFR to an OFR, it'd be like taking a honda civic and putting a Mercedes Logo on the hood.

Btw - moved the thread & renamed it something more appropriate.
 

HeadwarP

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Thanks much for the move and the advice. I really like the look and specs on that Interceptor. I personally don't trust the LFR however. My only experience with one was horrible. Strings snapping at the locking nut and worse (like i said i'd have a luthier deal w/ the nut change if necessary".

I guess what I really should do is check more into rondo's return policies, see if the LFR is worth a damn and make my decisions from there. I'm just the kind of person who likes to do things right then wait time intervals ordering parts because I didn't think of something.

My main concerns are whether the body would need any additional cutting or if an ordered OFR package would require ordering a separate sustain block that were smaller or something.

thanks again for the input.
 

ugmung

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i would think they're the same dimensions, but from what i understand, OFR7's are pretty hard to find and they're expensive.
 

cev

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I don't know what the general opinion of the Agile LFR's is, but you should really find out before you worry about swapping. LFR's vary a lot - some are pieces of crap, yes, but some are nearly as good as the real deal. The ones in the Agiles might be decent. :shrug:
 

CrushingAnvil

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I dont understand this, how do you plan on turning a licensed floyd rose into an original? just buy an OFR7.

You'd just need to rout the Agile a tincy bit but It would be worth it. And it would look good too.
 

Cancer

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IMO there are 3 major points of suck in a LFR:
1. The LFR bar and bushing
2. Friction between the saddle screw and whale tail grooves

The first two you can go to Guitar Depot Parts and replace for pretty cheap (especially the bushing, this one replacement goes a long way to making an LFR feel much better).

As far as the Interceptor Pro, the LFR are fine, if I were you I would be more concerned about the routing, especially if you're thinking about replacing the LFR with an OFR. Be advised that the trem cavity length seems to be somewhat short, so you end have really crank in the trem claw screw to get the LFR to level. I've already stripped two screws, and snapped one of the replacement screws trying to get it to level.
 

JJ Rodriguez

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You could get high tension springs, or do what I fucked my hand up doing, make high tension springs from regular ones :lol:
 
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