NGD/Refinish concerns

[Aviator]

Hello community,

I bought an old Ibanez RG 7620 VK but it has a lot of dents and dings in the finish so I am plannig to do complete refinish but I have still few concerns about it and there's few things I am not sure about. So I hope there is someone out there who can help me.

This is how I think the process looks like.

1. Remove the old finish by sanding (I have a power sander)
//Concern no.1 - Should I sand the sealer of? And how do I recognize I am past the sealer.
2. Use the wood filler to fix dings and then seal and prime the wood.
3. Apply the paint in thin coats
4. Apply clear coat
5. Aiming for the matte/satin/flat finish I'll use 000 Steel wool to remove the gloss from clear coat.

Could you please recommend some stuff from Walmart to do this, or someplace elsewhere in VT since I am here on a summer camp job and some of the stuff is harder to get in Europe.

And also if you see any errors in the process I listed, correct me.

Thanks guys

 

[spn_phoenix_92]

You don't need that last step, just use a matte sealer

 

[Berserker]

You don't need to remove the old paint at all, and you certainly don't need to go anywhere near the sealer. Just scuff sand it to provide a key for the new paint, then prime and paint over the top.

 

[Eliguy666]

The finish will look horrendous if you don't sand the paint even before clear coat, and then sand the clear coat. I'd say up to 320 on the paint and up to 2000 on the clear-coat, but 1500 will do alright for satin.

 

[fastmerc]

The finish will look horrendous if you don't sand the paint even before clear coat, and then sand the clear coat. I'd say up to 320 on the paint and up to 2000 on the clear-coat, but 1500 will do alright for satin.

Ideally you never want to sand your color coat. You want to have it flat sanded on your primer coat.


OP...you can scuff up your original clear do the repairs etc for the easiest route, or you can strip it down. If you can get it down to the original sanding sealer and not go through it or gouge it up that would also be nice. I usually end up taking mine to the wood though. On Ibbys its easiest to carefully use a heat gun. Sanding even with a power sander takes forever and its easy to round a corner or mess up inside the horns.

Its pretty easy to know when your past the sealer, you can tell the difference between the wood dust and the sealer dust.

If you use a wood filler use something like plastic wood....although I much prefer to use bondo glazing puddy, You can also use an epoxy filler. Normal wood filler tends to shrink back to much.

Once you get to the primer step make sure you get it flat sanded to about 400 grit. If you make sure this step is done right the rest of your job will be much easier.

Make sure your primer, color, and clear coats are all compatible with each other. Once you decide which type of paints and clears you are going to use we can all help you more. IE if you decide on Nitro, or Poly, etc.

 

[bouVIP]

Oh hey that was my listing haha~


Good luck with the refinish man and hope you enjoy it!