I propose a ROTM (Y)(E)... (picstory ensues...)

  • Thread starter shotgunn
  • Start date
  • This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.

shotgunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
297
Reaction score
163
Location
Chicago, IL
I'm not saying all amps with PCB's suck. Heck, my Triaxis & 2:90 combined has more PCB's than a Chinese sweatshop. I love my RG-100 too.

However, the difference between the two technologies is as clear cut as night and day. PCB's only true advantage is repeatability and consistency. Not to mention they are a PITA to troubleshoot.

I do however really enjoy the Stilleto. The pre 500 (1-499 SN) Dual Rec's are PCB based, but there is a definitive mystical mojo about them that rocks like no other amp. Dual Rec's w/ SN's from 500-2500 are pretty sweet too, but not like the pre 500's.

The 90's marked the dawn of a new era for Mesa. IMO they have never been the same. The Mark series amps were the best amps Mesa ever designed. But they were too expensive to hand wire.

They cut costs sooooo much, but never dropped prices. I refuse to buy any Mesa gear brand new. All of my mesa gear is used from heads to cabs.

Here is a perfect example of how PCB's and PTP hand wiring make a HUGE difference... I know most of us hear are metal heads and LOVE high gain. That being said, most of us also appreciate many other genres and therefor many other types of guitar tone. Anyhoo, if you've ever played a Fender Bassman reisue of the 1959 classic and compared it to the original you will be amazed at how different it sounds and feels.

I have built the 1959 Fender (5F6-A circuit) hand wired by myself and it sounds exactly like the original 1959 circuit. The feel of the amp is spot on with the original in an A/B comparison. Not so with the 'genuine Fender reissue' which happens to be PCB based. I have also built the Fender Champ Amp, a 5W little monster (that I built for my son) and that thing CRANKS!!! It is a toneful little beast. In January I'll be building a Tweed Deluxe and the Marshall 18w head.

The 18w Marshall was actually the last Marshall amp ever to be PTP wired. Again this amps PCB version pales in comparison.

I won't say that PCB's 'suck tone', but they undeniably alter the sound of any given circuit. Guy's that built PCB amps engineered them with PCB's in mind and therefor have better results. Taking a PTP amp and reissuing it as a PCB will never sound as good. Never.

I'm not yelling at you, I am also not trying to prevent you from disagreeing with me. I think we as people need to be allowed to disagree it gives us character and diversity. I hate when people try (I'm not saying you did this) to prevent you from disagreeing. A fact is always a fact regardless of ones opinion. PCB's do not have the same type of tone as PTP amps.

Wow, I just totally derailed my own thread.

sorry.

Thanx,

shotgunn

See, I disagree about PCBs sucking tone. My Budda sounds great as a PCB amp, and the Stiletto Series IIs and Lonestars are fantastic new Mesas. Their bass stuff is great too... the Walkabout series are fantastic-sounding and very loud for such a small package. All PCBs.

I don't buy the PCB versus point-to-point argument. However, I do know that the original Recto design (the one the 2ch Duals were based off of) was originally aimed at George Lynch as a lead amp. It was only when they changed the Recto tone stack to play into the nu-metal/down-tuned craze that things started to go south.

Also, TMI on the toilet thing :lol:

Here is the meaning of my abreviations in my diagram. Some are pretty obvious while others are not.

Pedals on Pedalboard:

MUTE SPLT = Custom tuner mute/Mag Piezo splitter/True Bypass loop for my Whammy pedal.
WH-1 = Digitech Original Whammy Pedal
TU-2 = Korg TU-2 Tuner pedal
GCP = Ground Control Pro (MIDI Controller)
535-Q = Dunlop 535-Q Wah Wah pedal with selectable range and Q

Pedals in rack:

MXR = MXR 6 band GEQ (the blue ones from the 70's)(I have two)
PADI = LR Baggs Para Acoustic DI
TOCT = my own hand built Tych Brahe Octaver (a la Jimi)(It sounds pretty good)
LPB = Electro Harmonix Linear Power Booster (from 70's)
DS-1 = You should NOT be playing a guitar if you do not know what this is.
AG-Stomp = Yamaha AG-Stomp Acoustic guitar FX
NEO = Neovibe (my hand built knock off of the Univibe (again, a la Jimi)(It sounds, not so good. Will replace with Fultone Mini Deja Vibe)
BMS = Electro Harmonix Bass Micro Synth (modded by shotgunn (that's me) for Expression pedal control of the Stop Frequency paramter, plus a slew of other mods)
BS =Wow, I can't remember, I'll have to check my notes

