Damaged m-307

[SnowfaLL]

lol yea hes very shady.. He just msged me today also and said he was waiting on my response if i was going to pick it up.. but I said I was gonna talk to u first and see what happened. lol Ill let u have it tho, since hes being a fucker

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

Well, I'm going to ask him for a tracking number and shit before I send payment. Trying to sell it to you even though I said I could have it picked up is pretty shady, but I don't care as long as I get it. I'm talking a buddy of mine right now who paints cars and shit, and works for an autoparts store that has that duplicolor shit that shifts colors. Going to get him to get it for me, for my 7420 when I get around to redrilling the posts for the trem holes, and for this 307. Probably do blue/red on the 307, and purple/green on the 7420.

 

[SnowfaLL]

i mighta found a dude who claims hes selling a KE-2 for $600 CDN in the maritimes... so if thats really a ke-2, thats gonna be friggin sweet.. Would probably refinish that, tung oil back of neck, sand down the cutaway for better access to 24frets... That would be sweet.

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

Are you sure you want to refinish it? We saw the last one you tried

Also, does anyone know if an OFR7 is a direct swap with the current trem?

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

It arrived today. I havn't picked it up from the post office yet, because I'm waiting for someone to drop something off to me, but when I do it'll be time to rock out

 

[eaeolian]

Excellent.

 

[angusyoungwanabe]

nice dude. cant wait to see new pics of it.

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

Well, just as I thought, it is pushed into the control cavity slightly. Hopefully the luthiers on here will give me good repair tips. My idea is to sand it down, get a flat board, fill the crack with wood glue or wood filler, get a peice of wood to put into the control cavity, then C clamp it. I figure the wood in the control cavity will put the crack back into place and it will be flat if I put the board over the top of the guitar. I imagine I'll have to put wax paper or something over the board to keep it from getting glued to the guitar. DPM or msherman, any idea if this idea would work? The crack isn't that bad, and I imagine it won't look nearly as bad once I get the paint off of it, but it would be my first major excursion into guitar repair so it would be fun to try. I figure I'll refinish it with the blue to red paint from duplicolor - http://www.duplicolor.com/products/mirage.html . My friend works at an automotive parts store and says they can order that stuff in.

 

[skinhead]

Nice idea. I think that the mirage of duplicolor it's amazing. And the cans srpay it's different to the standards spray cans, it's like if you where painting with a spray pistol.

BTW you can clamp the wood without problem, i think that titebond it's going to work there, without glueing any wood. Try with some titebond, and then sand. It's harder that the wood, so i think that's going to be great.

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

Nice idea. I think that the mirage of duplicolor it's amazing. And the cans srpay it's different to the standards spray cans, it's like if you where painting with a spray pistol.

BTW you can clamp the wood without problem, i think that titebond it's going to work there, without glueing any wood. Try with some titebond, and then sand. It's harder that the wood, so i think that's going to be great.

Well, I imagine the crack is decently clean, and I don't see any wood missing, so I thought it might be better to just glue/clamp. I PM'ed Dan and Mike Sherman to see if they'd give me their input. I'm definatly digging this guitar though, and I'm trading one of my spare 707's to Zimbloth for an 81-7, so I imagine it's going to sound brutal once I put those in it.

 

[dpm]

The repair idea sounds like the right approach. It depends how much movement is there. If it moves pretty freely you can use a wood glue like Titebond - push and wiggle the loose piece to work the glue deep into the crack. Use plastic cauls for clamping, or cover your wooden cauls with plastic packing tape to stop them sticking to it. Wax paper would likely work ok but it's more fiddling around. Titebond residue can be removed with a warm, damp rag once it's set.
If there's minimal movement thin and medium CA glues are another option, but don't go that route if you have coordination issues or aren't experienced. I'm not being held responsible for crazy glue accidents around here

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

"Uhhh....911? Yeah, it's JJ. Yeah, it's stuck to a guitar this time"

I'm not experienced, and there's no movement really, so I think I'll try the super glue. Is there super glue that isn't that runny? might stay in the crack better before clamping I'm thinking. I have some C clamps here, that's what gave me the idea, they're my moms for quilting I just have to worry about pushing it in more when I'm sanding. I don't want to use chemicals now because I don't want it to seep into the wood in the crack or anything, I have a feeling it wouldn't be good I think it might need a fret levelling too. They're not too worn, but I'm getting some buzzing along the neck.

Wow, I'm really liking the non low profile trem. My palm muting is so much tighter, if that makes any sense. I think I've been missing out on OFR styled trems. I think an OFR might be a direct retrofit too

 

[dpm]

You probably don't want to be clamping and supergluing, unless you've got some teflon blocks handy. If it's barely moving, and you're sure you're going to be refinishing, just soak the area in CA. You'd want it to penetrate nicely and harden the area. That's right, we're talking about penetrating and getting hard I'm in no way recommending any particular approach here btw, because I can't see the guitar in real life it's impossible to say how to go about it with any confidence. Acetone removes superglue, buy some.

I can guarantee at least 90% of the guitars here are in need of fret levelling

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

I should still clamp the crack though to make sure it's not pushed in anymore right? in case it doesn't level out properly should I get some wood filler and kind of level things out just in case? Oh yeah, and how would acetone or other chemical strippers interact with the binding in case I strip the paint with that away from the crack?

 

[dpm]

Acetone would melt the binding if you were to apply it directly, but it evaporates very quickly. It very likely won't do anything to the finish on this guitar. It's a strong solvent for certain plastics but not all. Chemical strippers may or may not strip the finish effectively and will almost certainly melt the binding.
If you can rig up something to clamp it with by all means go for it, but you might end up with that glued to the guitar. Have you got a better picture?

 

[JJ Rodriguez]

I can see if I can take some tomorrow with my moms camera. I suppose I should post some anyways to avoid the obligatory pics emoticon I'll take the pots and stuff out too and show the inside of the cavity closeup.

 

[dpm]

Cool.

There is another approach too........ you could deliberately break it further so that it's easier to work wood glue into.

 

[SnowfaLL]

so you got the guitar alright? cool.

 

[msherman]

Here is how I fix that problem.
I wick CA into the cracks from the control cavity side. Use wax paper on both sides and clamp. Let it dry over night. Depending on how deep the rout is and how much thickness there is, I make a .100 plug from hard maple the exact shape of the control rout. Sand the inside of the control rout floor and glue the plug in. This will reinforce the entire cavity face. You might have to use extended shaft pots (ala Les Paul) in some cases.

If you have the routing equipement, and don`t want to use extended shaft pots, you can deepen the rout .100 before gluing in the plug.

ie...... the same as Cleating a crack on an acoustic instrument....just a big cleat.
I know Dan has some experience in that

Mike

 

[dpm]

That's certainly the thorough method Mike though to cleat it the acoustic way you'd have to do it all through the neck pickup cavity

Good point about the over night cure... although CA often sets extremely quickly when exposed it can take quite a while when it's deep in the wood pores like that.