Decisions - scratch build 7 string, string spacing, scale length, pole-to-string and lots more..

[JimF]

The beauty of a 27" scale, is that the fret spacing is the same as 25.5" albeit with an extra low fret, if that makes sense.
Compared to the 24.75"/25.5" relationship which is just a big mixup, and the enemy of amateur hour muscle memory, like I have.

Edited to add: The first 7 string I had was 26.5" and my second was 27", when I finally got my hands on a 25.5" 7 string it felt odd. The longer scale just made more sense to my head for the "larger" guitar.

 

[NickK-UK]

Paid the ferryman today.. first pair of glasses after an eye test.

Top. 20mm.

3 piece alder for the body - this may end up the two pieces being used for wings.


So the neck, I ended up adding walnut and wenge 4mm pre-thicknessed laminates instead of a block of mahogany. I think these will make a nice colour scheme alongside the hard maple.



I decided also to go with a danish oil finish. So natural, show the woods.

 

[NickK-UK]

Just testing the running board ahead of this afternoon's neck cutting an squaring session.

 

[Lemonbaby]

Theory.. is the neck pickup sits under the peak amplitude for maximum output, with fretting those node positions change and so the response changes.

Maximum output is as close as possible to the 12th fret. Brightest sound is as close as possible to the bridge. That's about it, you can forget all other theoretical improvements targeting for harmonics or similar.

 

[NickK-UK]

Maximum output is as close as possible to the 12th fret. Brightest sound is as close as possible to the bridge. That's about it, you can forget all other theoretical improvements targeting for harmonics or similar.

Yup - interesting when you look at not one but 24*7= 168 notes and then consider fundamentals sympathetic harmonics etc.

I ache.. 2 hours of manual sawing - I still need to level, thickness and square after the slightly wonky 43" cut.. hence the thickness difference (which will be resolved). Please excuse the man cave carpet. It was getting dark and I'm shattered so corrections can wait till tomorrow

The purple heart will go back to purple after being cut/planed - if not a mild heating will return it to vivid purple.

I tried to sneakily attempt to use the broken band saw.. nope.. not having it. Now I'll have to hide that under the body:

 

[NickK-UK]

So update - thicknesses, flattened and squared the maple neck segments and the purple heart (that's a hard wood!).

So the parallel thickness comes to 70mm. more than enough but it will either need a non-parallel purple heart or a slimmed maple neck. Which also means I need to decide if I want a 27" (ie 27.7 like a PRS) or a 28.626" scale length. I've been planning for 29.625" so far.

Hmm..

 

[NickK-UK]

Ok 28.625" it is. I think I can make this work with a 780mm from nut to back of body edge which makes it feel less large for sitting and standing playing. I just don't like having my hands above my shoulder when sat playing. It seems the best option is to reduce the body length behind the bridge.

I think I'll also go with parallel to make it easy for myself. It would mean the maple drops to about 4mm at the neck but it means the scarf joint is easier with parallel.

So it looks like tomorrow is the glue up of the neck laminates. I bought some titebond III which should do fine for this. I also have some of the titebond hide glue for the fretboard and the maple top. I still need to order the truss rod which will probably need to be a 540mm dual action. I'll order a graph tech nut too.

I will need to figure out how to get a perfect cut for the scare joint - I have a picture frame tenon saw that's a frame saw which will do a fine straight cut but I need to check if it will do the right angle. Pity the bandsaw is still out of action (even the replacement guides I bought to see if they'd fit don't - so I'll need to sell that locally).

 

[NickK-UK]

Got enough clamps? (12)

May have overdone the glue, I spread the glue over both sides but enough to squeeze out.

I did make a boo-boo as one of the maples is the wrong way around but given they will be shaped back for the neck anyway I don't think they'll be contributing much force. If not.. there's always guitar MkII.

I should have also cut the top edge down to size but too late for now.

Now the wait..

 

[JimF]

Looking forward to seeing this bank all planed flat! Make sure to wipe away the excess squeeze out, you'll be surprised how much more comes out afterwards.

 

[NickK-UK]

I'm leaving the neck for 24 hours in the clamps but it seemed all good this morning. Only another 3 hours before they can come off and I can start the clean up.

Next I've been looking at the fretboard. Now I have some laser printer film that allows me to print directly (at 600x600dpi, means 0.042mm resolution), now I need to find out how I can make the lines thinner (it seems ekips could print thinner lines but doesn't allow that). This allows me to look at possible fretboards layouts.
The question here is - do I risk using the sapwood (the light area) which may not take the fret tangs as well as the harder areas of the wood. This seems pretty hard to the nail.

