[Help] Choosing string gauge for Jackson JS328Q

[-The Black Halo-]

Pls avoid any unnecessary discussions on why it's a 26.5'' guitar. It is arguably the right size for my hands (atleast when it comes to playing absurdly wide chords on the lower frets) (and my first 8)

Greetings,

To the topic, I am using a D'addario's exl 140-8 (0.010-0.074 in) at the moment. Guitar is tuned to F#BEADGBE.

Unusually tight A and D strings but I have gotten used to them. The tensions in the low/high B and E strings are near perfect. But the tension in F# is abysmal. Playable, but it's a flubbery piece of brrrraaoooowwww.

No way can I ever hope to riff or play triplets tightly on F#, having spent quite some time to alter my right and left hand technique on that 8th string. So, I resorted to using that low F# to generate some in-between bass lines or some slow palm muted chugs.

The tensions were even displayed on the back of the product (or from the online site).

1. EXL 140-8
D'Addario Strings : XL Nickel Round Wound : EXL140-8 Nickel Wound, 8-String, Light Top/Heavy Bottom, 10-74

I honestly expected that heavy bottom translated to more tension in the lower strings.

Then there is this new series-
2. NY XL 1074 (said to be calibrated for 27'' scale lengths)
D'Addario Strings : NYXL : NYXL1074 Nickel Wound 8-String Electric Guitar Strings, Light Top / Heavy Bottom, 10-74

So, by some stroke of divine magic this tension setting is appropriate from the looks.

Q1 : How come with such minute diameter differences did the tension setting in the 8th string nearly double?

By the same logic, if the exl-140-8 was calibrated for a 25.5'' scale length(don't know for sure regarding scale length), a similar tension pattern should follow. That is the low F# will have nearly the same setting as the low E.

Can anyone shed some light on this? I don't mind maths and physics if need be.

I am also considering (additional thoughts welcome):

3. NY XL 0980 ( calibrated for a 30'' scale .... )
D'Addario Strings : NYXL : NYXL0980 Nickel Wound 8-String Electric Guitar Strings, Super Light, 09-80

Q2 : So, any users out there with 26.5'' 8 string Jacksons or Schecters? Which sets do you use? I live in India and 8 string sets are a rarity. If they are available, they don't come cheap.
These above 3 sets are available in India. (might as well send a mail to daddario above, but would like some foresight)

I've heard great about Kalium (Circle K), DR and the likes but shipping them overseas along with customs is something I don't want to deal with.

 

[Nlelith]

Q1 : How come with such minute diameter differences did the tension setting in the 8th string nearly double?

It's a mistake in a chart. All other strings in those sets are nearly the same tension, but 8th in a NYXL shows completely wrong numbers. That chart shows that .74 at 27" scale will have more tension than .80 at 30"... doesn't make any sense.

I think you should buy NYXL0980. I usually order custom string sets to match my preferences, but that particular set? It's exactly what I'd use for 26.5" scale tuned F#BEADGBE.

 

[Action]

I agree with you about the set you're using now being too tight on A and D and too loose on F#. 80 is a good F# for your scale length. Hope that helps.

 

[exo]

The NYXL 9-80 set is probably the "best" overall readily available mass market set out there. If you aren't assembling your own preferred gauges from singles , it's the way to go. I'm playing in drop E, and for me it's ever so slightly sloppier on the lowest string than I'd really prefer, but ABSOLUTELY playable. I have no problems whatsoever with triplets/trem picked stuff. Just my $.02........

 

[Go To Bed Jessica]

I used the Curt Mangan 9-84 set for drop E on a 26.5" scale and it was the best string set I ever had on that guitar, by a considerable margin.

74 for F# or low E is an absolute joke.

 

[-The Black Halo-]

Thank you very much!

I shall get my guitar setup with a 9-80. And a final set of questions.

Do I require a new nut (for my guitar) ?

Will there be any major problems switching to and fro, in between the F# and E on the 8th string ?
( I am hopeful that is stays more or less intonated on the F# after a setup, like it did for you guys)

(And just the way we used to do drop D on a 6 stringer, on a standard tuning with a 10-46 set, for some impromptu lamb of god jams with the broz )

Because I am still getting accustomed to using notes from the F# , but a drop E, damn, that makes things a tad bit easier to build some really smooth and massive chords with another low E.

 

[Go To Bed Jessica]

You shouldn't need a new nut, but the one you have will need a bit of work. Best option is to take it to a good tech and have it cut for your strings. Cheapest option is to the use strings themselves as files to widen (widen only - not deepen) the nut slots. The string should sit snugly in the slot but be able to slide back and forth through the slot with minimal resistance.

Lubricating the nut slots can also help with keeping the guitar in tune by allowing freedom of movement. Some people just apply a layer of graphite to the inside of the slot with a drawing pencil, some people buy pre-made stuff like Big Bends Nut Sauce and I like to make a little mixture of graphite shavings from a pencil and vaseline. Use a toothpick to apply a little blob inside each slot.

You should be able to swing between F# and drop E easily enough.

My tiny guitarist brain could never deal with the low string being an F#, so I pretty much immediately went to drop E and stayed there. Extended chords are one of the great joys of playing ERG.

Happy experimenting!