First partscaster from a unfinished body. Need advice on centering pickguard.

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complex-barb.0t

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Ok so I have finally after many weeks of ordering parts and waiting to have a body painted I have everything. I am just a bit unsure on how to accurately align the pick guard to drill the holes. Got any tips? Also what size should I be drilling the holes to? Multiple sources say different sizes. Also anybody try those self-centering drill bits used for cabinetry? That seems like the way to go.

I also need to drill the strap locks, but that seems more straight forward.
 
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Is the pickguard just an aesthetic cover or it does hold the electronic stuff like pots, switches and pickups?

If the second,
1 - place the pickguard (with the electronics, pots, pickups and switches) over the guitar,
2 - string the low and high strings to tension (it should be enough, but you can put all the strings if you like), pitch is irrelevant. The strings will act as rulers/guides
3 - align the pickups with the strings using their coil poles, since they're locked to the pickguard, this will move
4 - clamp the pickguard in place or use double sided tape.
5 - mark and drill the desired holes with or without the pickguard on the guitar body.

It's about that.
 

complex-barb.0t

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Is the pickguard just an aesthetic cover or it does hold the electronic stuff like pots, switches and pickups?

If the second,
1 - place the pickguard (with the electronics, pots, pickups and switches) over the guitar,
2 - string the low and high strings to tension (it should be enough, but you can put all the strings if you like), pitch is irrelevant. The strings will act as rulers/guides
3 - align the pickups with the strings using their coil poles, since they're locked to the pickguard, this will move
4 - clamp the pickguard in place or use double sided tape.
5 - mark and drill the desired holes with or without the pickguard on the guitar body.

It's about that.
Yeah it’s a strat pickguard that holds the pots and pickups, etc. Putting on the strings is a good idea.

Any clue on what size holes to drill? I want to know before I order some self centering drill bits to make the job super easy.
 

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MaxOfMetal

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You base the hole size on the screws you plan on using.

Most Fender Spec stuff is 1/2" #4 round head screws.

You'll want to drill the pilot hole based on that size and the type of bit you're using.
 

complex-barb.0t

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You base the hole size on the screws you plan on using.

Most Fender Spec stuff is 1/2" #4 round head screws.

You'll want to drill the pilot hole based on that size and the type of bit you're using.
Thanks! Just dawned on me my pickguard screws are labeled “3mm”. I went ahead and got the #4-1/2” screws. The partscaster is all US fender specs measurement wise.

Now the last question I wonder is what is a #4 drill bit? 3/32” or 5/64”…. I see both mentioned. I guess it all depends on how tight you want the hole depending on the hardness of the wood. The body I am using is mahogany. I can always just buy a set of the self centering drill bits and just step up until I find the size that works. Best to not over think it haha.
 
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A few questions to save time when buying screws...
1 - Is the pickguard already drilled, meaning does it already has the holes for the screws?
2 - Are the holes beveled, so to embed the screws' heads or are they flat with pickguard's surface?
- If the first option is true, look for lentil head screws
- If the second options is true, look for flat head screws
- The first option is better because with the screws' heads embedded, they'll be almost unnoticeable by touch when playing.
- You can create a beveled screw hole with a philips point screw driver for example.
 

complex-barb.0t

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A few questions to save time when buying screws...
1 - Is the pickguard already drilled, meaning does it already has the holes for the screws?
2 - Are the holes beveled, so to embed the screws' heads or are they flat with pickguard's surface?
- If the first option is true, look for lentil head screws
- If the second options is true, look for flat head screws
- The first option is better because with the screws' heads embedded, they'll be almost unnoticeable by touch when playing.
- You can create a beveled screw hole with a philips point screw driver for example.
The strat body I have has no pickguard or strap button holes drilled. I will have to do that part myself.
 

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This may be obvious but I'll just add here that whenever I'm preparing to drill into something ( like to create a pilot hole) and there is no room for error, I'll use something sharp/ conical like a small nail or something similar to either press or tap where I've got my hole marked ( depends on how hard or soft the material is that you're going to drill into). But yeah... I'll create a little "divot" to ensure that when I go to drill my hole, that the drill bit doesn't start walking or jumping around for any reason.
 

RevDrucifer

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FWIW I drilled mine when I had the neck and bridge on, then eyeballed it.

Also, don’t screw the screws in as tight as they’ll go at first, let the pickguard chill a week, it’ll flatten out on it’s own and then you can tighten the screws.
 

Soya

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Thanks! Just dawned on me my pickguard screws are labeled “3mm”. I went ahead and got the #4-1/2” screws. The partscaster is all US fender specs measurement wise.

Now the last question I wonder is what is a #4 drill bit? 3/32” or 5/64”…. I see both mentioned. I guess it all depends on how tight you want the hole depending on the hardness of the wood. The body I am using is mahogany. I can always just buy a set of the self centering drill bits and just step up until I find the size that works. Best to not over think it haha.
You want a pilot drill bit to be the size of the shank of the screw but not the threads, you can eyeball this by holding the drill bit in front of the screw, if you can see threads on either side of the drill bit then you're good. If using a jobber drill bit, center punch the hole with a sharp awl. Otherwise a brad point bit will work well to keep itself centered. Or use a drill press heh.
 
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Luckily it does. It’s a Jim Root strat pickguard. I believe 11 holes.
ok, then do as previously suggested, place the pickguard over the body with at least the pickups on it. String at least the low and the high strings to tension so they can work as rulers. Align the pickups with the strings, clamp the pickguard or use double sided tape, mark the pickguard's holes in the guitar's body with a point of some sort and work the holes as you feel better. Pickguard screws (small, wood and auto-threading type) don't need much of a pilot hole, but it helps. A small in diameter drill bit does the job.
 

gclef

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Is the pickguard just an aesthetic cover or it does hold the electronic stuff like pots, switches and pickups?

If the second,
1 - place the pickguard (with the electronics, pots, pickups and switches) over the guitar,
2 - string the low and high strings to tension (it should be enough, but you can put all the strings if you like), pitch is irrelevant. The strings will act as rulers/guides
3 - align the pickups with the strings using their coil poles, since they're locked to the pickguard, this will move
4 - clamp the pickguard in place or use double sided tape.
5 - mark and drill the desired holes with or without the pickguard on the guitar body.

It's about that.
You forgot to mention to check neck aligment first thing after you string up the e strings.

Not doing this can throw off PG alignment
 
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You forgot to mention to check neck aligment first thing after you string up the e strings.

Not doing this can throw off PG alignment
You're right. Since I never had problems with that I forget about that detail. Maybe it's my guitars, maybe I'm lucky...?
 
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