ESP 2021 New Models

[A.JohnHayes]

You're right, of course, and I really like SS frets, but it's just a Tusq nut is cheap for the customer to buy. How much can it be for a company like ESP? I'm just a grumpy fuck who doesn't want to have to mess with a guitar once I've bought it, but I probably will do because I'm hyper picky.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Can we talk about the fact that SS frets is freaking sweet, but plastic nuts on guitars in these price ranges is bananas.

What's wrong with plastic?

You're right, of course, and I really like SS frets, but it's just a Tusq nut is cheap for the customer to buy. How much can it be for a company like ESP? I'm just a grumpy fuck who doesn't want to have to mess with a guitar once I've bought it, but I probably will do because I'm hyper picky.

What do you think GraphTech nuts are made of?

 

[A.JohnHayes]

I thought it was some tasty proprietary material that's better than regular plastic for tuning stability. I really don't know that much, though! I just hit my strings very hard, like a caveman.

 

[nickgray]

I thought it was some tasty proprietary material that's better than regular plastic for tuning stability

It's plastic with PTFE. Some techs don't like them all that much either, apparently, I've seen complaints that they're soft, the material is inconsistent, and they're really expensive.

In any case, to my limited knowledge, the actual geometry of the nut is what matters, the material is not that important as long as it's good enough. Nuts have a massive effect on tuning stability, as well as playability (on the first few frets especially).

So if you ask me, I'd rather that they put in cheap nuts, but actually make them properly, instead of slapping some fancy graphite shit that does nothing because some strings bind on the slots. But what sells the guitar are specs and aesthetics. LTD locking tuners are shit, but it says "locking tuners" on the spec sheet, so it's all good. Macassar Ebony has the word Ebony in it, which is good, because ebony is better than rosewood. Doesn't matter that it's half heartedly stained and the they don't even bother to clean up after themselves (apparently, same issue with E-II as well - I've seen loads of complaints about stained fingers from new guitars).

 

[Dumple Stilzkin]

03B00148-2306-43AB-8E10-445D390AC6F3

• Dumple Stilzkin
• Apr 23, 2021

I quite like the Macassar ebony on my LTD 1007. Hopefully you can see in the picture, it is dark in some spots and lighter in others. This was before I conditioned it and it darkened up quite a bit.

 

[Hollowway]

eh, a nut is pretty cheap and easy replacement on the users end, at least compared to SS frets. If it helps them keep cost lower, I say it's a good choice since people like yourself now have the opportunity to upgrade to whatever nut material is more desirable than plastic. It definitely shouldn't be a deal breaker, at least I don't think so.

True, but NFW I’m upgrading an expensive guitar’s but because they reduced the prices for my by a few bucks. It’s not difficult, but it’s way more time consuming than I’d want it to be on a pricey guitar.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

they're really expensive

They're $12 MAP, and about half that wholesale.

 

[jco5055]

I know they are making the LTD Sammy star be a production model, but I wish ESP would bring back the Random star and make it like a regular model

 

[A.JohnHayes]

It's plastic with PTFE. Some techs don't like them all that much either, apparently, I've seen complaints that they're soft, the material is inconsistent, and they're really expensive.

In any case, to my limited knowledge, the actual geometry of the nut is what matters, the material is not that important as long as it's good enough. Nuts have a massive effect on tuning stability, as well as playability (on the first few frets especially).

So if you ask me, I'd rather that they put in cheap nuts, but actually make them properly, instead of slapping some fancy graphite shit that does nothing because some strings bind on the slots. But what sells the guitar are specs and aesthetics. LTD locking tuners are shit, but it says "locking tuners" on the spec sheet, so it's all good. Macassar Ebony has the word Ebony in it, which is good, because ebony is better than rosewood. Doesn't matter that it's half heartedly stained and the they don't even bother to clean up after themselves (apparently, same issue with E-II as well - I've seen loads of complaints about stained fingers from new guitars).

Thank you for that - I really appreciate it! I've lived a very sheltered life when it comes to gear; I know a lot about scale lengths, string tension, and what plectrums I like, but I know very little about things outside of that. That's good to know - the lack of Graphtech nuts has been a reason for me discounting a lot of nice LTDs, and now I know not to make too much of a stink out of it! I legitimately assumed they were significantly superior because it's what you see on most €1,500+ instruments, if it's not bone.

 

[nickgray]

the lack of Graphtech nuts has been a reason for me discounting a lot of nice LTDs

Huh, really? Assuming you have a decent tech nearby, a nut cut from a blank should cost you around $50-100. Even then, it's likely more than enough to just lower and slightly reshape the slots if needed, which should be included in the setup price (or just ask the tech to only shape the nut, forget the whole setup). In other words, it's really not economical to discount $1k instruments based on the nut.

They're $12 MAP, and about half that wholesale

Oh, I thought they were like $20. But they're still relatively expensive compared to bone, afaik. Not that it really matters to the end consumer though.

 

[Marked Man]

Can we talk about the fact that SS frets is freaking sweet, but plastic nuts on guitars in these price ranges is bananas.

Friends don't let friends do.....plastic.

Inconceivable.

