LTD QC issues, incorrectly mounted Floyd Rose studs. Should I return?

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cheapwalkcycles

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I recently ordered an LTD Arrow Black Metal which I was really excited for, but when it showed up I quickly noticed some issues. First of all, there are several imperfections in the finish. The binding on the neck is pretty sloppy, with lots of specks of dust trapped under the finish and several cut marks by the frets. The trem cavity is also unpainted, and the area between the bridge and the pickup looks pretty ugly in direct light.

I could maybe overlook these cosmetic issues, but there's a more serious problem with the Floyd Rose 1000. I noticed it wasn't returning to pitch perfectly even after stretching the strings extensively. It would come up sometimes 5-10 cents flat from dives, and 10-15 cents sharp from pull ups. Upon inspecting the bridge, I noticed that the post on the bass side is leaning backwards away from the neck, and the treble side post seems to be slightly leaning in the opposite direction toward the neck. This was concerning, so I pulled out the bridge, and there appears to be some gouging in the knife edges and posts, especially on the bass side. I couldn't actually pull the bridge out without detuning the strings which I didn't want to do, so I couldn't inspect very closely to see if this was just the paint being scraped off or more significant wear. Either way, it seems like a pretty bad sign on a new guitar to me. I guess it's possible this could have been caused if the tech adjusted the action under tension, but I also suspect that the incorrect angle of the posts might be causing this wear and the failure to return to pitch.

After applying some chapstick to the knife edges, the return to pitch is better, but still not perfect. It's usually within 5-10 cents either way. It now seems like the bottom three strings are coming up slightly flat and the top three a bit more sharp, even if I try to reset with a dive, which is puzzling. Is this problem likely to get worse with time?

Here are some pictures showing the unpainted trem cavity, the post angle, and the gouging on the posts/knife edges, but it might be hard to see clearly:

Would these issues warrant a return for you? I think I could live with the finish imperfections if the guitar were functional. The return to pitch isn't terrible right now, but it could definitely be better and I'm concerned that the knife edges and posts will continue to wear and make the problem worse over time.
 

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cheapwalkcycles

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Update, I pulled the trem again to check the posts for wear, and I can actually wiggle the bass side post back and forth and freely rotate it with no resistance. This thing has to go, no doubt about it. Extremely disappointed with LTD, I expected much better than this.
 

cheapwalkcycles

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I’m considering two options for a replacement, the E-II Arrow (black) or LTD Arrow 1000 (violet andromeda), both available now. Any thoughts?

The main difference is the E-II has an Original Floyd while the LTD has a 1000, which I’m a little skeptical about given the wear that was already present on this 1000 unit after a day of use. I guess if it’s installed right it should be ok, but this indicates the posts and knife edges are not as hard as the Original. The E-II is about $700 more all told but if it’s a significantly better guitar then I’m ok with that.
 

TheShreddinHand

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The other difference between the two is the E-II ones have a straight 12 inch fretboard radius. The LTDs either compound 12-16 or straight 16 depending on year (I think).
 

trem licking

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I’m considering two options for a replacement, the E-II Arrow (black) or LTD Arrow 1000 (violet andromeda), both available now. Any thoughts?

The main difference is the E-II has an Original Floyd while the LTD has a 1000, which I’m a little skeptical about given the wear that was already present on this 1000 unit after a day of use. I guess if it’s installed right it should be ok, but this indicates the posts and knife edges are not as hard as the Original. The E-II is about $700 more all told but if it’s a significantly better guitar then I’m ok with that.
That isn't knife edge wear in the photos. That is paint flake off. All floyds do that. Knife edge wear would be a divot or flat spot on the edge itself... A rare sight on any floyd, from original to special series
 

Captain Shoggoth

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I’m considering two options for a replacement, the E-II Arrow (black) or LTD Arrow 1000 (violet andromeda), both available now. Any thoughts?

The main difference is the E-II has an Original Floyd while the LTD has a 1000, which I’m a little skeptical about given the wear that was already present on this 1000 unit after a day of use. I guess if it’s installed right it should be ok, but this indicates the posts and knife edges are not as hard as the Original. The E-II is about $700 more all told but if it’s a significantly better guitar then I’m ok with that.

Either would be good, I have an E-II and they're excellent, a bandmate has the LTD 1000 in white and it's also a very good guitar, although idk about the value proposition of either for new pricing. I'd pick violet Andromeda over plain black and the compound radius is a nice touch. With a good setup it could play as nicely as the E-II for sure.

IME the Original and 1000 series Floyds are exactly the same from a user perspective, with the same materials + tuning stability, and the same drawbacks vs more advanced designs like the Gotoh. Sounds like your Arrow was a lemon in more ways than one but the 1000 series itself is a perfectly fine trem and mine serves me as well as my Originals.
 

cheapwalkcycles

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Either would be good, I have an E-II and they're excellent, a bandmate has the LTD 1000 in white and it's also a very good guitar, although idk about the value proposition of either for new pricing. I'd pick violet Andromeda over plain black and the compound radius is a nice touch. With a good setup it could play as nicely as the E-II for sure.

IME the Original and 1000 series Floyds are exactly the same from a user perspective, with the same materials + tuning stability, and the same drawbacks vs more advanced designs like the Gotoh. Sounds like your Arrow was a lemon in more ways than one but the 1000 series itself is a perfectly fine trem and mine serves me as well as my Originals.
I’m curious, what do you think is better about the Gotoh GE1996T? I know it has locking studs for instance, lower profile, better arm holder mechanism. Anything beyond that as far as actual function?
 

jrn1308

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I got the Arrow 1000 in candy apple red, absolutely no issues on my side. In general I never had any issues with the FR1000. The FR1000 should also be made of hardened steel like the original Floyd and should last years and years of use and abuse. The biggest difference I found are the finetuners. They are much smoother on the OFR. Looks like you really had a lemon and someone pretty much ruined the FR1000 on your Arrow by doing whatever to it.

If you care about stainless steel frets get the Arrow 1000, otherwise the E-II.
 

gh0styboi

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Definitely agree that the original one you bought needs to go back. That's gonna be problematic no matter how you cut it, and unless you want to fill and re-drill the holes - which is not something you should ever have to do with a new guitar - return or exchange it for sure.

As far as which of your alternatives to go with, if you can afford it, go E-II. Nothing wrong with LTD (usually - it's not very often I hear about problems like you're having with one - sorry, dude), but E-II is a bit of a step up. If your money is tight, there's a difference between the 1000 and the E-II, but it isn't a massive chasm of difference like there would be with an full fat MIJ ESP.
 

cheapwalkcycles

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Aren't there Stainless frets on E-II guitars?

That's so fucked up if LTD 1000s come with Stainless and E-II don't.
Unfortunately that is the case generally as far as I know. Its not really a big deal to me personally because I’m sure the nickel silver they use on E-II is excellent quality, but it is strange that they haven’t made the switch to stainless steel yet.
 
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