Looking for either........

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RGmaster

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Yea right now im lookin for a UV7BK (greendot) or a UV7PWH for 550$ or for hopefully not too much more 700$ at very very most (thats the highest i can go) including a never used DiMarzio Blaze Bridge pu to go with it.

Now im not lookin for a mint one, but just used and i wont say truly beat, but has had its time being played, ok we'll say a beat one lol. Thats it if anyone knows thats would be cool:metal: Also i would reallyy prefer a greendot UV but i can live with a PWH too, thanks.
 

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OzzyC

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Sorry to be the one to tell you this, but you're expecting way too much for far too little- the price range you're looking at is filled with 7620's and 1527's, not Green Dots and PWHs.
 

djpharoah

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At that price you are looking at horrible condition UVs at which point you wouldn't want it. I would say save up some more as UV7BKs start at like 800 - 1200 and the PWHs are slightly higher. They are definitely worth it though.
 

Stitch

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What they said. '91 UV7BK start around $800 and work there way up to about $1200 depending on condition.

Ishibashi had a used green dot sitting in the U-box for about $700, but I don't expect that to be up anymore and I haven't looked for it since.

PWH's will be a fair wodge more as they are much rarer (limited production numbers) and more people want them. Jemsite frequently slanders the green dot as being the worst UV (which is totally wrong, IMO - the UV777PBK wins that award) so prices are skewed again somewhat.

Just listen to us and ignore anyone who plays sixes normally, and for gods sake don't buy from Ibanez Rules. :lol:
 

Drew

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Yeah, in your price range, a 1527 or 7620 with a replacement set of Blazes is really your best bet. UV's start for quite a bit more than $550.
 

thedonutman

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According to his profile, he already has a 7620 with Blazes.
 

Drew

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Well then.

1.) Sell that and add the price to your available cash, and look for a UV in the $950-1100 range, which is much more feasible.

2.) Realize that a 7620 is, unless you REALLY want that middle pickup, really only cosmetically different than an older UV, and arguably a better player, with taller frets and the all-access neck joint giving you improved upper access.
 

Eric

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2.) Realize that a 7620 is, unless you REALLY want that middle pickup, really only cosmetically different than an older UV, and arguably a better player, with taller frets and the all-access neck joint giving you improved upper access.

:ugh: I thought you owned one. My UVs play and sound a million times better than my 7620. Completely different guitars in every aspect (except similar materials of course).
 

djpharoah

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^ Agreed. There is a reason why they are so sought after. I wouldn't give up bro - keep looking and in the meantime keep saving and I am sure you will find one thats for you.
 

Metal Ken

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2.) Realize that a 7620 is, unless you REALLY want that middle pickup, really only cosmetically different than an older UV, and arguably a better player, with taller frets and the all-access neck joint giving you improved upper access.

Wafer thin old UV neck > 7620.
AANJ = No big deal.
Medium frets = \m/


Personal preference though.
 

Eric

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Not to mention the undeniably superior craftsmanship of the UVs compared to a 7620...
 

Chris

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Not to mention the undeniably superior craftsmanship of the UVs compared to a 7620...

Exactly which craftsmanship would that be? It's a basswood RG body with a rosewood fretboard and a LoPro7. Exactly like the 7620. The only real difference is the neck profile, frets and the stock pickups.
 

Eric

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Exactly which craftsmanship would that be? It's a basswood RG body with a rosewood fretboard. Exactly like the 7620.

Note that I said craftsmanship not materials (which I noted were identical in a previous post).

Since you asked me to explain, the craftsmanship that I was referring to was the superiority of the assembly and finishing of the identical materials. Namely, the frets on a UV are put into place much nicer than the frets on the 7620. This is because craftsmanship relates to an artisan or someone who practices their trade with great skill.

While I never disagreed that the basic materials were different (although quality of said materials is also subject to variance), it seems more time has been spent in the creation of UVs. This probably also reflects the vast price difference. Also, since I have owned 5 original UVs and 3 7620s (not to mention playing countless others), I'm going to go ahead and call myself a credible source on this one.
 

Chris

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I've owned 2 7620's and two UV's, and played dozens. I guess I'll go ahead and call myself a credible source on it as well then. You're saying that the "vast difference" in craftsmanship is the frets? Or the way the bolt on neck goes into the neck joint? :scratch:
 

Eric

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Well then if you have owned 2 UVs you should personally understand the quality difference just from feeling a UV neck. If you can't feel the difference then, hey, maybe you really should play 7620s. Somehow, however, since you own a UV, I'm willing to bet you already know this...

... and the "vast difference" quote was taken out of original context in referance to price.
 

Chris

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Well then if you have owned 2 UVs you should personally understand the quality difference just from feeling a UV neck. If you can't feel the difference then, hey, maybe you really should play 7620s. Somehow, however, since you own a UV, I'm willing to bet you already know this...

... and the "vast difference" quote was taken out of original context in referance to price.

We already said the neck was thinner, dude. I actually prefer the 7620 neck/frets to the UV777PBK neck. If you're going to make statements, make correct ones. If you're going to state your opinion, that's another thing entirely. Old UV necks are not "vastly better in quality and craftsmanship" than RG7620 necks. They're RG bodies with bolt on necks, cut from CNC and pressed together in a factory.
 

Eric

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We already said the neck was thinner, dude. I actually prefer the 7620 neck/frets to the UV777PBK neck. If you're going to make statements, make correct ones. If you're going to state your opinion, that's another thing entirely. Old UV necks are not "vastly better in quality and craftsmanship" than RG7620 necks. They're RG bodies with bolt on necks, cut from CNC and pressed together in a factory.

Where did I say anything about the thickness of the neck? My CT's are the same neck profile as a 7620 and I still like the way those play better than my UVs as well. There is a quality difference between a 7620 and a UV.
 

Drew

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Actually, I'm going to have to go ahead and disagree with you there. I've never heard any credible evidence that the UV's got any additional fit and finish work over and above what was done on the regular Japanese assembly floor for all Ibanez guitars, and in fact I've seen Ibanez factory pictures with signature models interspersed with non-signature models.

And, to be perfectly honest, much as I love my PWH, my 1527 is the better made guitar. I mean, the locking nut was installed off center, noticably towards the bass side. :2c:

Ken's argument at least makes sense, as it's based on personal taste. I've also heard speculation that the old-style neck joint provides a slightly better tone than the AANJ due to vibrational surface area, and there may be something in that. Of course, the tradeoff is the AANJ doesn't suffer from the same sustain problems that the old-school joint does.

In the current production line, I actually vastly preferred my current 1527 to the '04 777BK that I A/B'd it against. Of course, the 1527 is a Prestige, but even then my old '99VK at least had a properly installed nut... :shrug:

The PWH had noticably more bass depth than the VK, too, but part of that was construction (pickguard vs. direct mount) and part of it was the pickups (the TZ7 is just flubby).
 
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