Floyd Rose spring settings

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DimMak

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I recent went from a 37mm regular floyd block to a 32mm fat brass because I could fit the cover on the 37mm. It sounds much better but the springs have less leverage now because of the shorter block. I also went from 9-42s to 9-46s.

This is how my springs look, it stays in tune and the bars feels right. I just wonder if having it angled like this could be bad. I have some more springs on the way to experiment.

Is this because of the 9-46s? Heavier on bottom/lighter on top?
 

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Hollowway

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Did you angle the claw that way after installing the new block? I generally get the claw symmetric. (OK, I ALWAYS get it symmetric, and then lie awake in bed at night wondering if it's perfectly symmetric, because I'm OCD, lol.). I'm not sure that it makes a huge difference, but I'm curious why you set it like that. Hybrid slinkys, or whatever strings you have that are slightly heavier on the bass side, will make no difference to the springs. Remember that people use 8 string Floyds, too, which can have wildly different tension between the bass and treble side. But the tension is great enough across all of the strings that effectively it just keeps the knife edges on the posts.

I would think that in, this case, you could either A) loosen the bass side claw, and then run the outside springs to the positions 2 and 4 on the claw, or B) tighten the treble side claw for symmetry. (Again, not that it's likely to make any difference. But at least I'll be able to sleep tonight.)
 

DimMak

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Did you angle the claw that way after installing the new block? I generally get the claw symmetric. (OK, I ALWAYS get it symmetric, and then lie awake in bed at night wondering if it's perfectly symmetric, because I'm OCD, lol.). I'm not sure that it makes a huge difference, but I'm curious why you set it like that. Hybrid slinkys, or whatever strings you have that are slightly heavier on the bass side, will make no difference to the springs. Remember that people use 8 string Floyds, too, which can have wildly different tension between the bass and treble side. But the tension is great enough across all of the strings that effectively it just keeps the knife edges on the posts.

I would think that in, this case, you could either A) loosen the bass side claw, and then run the outside springs to the positions 2 and 4 on the claw, or B) tighten the treble side claw for symmetry. (Again, not that it's likely to make any difference. But at least I'll be able to sleep tonight.)
I use a skyscaper block, loosen the springs, use the block to hold the trem, tune, them little by little tighten the springs till the block falls out. You can feel what each side of the claw does if you gently feel the skyscraper block. Once the block falls out you tune the guitar the last little bit by adjusting the claw screws.

Im going to keep messing with it for sure. I would think I should be able to get it symmetrical.
 

Hollowway

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I use a skyscaper block, loosen the springs, use the block to hold the trem, tune, them little by little tighten the springs till the block falls out. You can feel what each side of the claw does if you gently feel the skyscraper block. Once the block falls out you tune the guitar the last little bit by adjusting the claw screws.

Im going to keep messing with it for sure. I would think I should be able to get it symmetrical.
That’s actually a good way of doing it, but I don’t do that at all. :lol: I just keep the claw parallel to the block/route, and adjust it symmetrically when I tune/change strings, etc. Your way is probably better, but I’m not sure if the difference in tension across the block makes a difference in feel or longevity of the knife edges, etc.
 

DimMak

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delete too many tabs open posted in wrong thread
 
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