Mucho gracias señor. I think I'm honna leave it though. I kinda like the non-uniform mahogany showing.
Eve: A Guitar 3 Years in the Making (kind of...)
- Thread starter BlackMastodon
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Mucho gracias señor. I think I'm honna leave it though. I kinda like the non-uniform mahogany showing.
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Told you the blisters were bad 
.
Enough gross crap though, I'll get back to this later this week or next week maybe.
.Enough gross crap though, I'll get back to this later this week or next week maybe.
Pikka Bird
Vaya Con Cornholio
Agreed. Not widening it at all, just hitting the back edge with some sand paper so the thin strip of mahogany that's showing through will get connected to the areas coming around the hips. Or at least on the top side of it.
I think I may know what you guys are talking about now, and I like the idea. Do you mean to add more mahogany along this red line?
Sepultorture
Murder Machine
man, that mahogany showing through is ace, and yeah, a little more o the arm rest would be mint \m/
Pikka Bird
Vaya Con Cornholio
BlackMastodon: Yeah, exactly like that. It shouldn't take loads of work and will really tie it together beautifully.
Also, it will make the bit that's exposed on the rear look like it was on purpose, harr harr.
Also, it will make the bit that's exposed on the rear look like it was on purpose, harr harr.
It actually was on purpose
but I definitely see where you are coming from and I really like that idea. Thanks guys! I will get to that when I get to it, hopefully sooner than later. So I finally got around to staining the headstock of the neck and starting on the body again. I did both in black (second time for the body since I had to do a lot of sanding before) and then did the green on the headstock.
Unfortunately I didn't mask the sides of the headstock very well because it bled through like crazy in a few spots
. Hopefully that will sand out, but for today, I'm tired and don't really want to tear through my thumb again.
Unfortunately I didn't mask the sides of the headstock very well because it bled through like crazy in a few spots
. Hopefully that will sand out, but for today, I'm tired and don't really want to tear through my thumb again.So I finally got around to staining the headstock of the neck and starting on the body again. I did both in black (second time for the body since I had to do a lot of sanding before) and then did the green on the headstock.
Unfortunately I didn't mask the sides of the headstock very well because it bled through like crazy in a few spots
that green dye is sick dude!, thats like my dream color for a guitar.
I got a question about the grain on the sides and sanding.
Obviously, the grain of the mahogany is in this direction:
The way I have been sanding the sides is shown with the blue arrow in this pic:
But I realized that there are areas of the grain that run perpendicular to each other (at least I think so), most noticeably on the horns and the curves on the back.
So can anyone tell me which direction I should be sanding the sides? So far, I have just done it going lengthwise along the sides, but there are areas where that is going perpendicular to the grain and I'm not sure if I should be changing the direction of the sanding in those areas.
I know this might be a bit confusing but can anyone help me out?
Obviously, the grain of the mahogany is in this direction:
The way I have been sanding the sides is shown with the blue arrow in this pic:
But I realized that there are areas of the grain that run perpendicular to each other (at least I think so), most noticeably on the horns and the curves on the back.
So can anyone tell me which direction I should be sanding the sides? So far, I have just done it going lengthwise along the sides, but there are areas where that is going perpendicular to the grain and I'm not sure if I should be changing the direction of the sanding in those areas.
I know this might be a bit confusing but can anyone help me out?
Metal_Webb
Needs more strings
To get the best finish, make sure you sand with the grain for your final smooth off.
Sanding cross-grain results in scratches that are pretty hard to get out in the long run, avoid it if possible.
Sanding cross-grain results in scratches that are pretty hard to get out in the long run, avoid it if possible.
Yeah I've been trying to do that, and it's easy enough for the top and back. The problem is the sides when the grain changes orientation.
Metal_Webb
Needs more strings
And the the best things in life are never easy 
The last few weeks have been hella hectic with exams and moving (still don't have a proper work shop as it is cluttered with stuff right now 
) but now that that's all over I finally got a chance to work on her again.
Not a whole lot here 'cause it's bloody cold outside, just died the rest of the neck green to hide the spillover from the headstock. I tried to sand the green back as best I could but it was still showing in the grain so there was no way of hiding it. I can live with this though.
These shots came out more turquoise than green but the last couple show the actual colour a lot better:
This time I used an old white t-shirt to apply the dye instead of a sponge brush and it was waaaaaaaaay easier this time around. The sponge brush soaks up so much of the dye that it pours out a lot in certain spots and then you have to hurry and spread it around as best you can before it dries up. The old shirt/cloth method just gives you a lot more control as it lets you do multiple thin layers of the dye until you are satisfied with the colour. Might add a few more coats of the green to make it a bit more uniform.
