You'll either need some headphones running directly into the pod to hear yourself play via USB, or some speakers/monitors hooked up to it.
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You'll either need some headphones running directly into the pod to hear yourself play via USB, or some speakers/monitors hooked up to it.
This site may earn a commission from merchant links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
Electric Wizard
it's my first day
I made a quick sample of my patch with the new Doom model. I think it gets pretty close to the Matamp or Laney or whatever it is that Matt Pike uses.
Pod HD300 Doom Model tone test by Welcome Thrillho on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free
Pod HD300 Doom Model tone test by Welcome Thrillho on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free
RickyCigs
Banned
That sounds a lot better than the previous demo of it that was posted. Very sabbath sounding. Probably not going to be very useful to me, but still cool anyway
thats pretty damn crunchy
sounded pretty sick!
kinda of reminds me of a orange amp i tried out a couple weeks ago lol
sounded pretty sick!
kinda of reminds me of a orange amp i tried out a couple weeks ago lol 
meambobbo
Well-Known Member
Zei,
yes - the 4 cable method is most useful for running the pod in conjunction with a real amp, when you sometimes want to use that amp's pre-amp but other times want to use the pod hd's amp modeling as your pre-amp. if you are only interested in using the pod hd's amp models (as I would given that the spider valve's models are not as good IMO), then you should just run into the FX loop return of the spider, also labeled power amp in. As I mention, that's how I have my spider connected.
A lot of my guide is geared towards studio/direct tones, so you can ignore things like "dual cab" and "mic selection".
yes - the 4 cable method is most useful for running the pod in conjunction with a real amp, when you sometimes want to use that amp's pre-amp but other times want to use the pod hd's amp modeling as your pre-amp. if you are only interested in using the pod hd's amp models (as I would given that the spider valve's models are not as good IMO), then you should just run into the FX loop return of the spider, also labeled power amp in. As I mention, that's how I have my spider connected.
A lot of my guide is geared towards studio/direct tones, so you can ignore things like "dual cab" and "mic selection".
Zei
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's how I have it set-up right now and it's working exactly how I want it to, thank you very much.
But I have another problem (I'll probably be here a lot
). I'm starting to dial in my rhythm tones and I have it set to something I like right now, but I have a weird hum during rests before the hardgates kick in. This is what I have (see attachment).I'm running into two Treadplates (Dual Rectifier according to your guide?) with one 1x12 Celeste 12-H and the other 4x12 Blackback 30. I've got it mixed Mono, centered. Or should I just pick the "no cab" option since I'm running it through my amp?
I've spent the last two or three hours trying to EQ out the hum and playing around with Hard Gate/Noisegate placement, EQ Placement and stuff like that. I think it's the Screamer giving me a bit of hum (it was giving me a lot of feedback before I turned the drive down to 0%), but when I turn it off the tone isn't quite as "tight" as I'd like it.
Attachments
RickyCigs
Banned
Yeah, that's how I have it set-up right now and it's working exactly how I want it to, thank you very much.
But I have another problem (I'll probably be here a lot
I'm running into two Treadplates (Dual Rectifier according to your guide?) with one 1x12 Celeste 12-H and the other 4x12 Blackback 30. I've got it mixed Mono, centered. Or should I just pick the "no cab" option since I'm running it through my amp?
I've spent the last two or three hours trying to EQ out the hum and playing around with Hard Gate/Noisegate placement, EQ Placement and stuff like that. I think it's the Screamer giving me a bit of hum (it was giving me a lot of feedback before I turned the drive down to 0%), but when I turn it off the tone isn't quite as "tight" as I'd like it.
what are your decay and hold settings at on the hard gate? if anything but zero, then that will be most of your problem. i also run a comp into a hard gate then my screamer, then another hard gate with less threshold all before the amp model. the hard gate doesnt kill your tone at all like the noise gate, so you can run as many as you like. so long as your thresholds arent too high that it takes beating your guitar with a hammer to open the gate
whats your drive level on the amp model? when you add drive with the screamer you should take out some from the amp. ive never gone past 50% personally. however, with two gates, or even a third after the model, you shouldnt get any feedback at any gain level.
