TedEH
Cromulent
It's been a busy week but I got to try the lundgrens, although only in a 1x10. They seem really hot but still pretty full, not harsh or anything. I'll be able to try them properly in the next day or two.
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If you'd like to sell it to me and then buy it back at a tremendous loss then it would be used! Just spitballing.I still need to get a used Prestige to be more SSO myself. I have a Prestige I bought from new and by now is used, but it's not the same thing lol!
"I'll never sell that guitar, it's the best guitar I've ever owned and I'll be keeping it forever!!"If you'd like to sell it to me and then buy it back at a tremendous loss then it would be used! Just spitballing.
It's also a Collab between a site vendor and self built, plus it has the Ibanez Super Wizard neck profile (17mm neck profile) and it was partly made in Sweden, USA and Australia. Then it got dissed by a cult Meshuggah and Scary symmetry Guitarist of ERGs:I don't think I've quite reached ergo-shaped alternate-temperment custom-built headless matching-knobs flamed-with-bevels level of ss.org, but I'll get there some day.
How very SSO, Per Nilsson uses Lundgrens on his StrandyAfter a few days of noodling with Lundgrens, I think I'd describe them as very..... "extra". And I can't decide if I like that or not.
Treble bleed shouldnt have an effect if everything is on 10 afaik.Now that I've spent some time with the M7s I can't say I'm a fan at the moment. I think they're too bright - which when combined with how HOT the pickups seem to be, cause most of my sounds to come out kinda harsh. I'm wondering if maybe the treble bleed is having an effect even with the volume all the way up. I don't have any other guitars with a bleed cab, so I'm not familiar with what they do. I suppose it would be easy enough to chop the cap out and see what happens. Is anyone familiar with those to know if they still brighten things up at max volume? Or if they're a bad combo with the M7s?
I've been trying to google it, and I've found conflicting reports. I've never had a treble bleed in anything before, so I wouldn't know. Some claim that once you're at full volume the cap is entirely out of the signal and has no effect anymore, and some claim that this is only "theoretically" true but in practice volume pots are not perfect, so there's still some effect.Treble bleed shouldnt have an effect if everything is on 10 afaik.
According to some random ibanez wiki, the "Roadster Orange Flat" finish was USA only.Is it a semi custom, or is it just some weird local variant that us feeble Europeans never will have the pleasure of touching?
If you'd like to sell it to me and then buy it back at a tremendous loss then it would be used! Just spitballing.
Don't you find the cl/lf lacking in mids? I'm a fan though.I say this because - my best sounding guitar, to my taste, is my S7420, which has the CL/LF set in it. If I plug into my interface directly and just look at the DI signal, it's pretty clear that the bridge M7 is lacking low end, but is kinda spiky in the highs. The crunchlab by comparison sounds full and the highs are still there, but aren't pokey.
That's pickups in a nutshell. Some guitars same pickup in bridge and neck, e.g. the stock Air Classic Neck in both positions in my PAC-821D, the bridge is super thin and the neck is full of bass. Closer you are to the neck more bass.I find it weird that the neck M7 is LOUD and FULL OF BASS, enough to warrant ALL CAPS, but in the bridge? It's thin. I looked at the wiring and everything looks fine to me. The wires were spliced in, sure, but they were soldered together so.... seems fine?
Either that or - maybe I could try out a local pickup builder or something, describe what I like and see what they can offer.
I don't think so. I don't find them any less middy than any other pickups I've tried. I do use them "backwards" though, with the bar towards the neck, if that makes any difference.Don't you find the cl/lf lacking in mids? I'm a fan though.
This is the obvious comment, but I didn't see that you said you did this: lower the hell out of the bass side of the neck and raise the bass side of the bridge a bit. I'm not suggesting you keep the pups, but this could be the cheap way out.I'm going to wait until I get a chance to play with this with some volume.... but would I be crazy to pick up another set of CL/LF to replace the M7s?
I say this because - my best sounding guitar, to my taste, is my S7420, which has the CL/LF set in it. If I plug into my interface directly and just look at the DI signal, it's pretty clear that the bridge M7 is lacking low end, but is kinda spiky in the highs. The crunchlab by comparison sounds full and the highs are still there, but aren't pokey.
I find it weird that the neck M7 is LOUD and FULL OF BASS, enough to warrant ALL CAPS, but in the bridge? It's thin. I looked at the wiring and everything looks fine to me. The wires were spliced in, sure, but they were soldered together so.... seems fine?
Either that or - maybe I could try out a local pickup builder or something, describe what I like and see what they can offer.
Have you bought your's 2137S off "pedals-R-us" by any chance ?Nice catch!
I've got an RGD2127z and a RGDR3127s (neon purple Axe Palace version). The neck on the 3127 is just a tad chunkier than the one on my 2127z. The Lo-Pro bridge is always epic, although I had no problems with the Edge Zero on the 2127. The only other appreciable difference is the pickup routes. I went Duncan Nazgul on the 2127, but still have the Dimarzio Edges on the 3127.
The standard 10-59 strings always felt a bit light to me at A, while 11-64s were way too heavy at that tuning. I settled on tuning my RGDs both to Bb with NYXL 1059 strings for just the right amount of tension & thickness for my playing.