My Amateur Sevenstring Scratch-build project

Kahless

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I have been working on building a 7 string guitar, my first, from little/no experience of woodworking (began with drill and hammer). I'm not sure how it began, how or when i managed to actually plunge into this project, but i really must have gathered alot of information that made me feel like i could do it, and for that to happen i would have to have been looking up more and more information on the parts of guitars, becoming more and more interested until eventually something just twigged inside - It's time...

Time to make something big.. well, not really that big. but bigger than things i have made.. and i'm old enough now to do these kinds of things now o:rolleyes:

Now, when I first started this project i had very little money, earning £50 a week, so i was cutting every corner that i could (cost wise), and concentrating on simply making something, not too fancy; however, times have changed and i got a better job, and suddenly the scale of the project has risen as i learned more and realised i was capable of more than a log with some hardware bolted on - Much time has passed.

If it is okay, i am going to post early pictures and update this topic (faster than i build) until it catches up! I will write as though i am building as i post to make things less confusing to read and write. The first few pictures are via phone, but after that i got a camera and start taking better(ish) pictures.

To begin with, i shall show a sketch (digital) of the guitar as planned (after sketching about 3 hundred body shapes);
SBlzP.jpg


It is quite a squarish body, rounded as a classical guitar but with a cutaway in the style of a Les Paul, but without an arching top as such. There will be a gentle curving of the top, and a point at the bottom like the Ibanez Iceman. I am going for that chunky body look that the iceman has. The headstock is leaf-like to mirror the base. The fingeboard is very long - the plan is to make a baritone scale length and see if i can use normal gauge strings tuned to B.
The guitar will not be white (although that looks cool, and reminds me of this crazy expensive/sleek guitar) but rather will proudly present the wood it was made from.


Here is the pile of wood i will be building from;
cwHug.jpg

Once part of the walls of our house, this ancient Mahogany has been drying for over 50 years. I don't know what it was finished in but it looks hideous. When cut it is pink inside, like a medium steak :agreed:


VGW7e.jpg

I cut some strips and i am joining them together to form a neck blank. At this point, the saw and clamps are my only friends (read tools).
I wish i had some other woods to stick into that laminate to make it more attractive. I have glued it with opposing grain patterns, which should help with stability :wallbash:
 
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Kahless

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Cut a headstock, and filled out with tuners (very rough):
I had no better way(/technology) than sawing out triangles and filing and sanding down to shape.
4ERjZ.jpg


Now cutting the neck with an angled joint for the headstock:
This is a pound shop tenon saw. It did a great job!
qNYdP.jpg


Joining the headstock onto the neck:
rvFqJ.jpg


And after routing the truss rod channel:
uTqaf.jpg
 

skeels

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Awesome man! Double plus good on the primitive tools! Can't wait to watch you build this thing- keep posting!
 

Swyse

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Got a yngwie situation in that room :lol:

The trussrod route looks good.

I'm not sure that headstock design will workout well unless you use the rollers like the gibson moderne had.
 

BlackMastodon

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Yeah that big of a headstock might give you some balance problems. But the build is looking good so far and it should definitely be an interesting build. Good luck!
 

Vinchester

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I presume you have an accurate measurement of the design ready before cutting the thing?
You need to put details like pickup positions, electronic cavities, etc into your design sketches too. I'm a bit worried that it might end up quite imprecise, and I guess precision is pretty important at the neck so you get the scale working.
 

Chocopuppet

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I love the shape- Looks like one of the new Ibanez Glaive thingamabobbers. I agree with these guys in the precision aspect. It'd be a shame to ruin such a pretty thing.
 

Kahless

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@skeels Thanks man, I'll keep posting :) I got a router though, and a pile of bits for £40 from B&Q. There will still be plenty of room for primitive tools though... I'm quite primitive

@Swyse & BlackMastodon Also thanks; The headstock is quite small but my camera puts a lot of bendy perspective on it making it look bigger - I am concerned about the angle of the headstock putting more tension on the strings at the nut though so i might look into rollers (thank you Swyse) :) and there may be some balance problems because i don't have much wood for the body (=>small) but the neck must be long (long scale length).
Perhaps i should make a thinner neck, but i often use an underthumb grip so i'm not too keen on that idea.

