Kinda scared about a first build...

[JosephAOI]

Where can i get a fretboard that long and wide though? It would have to be maybe 3" wide, right? I can't find one that wide and over 20" long. Maybe a bass fretboard blank?

 

[sk3ks1s]

LMII has various sized blanks. Any piece of sufficient hardwood that you can cut to the dimensions should work. Since you have a different scale, I doubt you'll get a pre-radiused/slotted blank. You're most likely going to have to radius and fret it yourself.
If all else fails, go with a bass blank. I'd say minimum width would be 2 3/4". Minimum length, 21".

 

[Hammy]

Perhaps you should try and grab a cheap guitar from craigslist and try some carving/fininshing on that first. It's a promising idea to be crafting your own instrument, but it's relentless at least (no matter what tools you own). You'll notice when you will start building that there's a lot you might have not thought about when you started, this may result in abandoning the project altogether

 

[JosephAOI]

Perhaps you should try and grab a cheap guitar from craigslist and try some carving/fininshing on that first. It's a promising idea to be crafting your own instrument, but it's relentless at least (no matter what tools you own). You'll notice when you will start building that there's a lot you might have not thought about when you started, this may result in abandoning the project altogether

I already have some wood to practice on. The thing i'm still nervous about is getting all my measurements right and trying to figure out how I know when they're correct such as the frets, tuners in the right spot, more stuff with the fretboard (getting it wider closer to the bridge than at the nut), etc. I have no idea to know when thats right.

 

[sk3ks1s]

That is a good point. Since you already have a functioning guitar, all you'd need to do would be to make some cosmetic alterations. Maybe do some reshaping of the body/headstock. Re-profile the neck. Add a single coil pick-up in the middle. Anything to get you used to using the tools of the trade.
These parts are laden with forgotten threads about bright, wide eyed hopefuls with all their specs laid out only to realize that there's a lot more to it than 30 or 40 progress pictures lead you to believe.
This is in no way meant to discourage. Quite the contrary. Hopefully, with this info you'll be a little more prepared to take it on.

 

[sk3ks1s]

I already have some wood to practice on. The thing i'm still nervous about is getting all my measurements right and trying to figure out how I know when they're correct such as the frets, tuners in the right spot, more stuff with the fretboard (getting it wider closer to the bridge than at the nut), etc. I have no idea to know when thats right.

Do a 1:1 drawing on something like bristol board. You can literally trace your shit onto the wood. You can also affix it to the wood when it comes time to drill tuning peg holes. Just use the drawing as your template and drill right through it. Same with your bridge placement and neck bolt holes. It'll make a prefect template for any pilot holes.

 

[Purelojik]

also http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/

will be your best friend. make sure you keep in mind that anytime they ask string width, its from the middle of the string to the middle of the other string, Read the ? marks and ask questions before using it as a full template. other than that i've had good results using it.


also make sure when you print, you choose the appropriate paper size. and in printer options, do not shrink or anything.

then as always cut out and tape, and COUNT THE FRETS.

then once you have your paper fretboard then rock out while fantasizing what the finished product will look like

 

[JosephAOI]

Does anyone know the string spacing on the Hipshot fixed 7 bridge??
EDIT: I found it, 2.496"

 

[JosephAOI]

Are there any websites or any other (free) resources where i can find more obscure details on building? Like how to know exactly where to place the bridge, level and put in the nut, tuners (again, still worried about this but how much does their placement really matter as long as they're far enough apart from eachother?), how long, wide and thick the neck pocket should be, etc.? Or could you guys help with this? (I hate to ask so much stuff but I want to make sure I do this very well) Also, are there any parts that have screws in them that you normally wouldn't think so? Like maybe the fretboard and scarf joint?

 

[sk3ks1s]

Are there any websites or any other (free) resources where i can find more obscure details on building? Like how to know exactly where to place the bridge, level and put in the nut, tuners (again, still worried about this but how much does their placement really matter as long as they're far enough apart from eachother?), how long, wide and thick the neck pocket should be, etc.? Or could you guys help with this? (I hate to ask so much stuff but I want to make sure I do this very well) Also, are there any parts that have screws in them that you normally wouldn't think so? Like maybe the fretboard and scarf joint?