Rack Gear:

Furman = PL-8 Furman Power Conditioners
GCX = Digital Music Corporation GCX Guitar Audio Switcher (loop switcher)(I have two)
G-Force = TC Electronic G-Force
System Mix Plus = Digital Music Corporation System Mix Plus (guitar line mixer)
Decimator = God's gift to High Gain guitar players. In other words, the greatest noise gate EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!
PQ-4 = Furman PQ-4 4 band Parametric EQ (a la Dimebag)(I have two)
DBX 166XL = DBX 166XL dual comp/gate
GCX BUF = Guitar Buffer input on front panel of GCX guitar audio switcher
RG-100 = Randall RG-100 I converted this to a rack head (Dimebag's carpeted Randall)
Triaxis = Triaxis
2:90 = Mesa Simul-Class 2:90 Power Amp

Speakers:

Mesa 1x12 = Mesa 1x12" Rectifier cabinets (I also have a 4x12 Rectifier Traditional cabinet. I gig with this one. The 2 1x12's stay in my studio. I have them (soon to be) mounted on my wall with TV mounts.

Dang, after creating that list all I can think of is how I want EVEN MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

shotgunn
 

This site may earn a commission from merchant links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.

8string

Grande puta de gear!
Contributor
Joined
Mar 18, 2007
Messages
562
Reaction score
51
Location
Norway
God's greatest gift to woodworkers, the Festool OF 1400 EBQ router. Superior dust collection, second to NONE...

RackMod04.jpg

This man speaks the truth :metal:
It's simply the best freehand router out there
 

shotgunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
297
Reaction score
163
Location
Chicago, IL
Here are the final pics. I will probably make an adjustment to make it angle back a bit more. I will also probably buy all double locking casters as well.

I just remodeled my studio and I do not want my crazy kids to knock the rack into my freshly painted (and drywalled) walls.

Caster plate before pic...

RackCasterPlateMod01.jpg


Scored line for cutting (hard to see)...

RackCasterPlateMod02.jpg


Plunge cut with Freud Diablo plywood blade...

RackCasterPlateMod03.jpg


Plunge cut complete...

RackCasterPlateMod04.jpg


Japanese pull saw for final separation from under cutting due to blade radius...

RackCasterPlateMod05.jpg


Separation complete...

RackCasterPlateMod06.jpg


The existing casters a re 5" tall. The casters I am adding are 3.75" I will shim them a bit higher with 3/4" birch plywood...

RackCasterPlateMod07.jpg


Holes marked...

RackCasterPlateMod08.jpg


Holes drilled...

RackCasterPlateMod09.jpg


First caster installed...

RackCasterPlateMod10.jpg


It feels pretty good on the ground...

RackCasterPlateMod11.jpg


Unfinished edge...

RackCasterPlateMod12.jpg


Black spray paint...

RackCasterPlateMod13.jpg


None more black...

RackCasterPlateMod14.jpg


RackCasterPlateMod15.jpg


Split caster plate installed on bottom of rack...

RackCasterPlateMod16.jpg


The only bolts I have with matching nuts are a bit too long...

RackCasterPlateMod17.jpg


Cut with Jigsaw...

RackCasterPlateMod18.jpg


That SUCKED, let's try the hack saw...

RackCasterPlateMod19.jpg


Hacking...

RackCasterPlateMod20.jpg


Whacking...

RackCasterPlateMod21.jpg


Magnifique... The added casters are just slightly off the ground. As I planned...

RackCasterPlateMod22.jpg


Full rack pic...

RackCasterPlateMod23.jpg


Inside rear view...

RackCasterPlateMod24.jpg


Side view...

RackCasterPlateMod26.jpg


Other side view...

RackCasterPlateMod27.jpg


This gap causes the rack to bounce a bit. I need to make this more rigid. I'll take a piece of 1/2" maple and screw it together.

This makes it nice and rigid, but takes away the slight back angle. I will try 3/8" or 1/4" later...

RackCasterPlateMod28.jpg


Overhead view of halves separated...

RackCasterPlateMod30.jpg


At long last, in the studio...

RackCasterPlateMod31.jpg


Another view...

RackCasterPlateMod32.jpg


Inside bottom view...

RackCasterPlateMod33.jpg


Inside left view...

RackCasterPlateMod34.jpg


Inside right view...

RackCasterPlateMod35.jpg


Latches opened...

RackCasterPlateMod36.jpg


Separated and arranged approximately how I'd like them to be...