EDIT: i looked at your screenshot. turn down your thresholds to at most -55 on your first hard gate, and then add the second one afterwards at around -60 or even -65 threshold. that should help a lot.
polarbeast666
Well-Known Member
Hey so I just bought a pod hd500 and I'm majorly confused. I have a Peavey 6505+ and was going to use this pod as my amp simulator to try and get some sweet djent tones ect. but what would be the best way to go about connecting everything? What would sound best?
polarbeast666
Well-Known Member
Also, if I am using my pod as an amp sim and just using my peavey to power it (right?) then what settings should I avoid while making a tone? Cab sims? Mix sims? Anything?
meambobbo
Well-Known Member
ZEI,
for the tube comp, you've got threshold pretty low - meaning you will get lots of compression with it set that low. I'd raise that to around 40-50%.
the level control does not impact the level of compression, only the overall output level of the effect. i keep it at 0%, since that is as close as i can get to unity gain. at 56% is quite high - so you're boosting the signal heavily from the get-go. which means you need higher settings for your gate. I wouldn't say that's WRONG, but you may need to play with the settings to get things lined up for both.
screamer and graphic EQ look good, although you probably don't need the graphic EQ in conjunction with the screamer, but that's your call.
i am guessing you are using combo or stack output mode? i wouldn't use dual cabs for your rig. It's just going to eat up your DSP for no good reason. The cabs choices in any output mode other than studio/direct apply "live-voiced cabs" which are simple EQ curves designed to make your cab sound more like the cab you've selected.
I'm not saying using two cabs is bad, but you would likely have more control over your tone by using one amp/cab, then applying a few EQ effects.
where dual cabs really come in handy is for studio/direct tones, since the onboard cab/mic sims tend to be inconsistent throughout the frequency spectrum for each individual cab/mic.
for the tube comp, you've got threshold pretty low - meaning you will get lots of compression with it set that low. I'd raise that to around 40-50%.
the level control does not impact the level of compression, only the overall output level of the effect. i keep it at 0%, since that is as close as i can get to unity gain. at 56% is quite high - so you're boosting the signal heavily from the get-go. which means you need higher settings for your gate. I wouldn't say that's WRONG, but you may need to play with the settings to get things lined up for both.
screamer and graphic EQ look good, although you probably don't need the graphic EQ in conjunction with the screamer, but that's your call.
i am guessing you are using combo or stack output mode? i wouldn't use dual cabs for your rig. It's just going to eat up your DSP for no good reason. The cabs choices in any output mode other than studio/direct apply "live-voiced cabs" which are simple EQ curves designed to make your cab sound more like the cab you've selected.
I'm not saying using two cabs is bad, but you would likely have more control over your tone by using one amp/cab, then applying a few EQ effects.
where dual cabs really come in handy is for studio/direct tones, since the onboard cab/mic sims tend to be inconsistent throughout the frequency spectrum for each individual cab/mic.
meambobbo
Well-Known Member
as for your hum, with the compressor set to compress so heavily, it will compress hum and other noise in your signal, making it harder for the gate to filter it. I would one gate at the very front of the chain, and the next one after either the compressor or screamer.
i'd start by turning the 2nd one off and dial in the first one so that the softest note you want to play opens the gate. set close thresh slightly lower than open thresh to prevent jitter. hold and decay to 0.
once that's dialed in, leave it on and turn on the 2nd, and do the same thing.
another source of hum/noise is a low MASTER knob setting. This knob on the face of the Pod HD controls an analog gain stage between the D/A converters and analog outputs. The manual and experience says turning this to 100% (and the amp/line switch to line) gives you the highest signal to noise ratio. However, this can cause distortion to whatever you run the Pod into if it output too hot of a signal. This is the case on my Spider Valve Mk I. I set this to around 60%. Not sure about the Mk. II but i'd imagine it's about the same. so get that as high as you can without clipping.
