Ibanez MM1 turning issues: Is my bone nut cut properly?

[Remster]

Hi everyone!

I know I'm probably not the first one nor the last one to come up with tuning issues in regards to their Ibanez AZ or any signature models in that line but I'm trying to overcome the same problem so I thought I'd ask myself as well.

I bought a new Ibanez MM1 Martin Miller signature and almost everything about it is paradise: neck profile, SS frets, the pickups, the dynamix toggle, the finish. The downside is the tuning when either bending string and/or using the T1802 gotoh bridge.

I'll first start by the specific issues and then I'll continue with what I have tried.

*NOTE* Yes I have been stretching my string a lot *NOTE*

Everything is stock and the strings are D'addario NYXL 10-46

- Issues

1. After bending the G string, the B string is sharp and If I bend the B string after, it'll come back in tune or pretty close.
2. After bending the B string, the high E string is sharp and If I bend the high E string after, it'll come back in tune or pretty close...this seems to happen much less often and the degree of sharp is much less than the previous issue.
...somehow the low E, A and D string aren't affected and remain in tune when doing bends either on them or on the G, B and high E.
3. Whenever I dive or pull up with the bridge all the strings return sharp by a variably good amount.

- What I tried

1. Made sure the gotoh locking tuners height adjustment posts were properly locked from behind the tuners with a 1.5 hex key.
2. Tightened the locking caps ever so slightly with a coin to make sure the strings weren't loose in any way. (First time I tried it, I must have turned too much because I broke the high E string) I know they are supposed to lock themselves as we tune the strings after installing a new one but is it an unwritten rule to give it a little extra to make sure it's secure or do you guys just let it do its thing?
3. Made sure the bridge is at the proper angle.

Only things I can think of at this point are these:

- Bridge doesn't return to the proper position?
- The gotoh tuners are just pieces of shit?
- The string tree for the B and high E string is messed up?
- The groove in the saddles aren't smooth enough so the strings are being stuck?
- The bone nut needs to be recut.

I have added pictures of my bone nut and the strings don't seem to be very deep in it, is it normal? I'm only used to play guitars with locking nuts like the Ibanez RG/JEM/JS

Please help!

 

[Crungy]

Is that the same string size these use from the factory?

 

[Crungy]

And have you tried any lubricant in the nut slots?

 

[Remster]

Is that the same string size these use from the factory?

Yes the guitar comes stock with 10-46

 

[Remster]

And have you tried any lubricant in the nut slots?

No but I think I should. Any suggestions on types and brands?

 

[Crungy]

I use the Music Nomad Tune It stuff, works fine for me. Others may have other suggestions that work better or are cheaper though.

 

[Rubbishplayer]

And have you tried any lubricant in the nut slots?

Gotta lube yer nuts!

On a serious note, maybe some gentle smoothing of the slots with 600-1000 grade wet-n-dry and some graphite lube will help.

As I understand it, the MM1 has a more conventional two-point non-locking trem, so IMHO it will never be as fully secure as a full locking trem. If you've been mainly playing locking trems, you'll be used to being a lot more abusive. In my experience, using a more normal 2 pointer trains you to be a little more respectful and eschew massive divebombs. I also find that even a traditional Fender synchronised trem can be brought back into to tune by "cycling" (depress then lift and bring back to zero), but you need to learn to incorporate this into your playing.

 

[Remster]

Gotta lube yer nuts!

On a serious note, maybe some gentle smoothing of the slots with 600-1000 grade wet-n-dry and some graphite lube will help.

As I understand it, the MM1 has a more conventional two-point non-locking trem, so IMHO it will never be as fully secure as a full locking trem. If you've been mainly playing locking trems, you'll be used to being a lot more abusive. In my experience, using a more normal 2 pointer trains you to be a little more respectful and eschew massive divebombs. I also find that even a traditional Fender synchronised trem can be brought back into to tune by "cycling" (depress then lift and bring back to zero), but you need to learn to incorporate this into your playing.

Yeah I'm really not a heavy trem abuser when I play regularly. I have an RG655 and a JS1200 when I want to play Vai/Satriani stuff but I wanted an AZ style guitar to become my main instrument to write my own music and just play and have fun in general. I would never be abusing it.

Where do you get the graphite lube?

 

[Rubbishplayer]

Yeah I'm really not a heavy trem abuser when I play regularly. I have an RG655 and a JS1200 when I want to play Vai/Satriani stuff but I wanted an AZ style guitar to become my main instrument to write my own music and just play and have fun in general. I would never be abusing it.

Where do you get the graphite lube?

Amazon, Brownells...there's a bunch of different OTC products aimed at the locksmith and gun owner communities. I have a few differents types, but they're cheap so easy to try a few different types to see what works for you. Just use really sparingly.

Oh yeah, and while you do have locking tuners, neat minimal windings on the posts with winding done under tension helps ensure your strings settle quickly.