EVH 5150 III 50W vs LBX 1 => which best for bedroom level ?

Rubbishplayer

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I think a lot of the tonal changes can be compensated for with an EQ in the loop, as long as you are not talking power amp distortion, like with a Plexi. I actually dont like most amps turned up. I dont like power amp breakup.

If you start talking a reactive load into a solid state poweramp to reamp back into cabs, then it is even closer. You can have the amp as loud as you want, with as low of volume as you want.

I actually think the limiting factor are the speakers, because speakers like V30 do seem to have a "kick in' point with volume where they dont sound right until you cross that threshold at very low volumes. They don't linearly increase in volumes as much as FRFR speakers.
While I suspect few people will debate the coolness of cruising at 15mph down South Beach in a Ferrari, that's not primarily what it was built for.

Sure, any decent 50w valve amp will make a cool (if excessive) bedroom amp for clean sounds. But frankly, unless you plan then to take it out on gigs and crank it into the zone, you might aswell get a decent Line6 amp, which will give you that, plus the cranked sounds.
 

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budda

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I don't think most modern amps sound better turned up. It might sound better "because volume" but that's a different thing. Put a mic in front of it, record it at different volumes and match the levels of the recordings. A cranked 5150 isn't gonna sound good. It's not a Marshall.

My philosophy is:

1) Bigger amps sound bigger, and better.

2) Ability to sound good at low volume comes down to the design of the amp and volume tapers. Not wattage.
*This post is not a disagreement with the quote*

Define “turned up” though. Most modern amps do not rely on power amp saturation for their tone (hence my saying preamp gain is what most SSO users are probably using). A 5150 on 2 sounds different than a 5150 on .5 (tv level) though and the power amp is doing some lifting at that point (not a ton).

for the sake of these threads, i think an explanation of our versions of “cranked” is required. I had a peavey 5150. I would say it was cranked at 3 on the master - thats band or gig levels. I suspect if I still owned it that it wouldnt get much more volume on crunch and lead settings as the master went up from there, just more compressed.

I would use the term “dimed” to mean “on 10” or “maxed out”.

I used to be diehard “bigger sound is better” but the amount of recordings and touring with 30-50w amps that are iconic is not to be underestimated. I have cornered this by buying 30, 50w and 100w heads :lol:.

Point #2 is dead on.

And talking how the amp handles volumes ignores the imo more important factor of speaker, number of speakers, cabinet, number of cabinets, and dimensions. Modelling allows us plebes to really learn that what feels great in the room doesnt guarantee a great feel mic’d up.

I ran a mesa roadster with a mesa 112 to jam in a shed. Sounded fine. Sounded totally different at not much louder levels but into a 412. :shrug:

I stand by my point that a modeller is the best solution for quieter use cases. Cooking tubes faster with a load box or attenuator seems like a great way to spend a lot of money instead of acknowledge its the wrong tool for the job, but then some people have money :lol:. Ymwv.

Maybe my marshall monday post will be insanely quiet amps :lol:
 

gnoll

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*This post is not a disagreement with the quote*

Define “turned up” though. Most modern amps do not rely on power amp saturation for their tone (hence my saying preamp gain is what most SSO users are probably using). A 5150 on 2 sounds different than a 5150 on .5 (tv level) though and the power amp is doing some lifting at that point (not a ton).

for the sake of these threads, i think an explanation of our versions of “cranked” is required. I had a peavey 5150. I would say it was cranked at 3 on the master - thats band or gig levels. I suspect if I still owned it that it wouldnt get much more volume on crunch and lead settings as the master went up from there, just more compressed.

I would use the term “dimed” to mean “on 10” or “maxed out”.

I used to be diehard “bigger sound is better” but the amount of recordings and touring with 30-50w amps that are iconic is not to be underestimated. I have cornered this by buying 30, 50w and 100w heads :lol:.

Point #2 is dead on.

And talking how the amp handles volumes ignores the imo more important factor of speaker, number of speakers, cabinet, number of cabinets, and dimensions. Modelling allows us plebes to really learn that what feels great in the room doesnt guarantee a great feel mic’d up.

I ran a mesa roadster with a mesa 112 to jam in a shed. Sounded fine. Sounded totally different at not much louder levels but into a 412. :shrug:

I stand by my point that a modeller is the best solution for quieter use cases. Cooking tubes faster with a load box or attenuator seems like a great way to spend a lot of money instead of acknowledge its the wrong tool for the job, but then some people have money :lol:. Ymwv.

Maybe my marshall monday post will be insanely quiet amps :lol:

Yeah it's loud at 3. But I think it already sounds good at lower than that. You know the point where the tubes start working and the treble comes in? I don't think it sounds *bad* there, it's just an awkward volume because it's too loud for late night practice but not loud enough for a band or anything like that.

And then yeah like you say it's about all the other aspects of volume also, not just how the amp works.

I suppose one shouldn't generalize too much, and smaller amps can sound good. It's just, if I want the big sound then I want the big sound, damn it, and 50W isn't enough if I can have 100+.

I think the modeler thing is fair and fine and all, it just ends up being a preference thing. If you like all the stuff that comes with a real tube amp, it's hard to feel content with digital stuff.

If I just wanted something that's convenient and sounds good, yeah maybe Fractal. If I wanted the tube amp thing, then a big one (that sounds good turned down if that's important). Personally the thing I wouldn't get is a lunchbox amp because they don't seem to have the sound I want.
 

CanserDYI

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As someone who regularly cranks his 5150, volume is the ticket. And no, not diming it, but getting to 4 or 5 on the volume knob the harmonics and overtones jump out at you, the sustain goes for days, the low end crushes. Sure I play it at low volumes sometimes, but 99% of the time if I'm playing low volume, it's with my helix. Because it sounds like my 5150 roaring at mouse fart volumes.
 

budda

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@gnoll you’ve watched i think @Guitarjon video with single dual and triple rec? Sometimes the extra headroom doesnt actually get the desired tone (i knew i didnt mind single rec, was very surprised in that vid specifically).

+1 to “no lunchboxes” get a smallbox instead (looks at his jtm-45 :wub:)

If a modeller was only convenient but didnt sound great, I would simply not own that modeller. Thats why i have an axe3 and not the helix LT I started with (which has since seen updates fwiw).

I dont like the stuff that comes with a tube amp (more cables, maintenance, higher risk of damage, noise floor, weight) I only bought some because the look inspires me to play more (usually with modeller) and I refuse to overpay so only went for known goods at sane prices.

Whenever I get a pedalbaby to try with the axe I will probably a/b with my tube rigs for fun, but any “real gear” is because I could and not at all required. Boredom buys and neurodivergent tunnel vision are real things :lol:.
 

EdgeCrusher

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The EVH 5150 III 50 watt sounds great at low volumes; better than the original Peaveys, which needed to be cranked louder in my experience (I've owned both). The volume taper on the Peavey 5150/6505+ is also more difficult to dial in.

The EVH just doesn't really rely on power tube saturation like many other amps, such as older Marshalls, do. I have the volume at .5 on my 50 watt EVH into a 2x12 cab, and it sounds fine for bedroom or apartment playing. I also send the preamp out to a NuX Solid Studio to load an IR and power amp amp simulation direct to studio monitors for recording or for a stereo sound to fill the room a bit. Works perfect and sounds great. I agree that cranking the amp sounds great as well, but it is not absolutely necessary with this amp IMO.
 
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