Finally, there's guitar shielding, bad cables, and ground loops to investigate. As for ground loops, do you have the Pod hooked to a computer via USB. I found unplugging the USB eliminated a lot of noise for me, and that the noise was much stronger for lower MASTER knob settings than if I turned that up. Bad cables you just have to test using other cables you know are good. Guitar shielding - try a friend's guitar or open yours up and verify it has shielding paint or lining in the cavities. Try turning off any fluorescent lights.
i'd start by turning the 2nd one off and dial in the first one so that the softest note you want to play opens the gate. set close thresh slightly lower than open thresh to prevent jitter. hold and decay to 0.
once that's dialed in, leave it on and turn on the 2nd, and do the same thing.
another source of hum/noise is a low MASTER knob setting. This knob on the face of the Pod HD controls an analog gain stage between the D/A converters and analog outputs. The manual and experience says turning this to 100% (and the amp/line switch to line) gives you the highest signal to noise ratio. However, this can cause distortion to whatever you run the Pod into if it output too hot of a signal. This is the case on my Spider Valve Mk I. I set this to around 60%. Not sure about the Mk. II but i'd imagine it's about the same. so get that as high as you can without clipping.
Finally, there's guitar shielding, bad cables, and ground loops to investigate. As for ground loops, do you have the Pod hooked to a computer via USB. I found unplugging the USB eliminated a lot of noise for me, and that the noise was much stronger for lower MASTER knob settings than if I turned that up. Bad cables you just have to test using other cables you know are good. Guitar shielding - try a friend's guitar or open yours up and verify it has shielding paint or lining in the cavities. Try turning off any fluorescent lights.
meambobbo
Well-Known Member
polarbeast, i like "no cab" usually when running to a real amp.
keep in mind the 6505+ has no master volume knob - only pre-amp channel volume knobs. If you hook the Pod up via 4CM, basically use the Peavey's volume knobs to level your channels vs. your patches that use the Pod's amp modeling.
Use the MASTER knob on the Pod as your master volume control. start with this on 0% and slowly turn up to avoid deafening yourself.
keep in mind the 6505+ has no master volume knob - only pre-amp channel volume knobs. If you hook the Pod up via 4CM, basically use the Peavey's volume knobs to level your channels vs. your patches that use the Pod's amp modeling.
Use the MASTER knob on the Pod as your master volume control. start with this on 0% and slowly turn up to avoid deafening yourself.
meambobbo
Well-Known Member
the main thing to avoid is using studio/direct output mode AND selecting a cab/mic in the amp block.
polarbeast666
Well-Known Member
what exactly is the studio/direct output mode? What is it for?
RickyCigs
Banned
plug your pods output into your fx return, turn off cab sims, set pod to stack power amp. to do that, hold down the VIEW button and the I/O menus will show up.
done deal. awesome tone.
RickyCigs
Banned
i just had to post this. new riff idea for my "album"
sounds so thick, crushing and ballsy! i really love my hd500
New Riff Idea by RickyCigs on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free
sounds so thick, crushing and ballsy! i really love my hd500
New Riff Idea by RickyCigs on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free
Zei
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the help guys! I really appreciate it. I've got my rhythm tone and my clean tone, now I just need a nice, glassy lead tone
i just had to post this. new riff idea for my "album"
sounds so thick, crushing and ballsy! i really love my hd500
New Riff Idea by RickyCigs on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free
Awesome tone! Very thick and full, it's really crushing.
Zei
Well-Known Member
... another problem. When I try and transfer my tones to my POD I get these really thing, shitty sounding ones by pressing the foot switch. When I'm in HDEdit and I double click on a tone to switch I get the one's I just created that sound nice. Any idea what's going on? I tried transferring them one by one and together as a set, but it's not working.
EDIT: It just... fixed itself I think. My unit restarted and now my tones are there. This is odd So does this mean whenever you import patches you should restart the unit for them to really take effect?
EDIT: It just... fixed itself I think. My unit restarted and now my tones are there. This is odd
So does this mean whenever you import patches you should restart the unit for them to really take effect? RickyCigs
Banned
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