) but now that that's all over I finally got a chance to work on her again.Not a whole lot here 'cause it's bloody cold outside, just died the rest of the neck green to hide the spillover from the headstock. I tried to sand the green back as best I could but it was still showing in the grain so there was no way of hiding it. I can live with this though.
These shots came out more turquoise than green but the last couple show the actual colour a lot better:
This time I used an old white t-shirt to apply the dye instead of a sponge brush and it was waaaaaaaaay easier this time around. The sponge brush soaks up so much of the dye that it pours out a lot in certain spots and then you have to hurry and spread it around as best you can before it dries up. The old shirt/cloth method just gives you a lot more control as it lets you do multiple thin layers of the dye until you are satisfied with the colour. Might add a few more coats of the green to make it a bit more uniform.
Augury
f*ckin bow down!
What are those screw holes for? Tremolo system or smth?
Yeah, locking nut.
UPDATE
Finally....
The snow from the weekend melted and it was actually +9 degrees C outside so I jumped at the chance to sand the black off of the body earlier today so I can get this thing rolling again.
Here she is sanded back:
Ready for green:
My brother's Warmoth Strat got it's black coat as well:
Aaaaaaaaand here's mine after I put the green on:
The filler didn't turn out too bad, it will mostly be covered by the knobs anyway.
Also added a liiiiiiiiiittle bit more green to the neck:
Sorry for the lack of natural light but yeah that's all for today I guess.
NOW, on to business.
First order of business: Should I dye the sides of the headstock black where the flame maple is to make the faux-binding look pop out more?
Second order of business: A couple days ago I test fit the pickups and neck into the body just to see if it was all copacetic; it was not. The carve on the lower horn went a bit too deep so if I use pickup rings then the neck one will hang over by about a quarter inch on the corner. Solution: we are going direct mount.
Which brings me to Order number 3.
Third order of business: How should I go about mounting the pickups to the body? Are there small T-bolts (similar to the ones some people have used for their necks) that I can use for the pickups? Or will it be OK to just use a small pilot hole in the wood and put some foam under each pickup? Also, how big should the springs be?
Finally....
The snow from the weekend melted and it was actually +9 degrees C outside so I jumped at the chance to sand the black off of the body earlier today so I can get this thing rolling again.
Here she is sanded back:
Ready for green:
My brother's Warmoth Strat got it's black coat as well:
Aaaaaaaaand here's mine after I put the green on:
The filler didn't turn out too bad, it will mostly be covered by the knobs anyway.
Also added a liiiiiiiiiittle bit more green to the neck:
Sorry for the lack of natural light but yeah that's all for today I guess.
NOW, on to business.
First order of business: Should I dye the sides of the headstock black where the flame maple is to make the faux-binding look pop out more?
Second order of business: A couple days ago I test fit the pickups and neck into the body just to see if it was all copacetic; it was not. The carve on the lower horn went a bit too deep so if I use pickup rings then the neck one will hang over by about a quarter inch on the corner. Solution: we are going direct mount.
Which brings me to Order number 3.Third order of business: How should I go about mounting the pickups to the body? Are there small T-bolts (similar to the ones some people have used for their necks) that I can use for the pickups? Or will it be OK to just use a small pilot hole in the wood and put some foam under each pickup? Also, how big should the springs be?
scherzo1928
has wood for you
Great to see this going again.
As for the questions:
1-no need to dye the edge of the maple for the binding... flame will be very obvious one it's got some finishing on it. Or maybe I'm understanding it wrong. do you want a natural binding? Or are you thinking of a black binding, hence the black dye?
3- You could actually mount them directly into the guitar, BUT I'd sugest using some small metal inserts like these.
The one in the pic is waaay bigger than what you need though, or I would have posted a link, haha. Or even plastic ones if you can't find any metal inserts.
As for the questions:
1-no need to dye the edge of the maple for the binding... flame will be very obvious one it's got some finishing on it. Or maybe I'm understanding it wrong. do you want a natural binding? Or are you thinking of a black binding, hence the black dye?
3- You could actually mount them directly into the guitar, BUT I'd sugest using some small metal inserts like these.
The one in the pic is waaay bigger than what you need though, or I would have posted a link, haha. Or even plastic ones if you can't find any metal inserts.
Great to see this going again.
As for the questions:
1-no need to dye the edge of the maple for the binding... flame will be very obvious one it's got some finishing on it. Or maybe I'm understanding it wrong. do you want a natural binding? Or are you thinking of a black binding, hence the black dye?
3- You could actually mount them directly into the guitar, BUT I'd sugest using some small metal inserts like these.
The one in the pic is waaay bigger than what you need though, or I would have posted a link, haha. Or even plastic ones if you can't find any metal inserts.
Awesome, I'll take a look around the interwebs for some small inserts and what not.
As for the headstock question, I'm not sure if I should leave it alone or dye the sides of the flame maple black so that it looks kind of like black binding.
