Help: making brass trem block smaller?

[synrgy]

Hey all,

I posted a thread a little while back with a project/ngd where I installed a graph tech LB63 in an Ibby 350. I asked about this in that thread but I think it flew under the radqr cause I posted it as an ngd thread. I can't find information on the net at large about this, but I may not be asking the right question.

It was hard to get pictures illustrating the problem, but here are a couple:

Basically, the brass trem block is too "tall", almost sticking out of the body when the trem is level, and *definitely* sticking out of the body when I pull up on the trem arm.

How do I go about making it shorter? Sanding block + a certain grit? I thought I could try this dremel bit that I have, but I worry about how I will keep it level:

Has anyone out there done this before?

 

[vansinn]

Reducing the current block may take some tone/sustain off, because of less resulting mass.
I would make an all-new toneblock being less high and somewhat thicker, using either brass or zinc. Sure, to accomodate the fatter block this will require a Bit more routing on both sides of the cavity, but IMO that's a small prize to pay..

 

[Rusti]

Hi, i had the same problem with mine.
I fixed the brass part between the vise leaving out of it only the part i wanted to cut and i worked it with an angle grinder.
I was in just in a hurry to cut it and il looks a bit raw but you can simply finish it with a file or some sandpaper

 

[synrgy]

Muchas, muchas gracias for the input! +rep to you!!

Anybody else?

 

[Customisbetter]

if you have a dremel and a cutting wheel, you can cut channels through the spring holes, so the springs set lower into the holes.

unless the block is sticking out of the body of course.

 

[synrgy]

unless the block is sticking out of the body of course.

It is, which was kind of the point of my posting this thread.

 

[Customisbetter]

oh i usually find that springs stick out too far.

my bad dude.

 

[Digideus]

Has anyone out there done this before?

Doug at Black Machine was looking into this very problem so he could offer Floyds as an option on his axes. Dunno if he ever had time to do it. Maybe send him an Email?

In theory, it looks quite straightforward, but, obviously, the tension block and spring retainer will need some adjustment if the block size is made smaller. That's my take on it anyway. Ive never done it so I could be wrong! I did once swap the block with one from a different model to get around this problem. Have you tried Fender spares? They may sell this as a part.

 

[synrgy]

It's all a learning experience, right?

Graph Tech's website did not have a lot of information back when I originally purchased this thing. Last night I found they had some new information up, like hard specs on the dimensions of the trem itself. The block of the trem is 37mm, so I'm now thinking I can probably just swap it with a 32mm block and be done with it. It just wasn't until last night's research that I was finally able to find information on how (easily) one can remove/replace a trem block. Having never fully disassembled a Floyd in the past, I ignorantly thought that the block was more or less permanently 'fused' to the bridge plate and would require special tools I don't have to remove. Lesson learned!! SO, I will tackle this when I swap the pickups/pickguard.

On a related note, I'll have a spare 37mm brass block soon, if anyone needs one.

Thanks again for the input. Was much appreciated.

 

[synrgy]

I'm stuck -- again -- and I'm ready to hurt somebody.

Graph Tech *SWEARS* that the LB63 tremolo is built to OFR specs.

ProRockGear (from whom I ordered the replacement block) *SWEARS* that their parts are built to OFR specs.

Guess what? The replacement block from ProRockGear doesn't fit the Graph Tech assembly. Shocker!! The sustain block screws from Graph Tech are too small for the ProRockGear sustain block, and the ProRockGear screws are too large fore the Graph Tech assembly.

So pissed off right now. I can't order a 32mm block built to GraphTech specs because they don't make them, and apparently I can't use a 32mm block built to OFR specs because it won't fit the GraphTech assembly. I'm screwed, basically.

*edit* can somebody here help me figure out which one of the companies is LYING to us about their specs? I don't own any OFR tremolos, so I can't compare what I have to them to find out for myself. I just know that at least one (if not both) of these companies is obviously full of shit when they say their parts are built to OFR specs, so I want to know which one it is.

 

[jymellis]

i would use the dremmel. make that thing fit!

 

[synrgy]

i would use the dremmel. make that thing fit!

I'm going to have to. I don't see what other choice I have. It's either:

A) Grind down the 37mm sustain block to 32mm size
or
B) make the holes of the LB63's base plate large enough to accommodate the OFR sized sustain block screws for the replacement 32mm block.

Either way is going to SUCK ASS and I'm *really* upset that I have to even consider doing either, unless somebody with a bigger brain that mine is able to see an alternate solution?

 

[avenger]

Just cut the block down it really doesnt seem to hard. Lock it into something make your line and grind it down.

 

[wannabguitarist]

I think by OFR specs they mean it is similar quality (I'm pretty sure they're using Gotoh floyds) and it will fit in an OFR route with no modifications.

I'd just file the old one down to size

 

[TomParenteau]

Find somebody with a belt sander.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Just cut the block down it really doesnt seem to hard. Lock it into something make your line and grind it down.

This.

Put it in a vice, or clamp it to something heavy, and grind it down using a standard grinder. Just be sure to make the line visible.

Then just drill a few holes for the springs, if you grind too much off of them.

 

[synrgy]

So we're just about done.

I used my Dremel tool with a heavy duty cutting disc, and that did the trick in a matter of minutes. I'm surprised how easy it was to cut through solid brass.

When I get home tonight I'll resume hooking up the new pickups, re-string her, and then I think I'll be finished, *finally*.

Will update the actual project thread when it's done.

Thanks for the insight, everybody. Sometimes I have a tendency to hesitate for no good reason.

 

[avenger]

So we're just about done.

I used my Dremel tool with a heavy duty cutting disc, and that did the trick in a matter of minutes. I'm surprised how easy it was to cut through solid brass.

When I get home tonight I'll resume hooking up the new pickups, re-string her, and then I think I'll be finished, *finally*.

Will update the actual project thread when it's done.

Thanks for the insight, everybody. Sometimes I have a tendency to hesitate for no good reason.

Sounds great, can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[OwenD]

Reducing the current block may take some tone/sustain off, because of less resulting mass.
I would make an all-new toneblock being less high and somewhat thicker, using either brass or zinc. Sure, to accomodate the fatter block this will require a Bit more routing on both sides of the cavity, but IMO that's a small prize to pay..

Reducing the block would only make it the same dimensions as the original therefore he wouldn't be losing tone/sustain, it'll bw the same or better as most stock blocks are a material other than brass.

I got a another trem designer/manufacturer to mill down my block. It's a Gotoh, came with a brass block, 6mm too long. It was the cleanest way of taking the size down. I still haven't fitted it to my guitar.. Damn studs need to be removed and replaced with the Gotoh ones.

 

[synrgy]

Yeah -- even after trimming it I still have more sustain block now than I would have with the original Edge III trem that came with the guitar, not to mention that the current block is brass wheras the Edge III's block was just 'regular' composite metals.

Almost there. I all but finished yesterday, but then broke the high E string during the re-string process. (D'oh!) Insult to injury: All my gear is basically at my office/studio, and I was working on the guitar at home. When the string broke, I said 'fuck it', packed the guitar in the car and drove off to the office.

25 minutes later I arrived, only to realize I forgot the security badge I need to actually get IN to the office. (fffffuuuuuuuuuu....)

Anyway, I got to test it this morning (minus the one string) before my shift started, and I should be officially done by the end of my lunch hour this afternoon. CAN'T WAIT to peel off the protective layer currently on the pickguard to see my new baby in all her shiny monochromatic glory!!

I will post pics of the whole guitar in the other thread, and post a link to that thread here for you guys when I post a pic of the modified sustain block here.