Let the RG8 Mods begin...

[lewis]

Here are some non-potato images.

THat looks absolutely fantastic. Amazing job dude.

Does that low string going into the nut at that angle cause any tuning problems?
So much cooler than the stock RG8s

 

[JoeyJoJoJrShabadoo]

there was one in Norwich that was awesome,

Max Dawe however, he is now successfully building guitars for people and has no time to do basic luthier work for people anymore.
I asked him about routing some wood out of my headless for a new hipshot bridge but his calendar is full until NEXT year.

Hadn't heard of him before, looked up his stuff and WOW. These tops are insane. How was I unaware this kind of work is nearby?

Unfortunately, every tech I've gone to has done work wrong (one wired up my humbuckers constantly split despite me providing a wiring diagram from SD themselves, one wired a pickup switch in backwards, another just wired it up incorrectly and didn't care that it wasn't what I asked for because I "look like a guy who only uses the bridge pickup") so it's forced me to learn how to do this shit myself.

 

[lewis]

Hadn't heard of him before, looked up his stuff and WOW. These tops are insane. How was I unaware this kind of work is nearby?

Unfortunately, every tech I've gone to has done work wrong (one wired up my humbuckers constantly split despite me providing a wiring diagram from SD themselves, one wired a pickup switch in backwards, another just wired it up incorrectly and didn't care that it wasn't what I asked for because I "look like a guy who only uses the bridge pickup") so it's forced me to learn how to do this shit myself.

I know right.
His resin work is out of this world.

His build times are wayyy quicker than that of other companies despite being just him and a hectic schedule.
He wont cost as much as others either.

But he works as a tree surgeon all week and does builds on the weekends (so actually use wood from trees he fells for his builds... awesome) so he is just completely chocka the entire time sadly.
He did some RG8 work for me a while ago (custom CF pickguard etc) but sadly, it seems like those times are gone.

 

[ThePhilosopher]

THat looks absolutely fantastic. Amazing job dude.

Does that low string going into the nut at that angle cause any tuning problems?
So much cooler than the stock RG8s

I've not noticed any problems, I do think the neck is still adjusting to being under tension. It plays wonderfully and the low notes are clear. I may switch the pickups to Fluences to try them out and see how they handle the low tuning.

 

[M3CHK1LLA]

I've not noticed any problems, I do think the neck is still adjusting to being under tension. It plays wonderfully and the low notes are clear. I may switch the pickups to Fluences to try them out and see how they handle the low tuning.

maybe you can get us some sound clips of before and after....would be curious as to the differences.

 

[ThePhilosopher]

I posted some clips in the NGD thread that could serve as before clips.

 

[JoeyJoJoJrShabadoo]

My RG8 has arrived! I'll take some before photos at some point. Some things I noted upon unpacking:

There's actually texture to the burl on it, but it's very minimal, I planned to seal and sand it regardless, so this should still take care of that.

The plate isn't nearly as intrusive and ugly as I'd thought previously, so I'm gonna just replace the saddles and eliminate any risk through changing the bridge. Graphtech make replacement saddles I believe, as well as tuners, so I think I'm going to go all Graphtech on hardware and the nut.

The fingerboard definitely needs darkening, and if that ruins the inlays, I'll be getting some luminlays. I'll worry about the fretboard after tge body and headstock refinish.

I'll have to wait for my next paycheck to get started, but excited to get to work on this!

 

[lewis]

My RG8 has arrived! I'll take some before photos at some point. Some things I noted upon unpacking:

There's actually texture to the burl on it, but it's very minimal, I planned to seal and sand it regardless, so this should still take care of that.

The plate isn't nearly as intrusive and ugly as I'd thought previously, so I'm gonna just replace the saddles and eliminate any risk through changing the bridge. Graphtech make replacement saddles I believe, as well as tuners, so I think I'm going to go all Graphtech on hardware and the nut.

The fingerboard definitely needs darkening, and if that ruins the inlays, I'll be getting some luminlays. I'll worry about the fretboard after tge body and headstock refinish.

