New Schecter Models Megathread

NosralTserrof

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Apparently there are interesting protos incoming.

Hades series (essentially old Loomis in SLS shape, avaiable with or without FR, in 6 and 7 string version, vampire red and black)
Hades_C-7_Chip__full.jpg


AND Multiscale Apocalypse series.

DAMN. I'd snap an 8 of this real quick.

And by real quick, in a couple of months.
 

Zado

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Question: has anyone tried to contact Schecter customer support via mail? How long did it take for a reply?
 

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Zado

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That's the one, hopefully you get through and they sort you out. Once I clarified some things they really helped me out with my issue.
Hope so, It's just a minor question, but being unconsidered it's not something that make me feel comfy with a brand
 

Zado

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I would recommend a follow-up email if you have not tried already. That address could be understaffed or very busy.
I'll try again when I'm off work. My question was about the DC resistance of a Pickup .
I've just purcahsed a Pasadena Classic Bridge humbucker, and out of curiosity -before installing it - I checked with my multimeter what the DC Resistance was (the dealer here in Italy lists the pickup being 9.2K in full mode, while the official site says it's around 10.6K, so I wanted to be sure). The multimeter read 11.2k. No funky temperature in the room btw. Nothing major, just wanted to know.

Also, but this wasn't in the mail. Last week I took off the neck , and since the joint is VERY tight, when put it back in place a small piece of finish chipped away. Well, shiz happens right? What had me curious was that under the layer of paint the wood was dark blue tinted, which sounds unusual, so I wanted to know more. Any ideas why a black-blue tint under a white finish?
 

cip 123

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I'll try again when I'm off work. My question was about the DC resistance of a Pickup .
I've just purcahsed a Pasadena Classic Bridge humbucker, and out of curiosity -before installing it - I checked with my multimeter what the DC Resistance was (the dealer here in Italy lists the pickup being 9.2K in full mode, while the official site says it's around 10.6K, so I wanted to be sure). The multimeter read 11.2k. No funky temperature in the room btw. Nothing major, just wanted to know.

Also, but this wasn't in the mail. Last week I took off the neck , and since the joint is VERY tight, when put it back in place a small piece of finish chipped away. Well, shiz happens right? What had me curious was that under the layer of paint the wood was dark blue tinted, which sounds unusual, so I wanted to know more. Any ideas why a black-blue tint under a white finish?


Paint works in funny ways with wood, there are often undercoats to make things pop. Gold's and Silvers are used under red's sometimes if I'm not mistaken.

The wood could have been stained and then painted. What guitar do you have?
 

Zado

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Paint works in funny ways with wood, there are often undercoats to make things pop. Gold's and Silvers are used under red's sometimes if I'm not mistaken.

The wood could have been stained and then painted. What guitar do you have?
Hu had no idea about this, very interesting! And when it's about relicing? No undercoat or some other methods?? Mine is a vintage white Traditional.
 

xwmucradiox

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Depends on the relic and the company making it. A lot of the partscaster companies only offer relics because they are incapable of producing a high quality finish but if they're going to relic anyway they can start with a sub-par job and age it to where you wouldn't know the difference. Fender starts with a body with a perfect finish and ages it from there although I believe some of their relics nowadays use less sealer so the finish sinks into the grain.
 

Zado

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Depends on the relic and the company making it. A lot of the partscaster companies only offer relics because they are incapable of producing a high quality finish but if they're going to relic anyway they can start with a sub-par job and age it to where you wouldn't know the difference. Fender starts with a body with a perfect finish and ages it from there although I believe some of their relics nowadays use less sealer so the finish sinks into the grain.
I guess it also depends on the kind of finish. The nitro maybe behaves in a more matural way right?
 

cip 123

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Hu had no idea about this, very interesting! And when it's about relicing? No undercoat or some other methods?? Mine is a vintage white Traditional.
You can go nuts with relics really. You'll often see sunbursts and stuff under solid colours to look like it's been resprayed over the years. Both methods are done to achieve a look but the mindset would be a little different in each. For a solid colour someone may choose a certain stain/undercoat to help the colour either pop or stick better, as different colours and types of paints (metalics, pearls etc) will help others pops. For example it's common for a silver or a gold under a candy Red. This is why you'll sometimes see staining done with lots of different colours in order to obtain a solid stain at the end, it'll be stained and sanded or blended with different colours.

Relicing you're more looking at "How do I want it to look when it's stripped back?" You may want say a 50's colour under a more modern colour, or maybe a paisley pattern under a candy silver or something to make it look like it's been resprayed over the years. Relicing you're final colour may not matter as much as you're stripping it back anyway.
 

Zado

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It's still a lil surprising for me seeing such a dark coat under a totally white finish. It's a pain when the finish chips damn :fawk:

I've never been too much into relic personally, but when properly done I admit it's appealing....
 

cip 123

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It's still a lil surprising for me seeing such a dark coat under a totally white finish. It's a pain when the finish chips damn :fawk:

I've never been too much into relic personally, but when properly done I admit it's appealing....
I mean there is always the possibility it was resprayed at the factory, you never really know with custom shop instruments really.

I emailed them about my sunset for some more info, they got back to me with some specs but they had a different bridge on their sheet so it's entirely possible for things to change in the shop.
 

cardinal

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Ridiculous. My PT supposedly is waiting in paint since February 1st at least (to be painted black), Schecter today posts an Instagram pic of two black PTs in the paint booth, and NEITHER one is mine. I sure hope it’s painted and they just didn’t take a pic of it for whatever reason. Otherwise I just cannot fathom what they are doing over there.
 

Zado

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Ridiculous. My PT supposedly is waiting in paint since February 1st at least (to be painted black), Schecter today posts an Instagram pic of two black PTs in the paint booth, and NEITHER one is mine. I sure hope it’s painted and they just didn’t take a pic of it for whatever reason. Otherwise I just cannot fathom what they are doing over there.
Damn, it's a pain hearing this....maybe there were some problem during the build?
 

cardinal

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Damn, it's a pain hearing this....maybe there were some problem during the build?

I was told on Feb 1 and again on Feb 26 that they are just waiting for the body to come from paint. On Feb 26 they said they hoped it’d be done that week (last week).

So if they ran into a problem they aren’t telling me. And this guitar was supposed to be done in November.
 

Zado

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I was told on Feb 1 and again on Feb 26 that they are just waiting for the body to come from paint. On Feb 26 they said they hoped it’d be done that week (last week).

So if they ran into a problem they aren’t telling me. And this guitar was supposed to be done in November.
Like said before, when it's a MW thing they want it to be impeccable in every aspect. So it might have occured something unexpected and now trying to fix it the best possible way. Maybe re-building the instrument.
 
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