My 8 string build:)

[Adam]

I dont know if it would be able to handle the high A though(too much tension) expescially if I go tuning it EADGBEAC

 

[guitarplayerone]

I dont know if it would be able to handle the high A though(too much tension) expescially if I go tuning it EADGBEAC

ooh lmfao i thought you were tuning BEADGBEA

the tension should be fine if you have the correct gauge...

you can always ask gary goodman what his string is rated for

 

[distressed_romeo]

I dont know if it would be able to handle the high A though(too much tension) expescially if I go tuning it EADGBEAC

That tuning's crazy!!! You could try DGCFADGC if you're concerned about tension. It would also avoid having to get used to the minor third between the top strings.

 

[OzzyC]

That tuning's crazy!!! You could try DGCFADGC if you're concerned about tension. It would also avoid having to get used to the minor third between the top strings.

That says a lot coming from you.

 

[distressed_romeo]

 

[Durero]

I dont know if it would be able to handle the high A though(too much tension) expescially if I go tuning it EADGBEAC

In my experience with Garry's strings I wouldn't hesitate to try that tuning on a Kahler 8-string trem. His strings are surprisingly low tension (depending on which gage you are using of course) for such high tunings.

 

[Adam]

In my experience with Garry's strings I wouldn't hesitate to try that tuning on a Kahler 8-string trem. His strings are surprisingly low tension (depending on which gage you are using of course) for such high tunings.

Interesting I might go with tuning it BEADGBEA just to be safe though, also is the string spacing on a kahler trem the same as a hipshot fixed bridge? If not Im screwed because Mike Shermans already shaping the neck.

 

[Durero]

The string spacing is adjustable (!) on the Kahler trems - which is a fantastic feature. Guaranteed that you can get the same spacing as the hipshot.

 

[NiCkMiLnE]

Umm its really going to suck Clamping things up with the Wings pre cut
ALSO your going to need the edges that glue to the neck to be PERFECT and flat so you need to joint them and with the body cut out already you are going to lose some wood and you may have to mod your design a bit

I hope it all works out man

i always cut mine out first, then use the wood that was made scrap as a clamp, since its the perfect shape.

 

[Adam]

Update!
Mike will be shipping my neck out at the end of next week
Also the bridge is coming in any day now(big thanks to Canuck Brian) and the high A strings as soon as Garry is done winding some
Everythings wired up, all it needs now is to have the p/u holes routed, glue the wings on and drill holes for the bridge. Then a good helping of tung oil will be applied to the whole body+headstock and back of the neck.

 

[Rusty_cooley702]

Nice dude, i'm making my own 8 string guitar too.

But i have a doubt, how the fuck are you going to do to put the neck pup? It's very near to the lower horn, it's looking very fragile.

BTW i like the design and the idea for the neck. Ànimo!

cant he angle it like cooley did with his ax???

 

[OzzyC]

cant he angle it like cooley did with his ax???

He could, but he doesn't need to.

 

[Adam]

He could, but he doesn't need to.

Absolutely correct kind sir
Ive made it possible to have the c/a meet at the 26th fret and have the deep cooley cutaway and not have to angle it, mostly thanks to the fact that having a 6 string bass p/u in an 8 string guitar is kind of an overkill, while a 5 string bass p/u is more suited to an 8 string both sonically and string spacing wise, with the super long magnets in the 6 string pup, you have too much output on the ouside strings.

 

[Naren]

Can't wait to see this thing finished. Looks like it's gonna be totally kickass.

 

[angus]

Update!
Mike will be shipping my neck out at the end of next week
Also the bridge is coming in any day now(big thanks to Canuck Brian) and the high A strings as soon as Garry is done winding some
Everythings wired up, all it needs now is to have the p/u holes routed, glue the wings on and drill holes for the bridge. Then a good helping of tung oil will be applied to the whole body+headstock and back of the neck.

Wait, have you been able to get a hold of Mike?

 

[Adam]

Wait, have you been able to get a hold of Mike?

yea its been like 2 weeks for him to respond, but hes really busy moving into his new shop. And hell have internet hooked up there on Friday.

 

[Adam]

The bridge came in and the neck will ship out next week.
Im thinking about satining the guitar, probably black, now I was wondering to seal the stain could I use tung oil?

 

[angus]

Probably safer to worry about the construction before the finish at this point, as you have a long, long way to go!

 

[Adam]

Probably safer to worry about the construction before the finish at this point, as you have a long, long way to go!

I dont have that long of a way to go actually, all I have to do is glue the wings on, the blend the wings to the back of the heel, then route the pickups, drill the hole connecting those routes to the control cavity, then place the bridge drill holes for the strings to go through the body, then drill slightly bigger hole hald an inch deep in each hole for the ferrules, then I drill a hole for the toggle switch then a hole for the vol.pot., the strap holes. Then I have to stain it it then maybe oil it, b ut I dont know if I have to oil it after because the question has not been answered.

After the wings are glued the rest of the work can be done in one night.

 

[angus]

Good luck getting all that done properly and neatly in one night. The hole drilling is not as big of a deal, but the routing, shaping, sanding is. If you think that'll happen in one night without a problem, you definitely have not worked on instruments very much!

Take your time with this, dude. No point in wasting a nice neck because some routes came out ugly or the sanding was half-assed.

And you'll have a lot of sanding to do, in both the shaping and pre-finish sanding stages.

Wood finishing was never my strong suit (relative to metal/plastics), but you'll have to do more than just sand and then throw color on. There are a lot of options available, obviously, but color is not the first coat. It would be wise to talk to Mike about his preferred method (without a booth, obviously) as he'll have more experience with the various methods than most who post here.

I'll avoid giving my opinion on it, because as I said, it's not my strongest suit even if I have finished and refinished a number of instruments. I will say, though, that I do not like tung oil on stained finishes, because it will darken the color by quite a bit, and usually it'll add a very slight yellow/brown tint (very slight). Just something to take into account.