 

[Marked Man]

Because the majority of people who are so overwhelmingly vocal about SS frets are internet spec-queens who buy import stuff with stacked spec sheets vs. high quality guitars that might not sound as up-market on paper and act like it means they're more "in the know" about these things...while complaining they can't setup their Floyds.

Careful, the spec queens may challenge you to a pillow fight!

 

[soul_lip_mike]

Because the majority of people who are so overwhelmingly vocal about SS frets are internet spec-queens who buy import stuff with stacked spec sheets vs. high quality guitars that might not sound as up-market on paper and act like it means they're more "in the know" about these things...while complaining they can't setup their Floyds.

Thats oddly specific

 

[Edika]

Speaking of nuts, fixed bridge and trems, after owning both I find trem gutiars more flexible for tuning changes. Sure you can't do them on the fly but there's more flexibility to setup vastly different tunings on an instrument vs a fixed nut that will need reshaping or replacing. And learning Floyd setup is not complicated. It might be a bit frustrating at first and some times annoying issues arise but I know I can take a guitar from E to B standard and then back to E just by changing the string guage and not having to replace a nut along the way. Unless I keep the same heavy gauge in E after I take it down from B.

 

[trem licking]

Speaking of nuts, fixed bridge and trems, after owning both I find trem gutiars more flexible for tuning changes. Sure you can't do them on the fly but there's more flexibility to setup vastly different tunings on an instrument vs a fixed nut that will need reshaping or replacing. And learning Floyd setup is not complicated. It might be a bit frustrating at first and some times annoying issues arise but I know I can take a guitar from E to B standard and then back to E just by changing the string guage and not having to replace a nut along the way. Unless I keep the same heavy gauge in E after I take it down from B.

Not having to file a nut ever is glorious

 

[bigsimpin]

Speaking of nuts, fixed bridge and trems, after owning both I find trem gutiars more flexible for tuning changes. Sure you can't do them on the fly but there's more flexibility to setup vastly different tunings on an instrument vs a fixed nut that will need reshaping or replacing. And learning Floyd setup is not complicated. It might be a bit frustrating at first and some times annoying issues arise but I know I can take a guitar from E to B standard and then back to E just by changing the string guage and not having to replace a nut along the way. Unless I keep the same heavy gauge in E after I take it down from B.

Yes! It took me awhile to realise this.

Why can't we have factory equipped locking fixed bridges, and factory lockable (or dive only) floating trems. The use case is there, and so many benefits, so why not give us the features?

 

[nickgray]

factory lockable (or dive only) floating trems

This one is genuinely insane. By far the biggest complaint about FRs is that they take "forever" to setup, they're a pain in the ass, and basically people just don't know any better. All of that is laughably easy to resolve - you block the trem in the cavity (the side towards the neck), and crank the spring tension a bit. That's it. It's a fixed bridge now. You can take of all the strings no problem. To get it back - simply retune and make sure to stretch the strings well, and just ease the spring tension until your block is loose. It'll get you 99% there.

So why in the world didn't any guitar or trem manufacturers include an easily installable block? To top it off, instead of that asinine spring claw, they could've easily used (for high end trem at least) a nicer design with a gear or something that you could turn with just one hex wrench, and it would move all of the springs. Schaller sells something quite similar. Ibanez came up with a semi-cool idea with their ZPS system. In addition, include a basic pressure gauge so that you'd know exactly when the block falls off, and how much pressure you need to add so that bends don't pull the trem up.

Another annoying thing is the string retainer bar. I might be missing something, but the whole purpose of the bar is to make the strings sit flush on the nut, so that when you clamp, the clamps don't push the strings, making them go sharp. But why the hell is the angle so steep on the nuts in the first place? You clamp the strings either way. Angled headstocks seem to be the norm for FR equipped guitars. I'm pretty sure I've seen Ibanez nuts without a retainer bar.

 

[gnoll]

I also hate the LTD plastic nuts and I would not buy those guitars ever. To me it's mostly about how it seems like they care more about cost cutting than making good instruments. Makes me lose respect for the brand really. Even if I could change the nut out, I don't want to.

 

[cardinal]

Speaking of nuts, fixed bridge and trems, after owning both I find trem gutiars more flexible for tuning changes. Sure you can't do them on the fly but there's more flexibility to setup vastly different tunings on an instrument vs a fixed nut that will need reshaping or replacing. And learning Floyd setup is not complicated. It might be a bit frustrating at first and some times annoying issues arise but I know I can take a guitar from E to B standard and then back to E just by changing the string guage and not having to replace a nut along the way. Unless I keep the same heavy gauge in E after I take it down from B.

When I spec'd out custom guitars, I wanted bolt-ons with Floyd Rose. Basically all aspects of the set up can be adjusted with just shimming something.

 

[/wrists]

03B00148-2306-43AB-8E10-445D390AC6F3

• Dumple Stilzkin
• Apr 23, 2021

I quite like the Macassar ebony on my LTD 1007. Hopefully you can see in the picture, it is dark in some spots and lighter in others. This was before I conditioned it and it darkened up quite a bit.

how did you darken it and can I see a pic of the result?