I'll have to wait for my next paycheck to get started, but excited to get to work on this!

YESS
Sounds amazing.

I had great results ebonzing my fretboard by using the tried and tested Fiebings black leather dye, rubber gloves and as a sealing clear coat type product, Osmo poly x oil tints off Amazon in black. Stops the stain/dye coming off on your fingers and they sell small "teaster" sachet's for £1.50 each and there is enough in each sachet to do a couple of coats per fretboard.

Its meant for hardwood flooring I believe, but works well for this application. I did also replace my dot inlays on the board with Luminlay's myself too because of the stain.

 

[MoonJelly]

^^Cool beans dude. Sounds like a slick mod. I'll post a few pics as promised after my lunch break. My RG8 body is sitting in the trunk of my car

 

[JoeyJoJoJrShabadoo]

YESS
Sounds amazing.

I had great results ebonzing my fretboard by using the tried and tested Fiebings black leather dye, rubber gloves and as a sealing clear coat type product, Osmo poly x oil tints off Amazon in black. Stops the stain/dye coming off on your fingers and they sell small "teaster" sachet's for £1.50 each and there is enough in each sachet to do a couple of coats per fretboard.

Its meant for hardwood flooring I believe, but works well for this application. I did also replace my dot inlays on the board with Luminlay's myself too because of the stain.

Yeah man, you did some really good work in your HB, so I'll be coming to you for advice when the time comes!

 

[MoonJelly]

Ok, so I jumped the gun a bit...

Pictures kinda suck as for the fish-eye effect of a camera phone. Here you can sort of see that the string holes line up "well enough".


up close the fish-eye effect is pretty bad. Concerning the string holes, I'm completely in the clear except for the 8th string. This is again not a width issue, but a placement problem.


I was only half-right about the string holes vs. screw holes. The width of the screw holes on the HM bridge is wide enough that it completely clears the original plate bridge holes, but the placement is another factor too. They are completely underneath the bridge. The little yellow dots are my best depiction of where the holes are centered.



What this means for y'all modders--if you use the HM bridge and are planning to change as little as possible, the string hole on the 8th string will need to be widened on the top of the body, either upwards or downwards. This would be far easier than drilling into the steel of the bridge plate.
The screw holes are displaced enough that you would very likely be able to drill fresh ones, without any repurcussions. The screws on both bridges are kinda puny, meaning the holes are small and the screws really only serve to keep the bridge from wiggling out of place. If it makes you nervous to have that hole nearby, you drop a little superglue in the pre-exiting hole and wedge a toothpick down the hole. It's small enough the toothpick may be a too-snug fit without a little re-drilling.

What it means for me is that my plans haven't changed. Since I plugged the pickup cavities, and I'm replacing the fretboard, I may do a 28" scale and cut new holes for everything. I'm juggling between that and doing a half-fan like @ThePhilosopher did. I may be moving the whole placement of the bridge down about 1-1 3/4", if I decide to go really long on the scale. I'm pretty comfortable with big jobs, however, I know this is the type of mod you'd normally hire a luthier for, and at a certain point it'd cost so much in labor you'd wonder why you didn't just buy a used 852.

 

[mnemonic]

I think at some point I might take off the bridge of my RG8, fill the screw holes, widen the string thru holes, and remount it a few mm back.

I have intonation room on my high strings but my 7th and 8th are both maxed out. 7th string is right-ish, but 8th is still off.

 

[BangandBreach]

Ok, so I jumped the gun a bit...

Pictures kinda suck as for the fish-eye effect of a camera phone. Here you can sort of see that the string holes line up "well enough".


up close the fish-eye effect is pretty bad. Concerning the string holes, I'm completely in the clear except for the 8th string. This is again not a width issue, but a placement problem.


I was only half-right about the string holes vs. screw holes. The width of the screw holes on the HM bridge is wide enough that it completely clears the original plate bridge holes, but the placement is another factor too. They are completely underneath the bridge. The little yellow dots are my best depiction of where the holes are centered.