@Vinchester
I do indeed - I already have the truss rod, measurements for the scale length, fret positions, bridge position, and i used old strings pulled to measured nut height to check that the tuners and strings would fit in before drilling the holes.
The above sketch is not a technical design sketch, but an aesthetic presentation; I have made full size sketches out of many taped together A4 sheets, and there is plenty of room for everything but i had thought they might make boring pictures ;)
Thanks for the concern though. For precision on the neck measurements i'll be measuring to the nonexistant space between two adjacent lines drawn in different colours (or the hobby/xacto knife mark when lazy). There is technology out there to obtain more precise measurements than my eyes can see but this should do for now.

I am using the Fret calculator and Fretboard Shape calculator on this website BuildYourGuitar.com :: Resources to reduce the amount of arithmetic i'd have to do.

@Chocopuppet Thank you for the compliment on the shape :)

Now, progress- I have 5 bits of wood that i have joined together for the body;

q5CYV.jpg

Above is a picture of me imagining the body shape on the top two pieces.


ECqo5.jpg

This sketch illustrates the 5 pieces of wood that I have joined together

When joining the body i witnessed something very weird, perhaps due to how dry the wood was.

I did not feel that i had enough clamps, so i used some flat weights to apply even pressure after i joined the top two pieces to the bottom three.
The next day i took off the weights and clamps, however, the next time i looked at it, i had this on my hands;

NojL1.jpg

(I didn't take any pictures) There was nothing I could do but clamp things back up and wait and see. I had to turn with alot of force to bend things back... Was this caused by moisture brought into the wood by the glue? (I used Titebond original).
After waiting till the end of the weekend, everything seems fine. I have a big, solid feeling body blank, and i've punched and swung it about enough times for me to be assured of it's structure.
 

CD1221

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clamping pressure is much, much greater than just putting weights on the timber. use as many as you can beg, borrow or steal. hopefully you can correct it.
 

Kahless

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That is good advice. I've seen so many clamps in images, it'd cost me more than the materials in the guitar to buy the clamps that everyone else uses!
I have borrowed some clamps from work though, and they are massive! I'm not even sure why we have them, but i'm okay to borrow them for as long as i need, so long as i get no "gunk" on them.

I did have some smaller clamps as well as the weights for that glue-up though - Apart from keeping things in place though, i was considering the idea of increasing pressure so that the glue is drawn more deeply and evenly through the channels of the wood, allowing more glue to penetrate while the moisture is being drawn out of the glue. I thought the weights might then help providing things are in place - They are big cuboid ones so i was wanting them to assist in balancing the pressure applied. It is okay now though, the body seems quite solid!


REPka.jpg

Now making a Body template to Route around, out of plywood.
I don't have a saw that can cut curves so i used a stanley knife to score the edges, cutting outward from the body. I did this deeply on both sides, then use a Tenon saw from the pound shop to cut the excess into flaps - These flaps can be hammered off very easily without breaking off any of the final template because of the deep scoring.
The final result is a sharp and very rough edge though, but that won't take long to rasp.

uTGy0.jpg

Couldn't resist viewing it against the neck!

BYcbX.jpg

Working on the other side - I got quite lazy/safe-ish with the scoring - I can really whack and saw in seconds if i leave this much extra, and the sharp edge files so quickly.

3AqVa.jpg

You can really see the digging cuts that the stanley knife mkes. I overdeepened the sawing into flaps here and there though - push strokes can be monstrous!

zqOwa.jpg

I then used some rasps and files to sand file the rough edges, and sanded smooth. This is fun :)
 

BlackMastodon

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That's a clean template you got there, you will probably need a few more unless you wanna jam all the electronics cavity onto that one :lol: But yeah I think it's fairly normal that people spend as much/more on clamps as they do on their projects. Those little bastards are expensive but very necessary. Try looking around local hardware stores to see if they have any on sale.
 

