Neck pocket cracks (not just the finish)

[vilk]

Looking at a cool auction, but I can see that there are real neck pocket cracks, not just in the paint (as it's been removed). At the moment, the guitar is very inexpensive.


You think you could just glue and clamp and it'll be fine? Or so long as the neck isn't moving, just leave it be? Maybe mark it somehow and only worry if the crack starts growing?

 

[MaxOfMetal]

It's usually not a big deal, as scary as they look and in such a vital spot, but I've seen tons of guitars like this and maybe a miniscule amount actually needed any sort of correction.

If aesthetics aren't a concern, just drill a few small holes along cracks and fill them with glue soaked dowels. It stops the crack from growing and reinforces the join.

 

[nickgray]

From everything I've read, neck pocket cracks are normal and overwhelmingly don't cause any issues.

The actual force is between the bottom of the neck heel and the top of the pocket, there's no side to side force. Could be that these cracks form due to uneven wood expansion/contraction. The neck to pocket fit is normally quite snug, and of course both are made out of different, separate pieces of wood.

 

[NickK-UK]

Glue is tougher than the wood it sticks. The fun is getting the glue into the cracks enough to prevent future elongation of the crack.

Cracks mean movement. It could be anything from a knock to humidity or bad construction.

If that's cracked, does it show how straight the neck is?

 

[vilk]

Glue is tougher than the wood it sticks. The fun is getting the glue into the cracks enough to prevent future elongation of the crack.

Cracks mean movement. It could be anything from a knock to humidity or bad construction.

If that's cracked, does it show how straight the neck is?

Ehh I didn't win the auction. I regret not bidding higher.

 

[NickK-UK]

Ehh I didn't win the auction. I regret not bidding higher.

Bah, if it appears again then you have your answer

 

[irinairenne]

Looking at a cool auction, but I can see that there are real neck pocket cracks, not just in the paint (as it's been removed). At the moment, the guitar is very inexpensive.


You think you could just glue and clamp and it'll be fine? Or so long as the neck isn't moving, just leave it be? Maybe mark it somehow and only worry if the crack starts growing?

While gluing and clamping a neck pocket crack may seem like a quick fix, it could lead to the crack reopening in the future. Try storing the guitar in a climate-controlled environment and avoiding overtightening the neck bolts.

 

[Musiscience]

The fun is getting the glue into the cracks enough to prevent future elongation of the crack.

Any tips for that? I just sanded down a Strat body in preparation for a refinish, and the cracks extend into the wood at the neck pocket. They are very much tiny airline cracks, so no real space to fit glue. However I'd still like to fill them and avoid the new finish cracking if possible.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Any tips for that? I just sanded down a Strat body in preparation for a refinish, and the cracks extend into the wood at the neck pocket. They are very much tiny airline cracks, so no real space to fit glue. However I'd still like to fill them and avoid the new finish cracking if possible.

Drill small holes at the tips of the crack, and the center, one hole for about every 1/2" to 3/4", and fill with glue soaked dowels. This stabilizes the crack, and stops it dead. Water down some wood glue and pour over what's left, wipe away excess, let dry and cure. Sand smooth.

If the cracks are less than 3/4" total, just wick the diluted glue.

CA glue will work too if the cracks are really small.

 

[Musiscience]

Drill small holes at the tips of the crack, and the center, one hole for about every 1/2" to 3/4", and fill with glue soaked dowels. This stabilizes the crack, and stops it dead. Water down some wood glue and pour over what's left, wipe away excess, let dry and cure. Sand smooth.

If the cracks are less than 3/4" total, just wick the diluted glue.

CA glue will work too if the cracks are really small.

Thanks, I'll try that!

 

[Das Gitarrenwiesel]

A method I've used before is to saw down the crack with a saw with a kerf wide enough to allow me to slide a glue covered piece of matching wood veneer down in to the full reach of the crack. Let the glue cure, then trim off the excess veneer, sand to match and locally refinish.

 

[wheresthefbomb]

Drill small holes at the tips of the crack, and the center, one hole for about every 1/2" to 3/4", and fill with glue soaked dowels. This stabilizes the crack, and stops it dead. Water down some wood glue and pour over what's left, wipe away excess, let dry and cure. Sand smooth.

If the cracks are less than 3/4" total, just wick the diluted glue.

CA glue will work too if the cracks are really small.

For maximum clarity, are you saying to drill them parallel (straight into the crack) or perpendicular?

 

[MaxOfMetal]

For maximum clarity, are you saying to drill them parallel (straight into the crack) or perpendicular?

Along the crack, at both ends and between depending on how long the crack is. The goal is to stop the crack from spreading out, and if already fairly long, to stabilize it.

 

[wheresthefbomb]

Along the crack, at both ends and between depending on how long the crack is. The goal is to stop the crack from spreading out, and if already fairly long, to stabilize it.

I'm still not entirely sure I understand. In the case of the guitar Vilk posted, you'd drill directly into the crack(s) more or less parallel with the neck? I've been eyeballing a T60 with some neck pocket cracks and also some fairly deep cracks in the body running from the bottom strap button toward the neck like this. (not the guitar in question, just a similar crack, the ones in the T60 are longer 3-4" but don't contact any hardware). In the latter case, would you drill into the crack from the top of the body? Thank you for your patience explaining this stuff.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

I'm still not entirely sure I understand. In the case of the guitar Vilk posted, you'd drill directly into the crack(s) more or less parallel with the neck? I've been eyeballing a T60 with some neck pocket cracks and also some fairly deep cracks in the body running from the bottom strap button toward the neck like this. (not the guitar in question, just a similar crack, the ones in the T60 are longer 3-4" but don't contact any hardware). In the latter case, would you drill into the crack from the top of the body? Thank you for your patience explaining this stuff.

I don't understand what you're getting at. The link you posted is broken.

If there is a crack in the corners of the neck pocket, like the OP, you stop and stabilize the crack. The plane of the crack is what you're working on.

Cracks in the body are a little different since it's harder to hide what you're doing without more significant work. Depending on where they are, they're usually stable enough to just let them be. The best major body crack repairs I've seen have been when the technician made the decision to just split the body and repair a nice clean break, but the idea gives me indigestion.