What this means for y'all modders--if you use the HM bridge and are planning to change as little as possible, the string hole on the 8th string will need to be widened on the top of the body, either upwards or downwards. This would be far easier than drilling into the steel of the bridge plate.
The screw holes are displaced enough that you would very likely be able to drill fresh ones, without any repurcussions. The screws on both bridges are kinda puny, meaning the holes are small and the screws really only serve to keep the bridge from wiggling out of place. If it makes you nervous to have that hole nearby, you drop a little superglue in the pre-exiting hole and wedge a toothpick down the hole. It's small enough the toothpick may be a too-snug fit without a little re-drilling.

What it means for me is that my plans haven't changed. Since I plugged the pickup cavities, and I'm replacing the fretboard, I may do a 28" scale and cut new holes for everything. I'm juggling between that and doing a half-fan like @ThePhilosopher did. I may be moving the whole placement of the bridge down about 1-1 3/4", if I decide to go really long on the scale. I'm pretty comfortable with big jobs, however, I know this is the type of mod you'd normally hire a luthier for, and at a certain point it'd cost so much in labor you'd wonder why you didn't just buy a used 852.

My dude I cannot wait to see how you complete that thing.

This is easily my favorite thread on this website.

 

[lewis]

Ok, so I jumped the gun a bit...

Pictures kinda suck as for the fish-eye effect of a camera phone. Here you can sort of see that the string holes line up "well enough".


up close the fish-eye effect is pretty bad. Concerning the string holes, I'm completely in the clear except for the 8th string. This is again not a width issue, but a placement problem.


I was only half-right about the string holes vs. screw holes. The width of the screw holes on the HM bridge is wide enough that it completely clears the original plate bridge holes, but the placement is another factor too. They are completely underneath the bridge. The little yellow dots are my best depiction of where the holes are centered.



What this means for y'all modders--if you use the HM bridge and are planning to change as little as possible, the string hole on the 8th string will need to be widened on the top of the body, either upwards or downwards. This would be far easier than drilling into the steel of the bridge plate.
The screw holes are displaced enough that you would very likely be able to drill fresh ones, without any repurcussions. The screws on both bridges are kinda puny, meaning the holes are small and the screws really only serve to keep the bridge from wiggling out of place. If it makes you nervous to have that hole nearby, you drop a little superglue in the pre-exiting hole and wedge a toothpick down the hole. It's small enough the toothpick may be a too-snug fit without a little re-drilling.

What it means for me is that my plans haven't changed. Since I plugged the pickup cavities, and I'm replacing the fretboard, I may do a 28" scale and cut new holes for everything. I'm juggling between that and doing a half-fan like @ThePhilosopher did. I may be moving the whole placement of the bridge down about 1-1 3/4", if I decide to go really long on the scale. I'm pretty comfortable with big jobs, however, I know this is the type of mod you'd normally hire a luthier for, and at a certain point it'd cost so much in labor you'd wonder why you didn't just buy a used 852.

I adore the Gibraltar bridge.
Best looking hardtail bridge hands down.

 

[MoonJelly]

Yep. I got it because it looks good. The added mass is a bit of a bonus.

 

[lewis]

Yep. I got it because it looks good. The added mass is a bit of a bonus.

one thing that would be cool is to slightly recess those bridges to help with LOOOOOOW action haha.
Wonder if anyone has ever tried that, Would look cool imo

 

[MoonJelly]

Interesting, I don't mind the idea.

 

[lewis]

Interesting, I don't mind the idea.

you are welcome haha

 

[lewis]

Interesting, I don't mind the idea.

also, the brand new keith Merrow Schecter sig guitar appears to have it slightly recessed -

Didnt even know that haha

 

[JoeyJoJoJrShabadoo]

also, the brand new keith Merrow Schecter sig guitar appears to have it slightly recessed -

Didnt even know that haha

He just put up a video touring the factory and talking about designing the MKIII, it's like 18mins but worth the watch