RackCasterPlateMod37.jpg


Partial amp collection... MK-II C+ (top), MK-III (bottom), '59 Bassman (bottom), and Fender Champ Amp (top).

I modded the Champ for more gain of course...

RackCasterPlateMod39.jpg


I will try to start loading the rack tonight. We'll see what happens.

Thanx,

shotgunn
 

shotgunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
297
Reaction score
163
Location
Chicago, IL
The good news is that I actually was able to get a chance to put my rack gear in the newly modded rack. The other good news is it handles pretty well. Opening the rack was a cinch, closing it up was nice, rolling, etc... The 2:90 an the Triaxis fit nicely with room to store my pedals on the other half.

The bad news if my RG-100 chassis (which I put rack ears on) is about 3/16" too wide.

The other good news is, I am a friggin genious with a TON of tools and a crap load of stuff that I never get rid of because I know that one day I will find a use for it.

Basically, I am gonna put the RG-100 all the way at the top of one of the racks. To do this I will have to hack saw away the top three sets of rack rail screw holes, remove some of the 3/8" that supports the rails on the inner rack shell and reinstall either the original rails or some that I have had laying around for quite a while.

Here are the latest pics.

Both racks side by side...

LoadedRack1.jpg


RG-100 half (w/o the RG-100)...

LoadedRack3.jpg


Triaxis & 2:90 half...

LoadedRack4.jpg


Still no blinky lights. I have not wired the racks yet.

Soon, hopefully.

Thanx,

shotgunn
 

Sang-Drax

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2005
Messages
2,212
Reaction score
245
You are insane!

(in a very cool way, that is) :metal:
 

7slinger

wake up dead
Contributor
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Messages
3,885
Reaction score
173
Location
work...in St. Paul
The other good news is, I am a friggin genious with a TON of tools and a crap load of stuff that I never get rid of because I know that one day I will find a use for it.

you definitely have some frankenstein-style thinking going on in your workshop (and I don't mean simpleton or low IQ :wavey: )
 

shotgunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
297
Reaction score
163
Location
Chicago, IL
Well, I finally got around to getting 'rig' all together. Long story short I had one gig with it and I nearly destroyed my back. I have since torn it all apart and purchased the Line 6 Pod X3 Pro.

I have been enticed with the Line 6 stuff for the last 10 years or so and I finally pulled the trigger. I still have to have a GCX switcher to switch some pedals in/out but my rig is MUCH simpler yet does not compromise versatility.

I am not too proud to admit defeat. The split rack idea was wicked awesome. If I had more time and energy I would surely fine tune the structure of the rack. It was VERY difficult to open and close, MANY wires had to be removed just to close it.

As much as I love the X3 I still haven't found an awesome Hi Gain sound that I love yet. I am disappointed with the Boogie models. Especially the IIC+. It is Mid Gain at best. I don't get it...

Anyway thanx for tuning in!

shotgunn
 

troyguitar

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
9,015
Reaction score
797
Location
St Petersburg, FL
As much as I love the X3 I still haven't found an awesome Hi Gain sound that I love yet. I am disappointed with the Boogie models. Especially the IIC+. It is Mid Gain at best. I don't get it...

Anyway thanx for tuning in!

shotgunn

The IIC+ models I've played on most modelers all seem to be more like a IIC or IIB than a IIC+. It's like the people doing the software were given the wrong amp to model.

I also have a big 16-space shockmount rack full of crap and have been thinking for awhile about getting the X3 Pro, especially since I share the rack with my other guitarist. We could in theory just plug both of us into the X3 and have a full 2-person rig in a 6-space rack with one FBV thing to control both of our tones. Or even a 4-space if we go straight to PA.
 

shotgunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
297
Reaction score
163
Location
Chicago, IL
I know man, it sounds like the R2 mode of the MKIII to be honest. Mt MKIIC+ has wicked amounts of gain. As for the X3, it is a real life saver. I plug my magnetics into input 1 and my piezos into input 2. I have totally separate signal chains for each. I have even put my G-Force in the FX loop. Doing this has increased my flexibility even more.

I recommend giving it some serious thought.

Thanx,

shotgunn

The IIC+ models I've played on most modelers all seem to be more like a IIC or IIB than a IIC+. It's like the people doing the software were given the wrong amp to model.

I also have a big 16-space shockmount rack full of crap and have been thinking for awhile about getting the X3 Pro, especially since I share the rack with my other guitarist. We could in theory just plug both of us into the X3 and have a full 2-person rig in a 6-space rack with one FBV thing to control both of our tones. Or even a 4-space if we go straight to PA.
 
Top
')