GSR206! Halp me make it bestest

[bobsbarricades]

Really it's great, it's just I'm a nitpicky SOB

1 - I'd like to get the action a bit lower but the frets buzz buzz buzz. I think it needs to get the frets redressed but before I do that is there a way to be sure before I fork over the dosh to get it done?

2 - the high c doesn't seem to put enough pressure on the bridge saddle - what's with that?

3 - I can't seem to actually get the bridge saddles forward enough to get the intonation right. The screws actually come out before I can get it right. Crazy right? I imagine if I raised the saddles it would be ok, but really that's the opposite of good...so what does a guy do?

4 - are there any decent string-through-body bridges that aren't more than the $150 I grabbed the bass for?

Thanks!

 

[LordCashew]

1 - I'd like to get the action a bit lower but the frets buzz buzz buzz. I think it needs to get the frets redressed but before I do that is there a way to be sure before I fork over the dosh to get it done?

It sounds like the fretwork is the limiting factor here, but double-check your neck relief just in case. If you push a string down at the first and last frets there should be a little space between the strings and the frets in the middle of the neck.

If that's fine, you could check the levelness of the frets with a small straightedge. You'd need to take off all the strings and set the neck perfectly straight with the truss rod. Then the straightedge will high-center and "rock" on any high frets.

There are setup guides you could find with Google if you want more detailed instructions and measurements for this kind of stuff.

2 - the high c doesn't seem to put enough pressure on the bridge saddle - what's with that?

You could adjust the neck angle upward with a shim - that way you'd need to raise all the saddles to maintain your current string height. But is there really an issue with tone or sustain on your high C? If it's not noticeable plugged in I certainly wouldn't worry about it on a $150 bass.

3 - I can't seem to actually get the bridge saddles forward enough to get the intonation right. The screws actually come out before I can get it right. Crazy right? I imagine if I raised the saddles it would be ok, but really that's the opposite of good...so what does a guy do?

Sometimes if you turn the screws they don't actually move the saddles, especially if you're tuned to pitch. You might have to tap on the head of the screw to overcome the string tension and push the saddle forward. Otherwise you'd need to look at relocating the bridge. But I doubt that the bridge placement is the issue on such a common, mass-produced instrument unless you have a really unusual set of strings.

4 - are there any decent string-through-body bridges that aren't more than the $150 I grabbed the bass for?

Don't bother. I've converted a bass to string-through and it made no discernible difference. In no way was it worth the hassle.

Look at it this way: your $150 bass + $100ish bridge + $20ish ferrules = $270ish.

$270 + $100 worth of hassle to drill and install string-through ferrules = $370.

$370 = price of used SR506. A better instrument would be the way to go when you're ready to upgrade IMHO. No hassle necessary.

 

[bobsbarricades]

Thanks for the reply!

It sounds like the fretwork is the limiting factor here, but double-check your neck relief just in case.

This makes me remember watching Meshuggah's tech do this on his guitar so I'll look into that and find my Eberle book. Thanks!

You could adjust the neck angle upward with a shim - that way you'd need to raise all the saddles to maintain your current string height. But is there really an issue with tone or sustain on your high C? If it's not noticeable plugged in I certainly wouldn't worry about it on a $150 bass.

What do you mean adjust the neck angle upward with a shim? Unfortunately it's a big problem because the string is just sort of sitting in midair and which means intonation is absolutely impossible if I want to lower my action.

Sometimes if you turn the screws they don't actually move the saddles, especially if you're tuned to pitch.

Actually I detune a couple turns and lift the strings off the saddles when I adjust them. The saddles are literally so far forward that the screw isn't long enough to stay screwed in. =( There was a bit of reflief that I've been getting out and I think that might help a little. I don't know if basses are like guitar's in this respect but I usually have a wee bit of releif on my guitars because I have a tendency to dig in @_@ Having two truss rods in this thing makes me feel like some real experiences lutherior might be able to work some kind of magic but me...hahaha just shooting for straight.

Don't bother. I've converted a bass to string-through and it made no discernible difference. In no way was it worth the hassle.

Yea there was a 406 a guy was selling but it was $350 and he wouldn't go down. Hopefully I can figure these bridge issues out. Repositioning doesn't sound like fun at all to achieve lower action. The high C thing is frustrating because the upper 2 or 3 strings is where I want the action lowest for fun chord stuff and weird pull offs and all that.

thanks again!

 

[stevexc]

What gauge strings are you using? Can we get some clear pictures of the bridge to see what's up with the high C? Can you get the measurement from the nut to the saddle?

 

[LordCashew]

What do you mean adjust the neck angle upward with a shim? Unfortunately it's a big problem because the string is just sort of sitting in midair and which means intonation is absolutely impossible if I want to lower my action.

I mean putting a shim in the neck pocket, raising the side closer to the bridge. That would tilt the whole neck in the direction that would lower string height, and you'd need to raise all of the saddles to compensate. This is actually a pretty common procedure on bolt-neck instruments, though I've never heard of it being done on an Ibanez Soundgear.

I don't know if basses are like guitar's in this respect but I usually have a wee bit of releif on my guitars because I have a tendency to dig in @_@ Having two truss rods in this thing makes me feel like some real experiences lutherior might be able to work some kind of magic but me...hahaha just shooting for straight.

You definitely want some relief. More than on a guitar, generally. As long as your neck isn't already twisted, you'll probably do fine adjusting the truss rods as long as you adjust both the same amount.

I also want to see some pics of what's going on here. If what you're describing stems from actual build issues, it sounds more like an SS.org "custom gone wrong" than the kind of thing you'd see on a production Ibanez. Hopefully it's just some simple thing we're all missing.