Kahless

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Thank you for the nice comments guys :)

@Linny
I'm more in Paisley, but I am very fond of Glasgow and I'm in the city every week.


Routing the Neck:

qSDlb.jpg

I roughly cut some MDF into corresponding templates for the neck socket. This time, i used a saw to cut out triangles of ever sharpening angles, then used a rasp and some files to remove the rest - Not particularly advanced here ;)

Ihy4W.jpg

As you can see, they Have alot of material to be removed yet.

IUijk.jpg

I build this tiny contraption to assist with this - I was hoping it would allow me to create a nice orthagonal surface as follows:

gw5sb.jpg

Quite alot of work - sideways motion only.

mv0qc.jpg

Beginning the route on the neck! The template has alot of room for the router base to stand on, though this excess needs to be supported with whatever scrap i have until it adds up to the right height!

DVb9S.jpg

The MDF wore a little as i was routing. I was not aware of this until i had already worked on the neck socket on the body, so now i have a not so fitting neck :(

LvTjM.jpg

You can even see the gap from here. There is still alot of wood behind the neck extending from underneath the body, and it joins flush but a good join in the against the pull of the strings is a must!

OgBVi.jpg

It seems that the MDF template really wore in on the middle region :(

DnFzU.jpg

Using assorted picks i can get an exact measurement of just how much i screwed up!


THE PLAN:

F9F3i.jpg

1 - I Take this thin piece of spruce - softwood, i know, but I don't have anything else and that lignin is pretty tough - The soft parts should take glue well.
2 - I wrap it in wet paper towels and microwave it for 30 seconds to a minute.
3 - I bend it into place and use a tiny tiny clampy thing and a scouring pad to push it in there.
4 - wait.
(5 - If unsatisfactory i may drill and dowel for reinforcment).
HoMHu.jpg


oSSwK.jpg

Here is the wood - Quite rough, I might have another go at that.
 

Kahless

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As the first attempt at filling the gap was a poor little bend, and got further roughed up as i sanded the neck tenon down to match and squeezed it in until snug, i made a new piece to bend into the gap. Because the neck tenon now fits extra snugly with the first piece of spruce, i was able to use the neck to bend the new slice into place tightly.

ZG0yB.jpg

First, standing the spruce in hot water

QLA3i.jpg

Then, after microwaving, I clamped in place - a plywood template will help the top edges keep shape while they dry.

4hxKd.jpg

I had less than six seconds to do this so i had to clamp it up in the kitchen as shown (old spruce bit on top for demonstration/nostalgic purposes). The water and steam exuding from the spruce was rather hot, and soaked through my thermal gloves :p Lesson learned without any damage!

vQwpc.jpg

I had to cut the spruce in half so that it would bend in accurately (for lack of skill); here it is in the mortise,

dI25Y.jpg

and on the neck tenon side; the spruce did not adequately fill the very middle portion - I will drill and dowel that part of the joint once the neck is in place.

uMka4.jpg

As you can see it fits snugly enough to lift the guitar body blank up, before trimming! The shoulders of the join were never cut to meet (Another consequence of "sinking" mdf template"), and so i shall later fill that, either with sheets of wood or dowel.

A little side story for the headstock now;

jk2rj.jpg

I glued a veneer onto the front side of the headstock. It was tricky to clamp so i used some sandpaper in there.

RFbnq.jpg

With the veneer on the front but not trimmed, i was able to pluck the overhang like a thumb Piano, and make tiny little tunes! It rings nicely :)

kNErW.jpg

Trimmed up and sanded smooth, the headstock is looking nice. Different, but nice. This veneer was sent to me by accident, and i ended up using it here spontaneously. It is better than the underlying wood, but if it turns out not to work under the finish etc (aftr testing samples), it can always be covered up with something else :) (Then i'd have a nice border around whatever top layer 'wins').
 

simulclass83

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Can't say I've ever seem a headstock like that. Props for originality!
 
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