If you go to the Stewmac fret calculator, it will tell you where abouts to place the bridge in relation to the nut.
The nut seems pretty stright forward. Center line everything and you should be fine. The width of your nut will dictate the starting with of your neck. So there's one of your dimensions right there.
Tuning pegs do not have a particular position. It depends on what you're going for. If you want straight lines, I suggest doing a 1:1 drawing for a template. If you want a fanned look (Jackson), same idea. If you just drill 6 equa-distant wholes without lining it up with your nut, it's gonna look horribly crooked.
The neck pocket will obviously be dictated by the size of your neck. I didn't route my neck pocket until I had my neck done. Then just traced the profile onto MDF and made a template with it. The upper horn usually meets the 19th fret while the lower horn tends to meet the 21/22nd fret.
Study the guitar(s) you have. See how they're assembled.
Check out your local music store if you have a design in mind that a manufacturer already does.
I'm pretty sure every contact point between 2 pices of wood (neck to body obviously excluded) is secured by glue. No hidden screws.

 

[JosephAOI]

Okay, thanks a bunch man. I started working today. Cut out the body and glued up the neck and I've got it sitting to dry till tomorrw evening. I don't think I did too horribly bad (Considering this was also my first time using a band saw) although the edges where the two pieces of each body meet aren't great at all (One's horrible) AND I forgot to cut a little bit outside the lines . For my first build(s) though, I think it's fairly acceptable. Check it out. (Sorry for the crappy IPhone 3G pics by the way)

1st Body (Not too bad methinks)

2nd body squint

3rd Body (My own design, pretty good i think)

Overall, i'm satisfied but not happy with the three of them (except maybe the 1st). Thoughts, comments, concerns?

 

[sk3ks1s]

You have to joint your ends before glueing them together. If they are not jointed, they will have very little structural strength. Not to mention an obvious seam.
Seams are usually done in the middle of the body as well.
Good work on the bandsaw for your first time by the way.

 

[JosephAOI]

You have to joint your ends before glueing them together. If they are not jointed, they will have very little structural strength. Not to mention an obvious seam.
Seams are usually done in the middle of the body as well.
Good work on the bandsaw for your first time by the way.

How do you joint the ends? And thanks man.

 

[sk3ks1s]

Either run them along a jointer.
Run a router along a straight edge with a flush bearing trim bit.
Or use a good old fashioned plane and level it off.

 

[JosephAOI]

Either run them along a jointer.
Run a router along a straight edge with a flush bearing trim bit.
Or use a good old fashioned plane and level it off.

I tried using this tool but it didn't work very well (at all ) I thought it was similar enough to a plane to work..

 

[JosephAOI]

Is there any way i can joint the ends without using a planer, router, or jointer??

 

[Themadcow]

Is there any way i can joint the ends without using a planer, router, or jointer??

Well, if you don't have a router you aren't gonna make it very far in these builds. You could get a flat sanding block with some 40 grit sand paper then finish with 80 grit and that would be good enough.

The idea is that the pieces need to be perfectly flat against each other or you will be able to see your glue line

 

[JosephAOI]

Well, if you don't have a router you aren't gonna make it very far in these builds. You could get a flat sanding block with some 40 grit sand paper then finish with 80 grit and that would be good enough.

The idea is that the pieces need to be perfectly flat against each other or you will be able to see your glue line

I can use a router but I don't have one. It's my grandpas but I really want to keep working trying to get everything perfect as much as I can now. Should I just wait?

 

[HaMMerHeD]

You will need a router for the neck pocket, pickup cavities, and electronics cavity. Home Depot has a decent ryobi for $60, but it has only a 1/4" collet. Expect to pay at least twice that for a router with a 1/2" collet, which is required by some of the big shaping bits bits (like a 1/2"+ raduis roundover bit).

To joint an edge with a router, you'll need a bit at least as deep as the wood you are jointing. So a 1.5" thick body would require at least a 1.5" cutting length on a straight bit. Also, if you want to joint an edge with a router, you'll need a bearing-guide pattern straight bit. I bought a Diablo (aka Freud) 2" top-bearing straight bit from home depot for about $30, and it has a 1/2" shank, which means it requires a router with a 1/2" collet. After the tools are sorted, you'll need a straight edge. I procured a 1/4" thick, 3' long machined aluminum flat bar for that purpose. It cost me about $30, and I'm using it to router straight edges on my neck.



But the best advice I can give you is this:

Slow down. It's not a race. Take your time. Practice on cheap scrap while you build your tool collection. I use poplar and red oak from Home Depot to practice on because it's cheap. I've made 3 complete necks out of practice wood, and now I'm working on the real deal. I was intimidated by the process at first, but now I feel confident and ready to go. The lack of tools gave me plenty of time to think and plan and practice.

 

[Themadcow]

I can use a router but I don't have one. It's my grandpas but I really want to keep working trying to get everything perfect as much as I can now. Should I just wait?

It's not very realistic to build a guitar without at least a router, I would wait till you have one, or do what I suggested. A little hand sanding with a heavy grit and you could glue those up//////