This wood looks like desert scene with rolling dunes.

Layout 1: skimming some sapwood

Layout 2: in the densest part of the wood, using the most horizontal lined part of the wood. This is the safe option.

Layout 3: Cutting right to the top to give a skyline (sapwood) and some dunes.

I'm leaning to 3.. It will darken with some danish oil on but should be fine.

 

[pondman]

You've used the wrong glue. Titebond 3 is a waterproof glue and leaves a rubbery flexible joint.
Titebond original is the one to use.

 

[NickK-UK]

You've used the wrong glue. Titebond 3 is a waterproof glue and leaves a rubbery flexible joint.
Titebond original is the one to use.

Yup I'm aware that it cures softer (and may have creep). I can see why people now use titebond original or better still hide glue due to the hardness of the bond transferring sound. The nut, fretboard and top will be hide glue so each laminate strip will get some input but the flexible nature will result in energy for the sustain being lost. (I'm also aware that the tite bond hide glue is less glassy than heated hide glue but still that's better than having to preheat the entire piece).

Only issue is the open time for T1 with a laminate neck - around 5 mins vs around 20 mins for T3. Let's see where this goes anyway. If the guitar appears to be a write off, I can reclaim the parts and make Mk II with the learning experience

 

[Asdrael]

If you do a "dry run" and make sure you have a streamlined workflow for when you actually use glue, there is no problem using Titebond original for everything. It only becomes an issue if you mess up and need to move a piece a few minutes after applying pressure.

 

[NickK-UK]

Looking forward to seeing this bank all planed flat! Make sure to wipe away the excess squeeze out, you'll be surprised how much more comes out afterwards.

Still got some squaring up (and cleaning up) but that's tomorrow.

I've heard that it's good to give the neck a week after laminating to see if there's any issue appearing.

I have to say the rebuilding of my plane irons worked wonders - I took them back to 25degrees with a diamond grit till the blade was entirely across the width with burring, then oil stoned x2 to remove the diamond marks, followed by 600 then 1000 grit wet paper, then to 4000 and 6000 water stones before stropping with compound and then stropping clean. Both planes cut through the purple wood like a knife through butter.

 

[NickK-UK]

If you do a "dry run" and make sure you have a streamlined workflow for when you actually use glue, there is no problem using Titebond original for everything. It only becomes an issue if you mess up and need to move a piece a few minutes after applying pressure.

Yep, too intent to get the thing progressed whilst I have the time which is why I should have followed the 5Ps.. planning prevents pish-poor performance.

I have a sneaking suspicion I'll probably make a few more guitars, mainly to get one built with perhaps one or two minor clangers.

 

[NickK-UK]

Btw, if I've not said before - thank you for the input

 

[pondman]

Use Titebond original for everything wood related.

 

[NickK-UK]

Mock up with the fret board roughed out but not totally sized to the neck. I also have a second fret board too.. perhaps for guitar number 2.. There's black tuners too but they wouldn't standup straight.

I think I'll name the guitar Dune.

 

[JimF]

Love that blank! It looks delicious! You definitely made the right choice with going for #3 as your fretboard option also.

 

[NickK-UK]

So I've just ordered the truss rod, and decided to try two nuts with different spacing - I'll string up using the strat just to get a feel of distance between the strings I prefer - initially I'm leaning towards the 5700 and it's wider string positioning. On a more funky note I chose a purple-black strap, subtle link between the laminate neck and the black components .

I've also ordered a selection of string sets to try. Given I was a hardened fender string user for many years until I switched to EB slinkies (8 gauge), it should be an interesting experience with the heavier strings and different manufacturers, if they actually fit from the ferrule to the tuner.. If these don't work then they'll just be used on the 6 string for drop D.
* D'Addio XL 9-54
* Elixir Optiweb 10-59
* Ernie Ball Paradigm 10-62

Once I've got the body shaping defined better, it will give me my space budget for mounting the controls and jack. There's way too many ways to connect things - position, coil separation, etc but I'll keep it clean, simple and direct - single volume and rotary pickup select.

I'm going to try cutting out a cheap MDF outline of the guitar and then using that to experiment with the position and shaping along with the balance so I can check the best feeling for playing sat and standing. I'm not glued to the music man design so it may get some ergonomic carves that suit me and the scale.