NJ series Virgin

[Axiom Divine]

Hey guys...

I was wondering if anyone could give me any info on my old 6er.

It's a BC Rich NJ series Virgin with floyd rose tremolo. It's got diamond inlays and all black hardware. The serial is where the bolt-on neck is located. The # is 002060450. I've googled it, but none of the models that come up are similar...Either it's the newer ones or it's older ones with that speedloader feature on it.

Basically what I'm asking is, what is it worth and what is the reputation for NJ series guitars, specifically the Virgin?

 

[Ironbird]

The NJ series Riches are good guitars. They aren't worth much (as with most Import Riches) but they are highly-reliable. The only weakness of your guitar would be the Licensed Floyd and the stock pickups.

Why don't you head on to BC Rich Players - An Online Community and Gallery Showcase and register as a member? The other guys will be able to tell you a whole lot more.

 

[Rev2010]

I used to have one and loved it. Still kicking myself for selling it to a friend. He later died of cancer and his wife refused to sell it back to me. Is yours with the original normal headstock? I can't stand those ridiculous looking widow headstocks on the Virgin.


Rev.

 

[Axiom Divine]

Yeah, you can't see it in the pic, but it's got the widow headstock...

Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking of selling, but had no idea what to list it for.

...and about the FR Tremolo - I couldn't wait to get my 7 with a fixed bridge. No more cautious palm-muting.

 

[Rev2010]

I used to be a Floyd user myself and went TOM with my 7 string (Schecter Blackjack C-7, the earlier one with Duncans) and haven't looked back. I recently bought a 6 string, a cheapo Jackson Kelly because only the cheap ones have TOM. Just gonna upgrade the pickups and cheaper parts. But yeah, Floyd's have always been a huuuge pain in the ass for me and I almost never used the whammy bar except for a dive bomb once in a blue. My Boss GT-8 has divebomb and whammy effects in it that actually sound great, not fake. So now I just use that when needed, which is very rare.


Rev.

 

[Axiom Divine]

Yep the the whole tuning and restringing thing is a nightmare for me. I dreaded having to put on new strings.

My apologies in advance for the newb question, but what is TOM?

 

[13point9]

Tune-o-matic bridge

floyd's should take only 10-20 minutes tops if you make sure to use the exact same strings...

 

[Axiom Divine]

Tune-o-matic bridge

floyd's should take only 10-20 minutes tops if you make sure to use the exact same strings...

Thanks for the info...maybe I should have watched some videos for tips on how to make the restringing process easier. My time was more like 45 -1hr lol

 

[13point9]

Thanks for the info...maybe I should have watched some videos for tips on how to make the restringing process easier. My time was more like 45 -1hr lol

first times i did it i failed hard, When I get a new guitar or want to change, brand gauge or tuning, I get it set up professionally the first time, then everytime after that, the bridge pretty much falls in line straight away when restringing =)

I replace the strings one by one never take them all off...

 

[Rev2010]

10-20 minutes!?? No friggin way, it takes 10 minutes or maybe a little more to simply string and tune up a TOM guitar. Floyd's take longer and that's well known, unless of course you're a guru tech, but most aren't. I've been playing 19 years and Floyd's were *always* a PITA even when using the same gauge strings.


Rev.

 

[13point9]

10-20 minutes!?? No friggin way, it takes 10 minutes or maybe a little more to simply string and tune up a TOM guitar. Floyd's take longer and that's well known, unless of course you're a guru tech, but most aren't. I've been playing 19 years and Floyd's were *always* a PITA even when using the same gauge strings.


Rev.

20 mins to replace strings and level out, 3 days for it to actually STAY in tune after playing (fucking LFR's)

or i just get lost in time doing it hahaha

and no im deffo not a guru lol

 

[Necris]

10-20 minutes!?? No friggin way, it takes 10 minutes or maybe a little more to simply string and tune up a TOM guitar. Floyd's take longer and that's well known, unless of course you're a guru tech, but most aren't. I've been playing 19 years and Floyd's were *always* a PITA even when using the same gauge strings.


Rev.

When I sold my Jackson DKMG to a guy the whole process of cleaning the Fretboard, cleaning and polishing the frets and restringing the Floyd Rose took about 30 minutes and that was the first time I'd ever restrung a Floyd Rose.
That said, I'm almost certain it was a fluke and have no intention of ever getting another guitar with a Floyd Rose.

 

[Rev2010]

Well, I don't know if you guys are really timing these things, I know I haven't, but when I dealt with Floyd's it was always a seemingly long process - leveling the tuners tuning to pitch, unlocking and relocking, sometimes having to tighten or lossen the claw, etc. But, I guess I should mention that all this hassle really was when I had my guitars tuned down to C. Never really had this problem in E, though that really shouldn't make much a difference I guess. But even with my TOM and wire clipping the strings off the posts seemed to take at least 15 solid minutes. So Floyds definitely took me longer.


Rev.

 

[Axiom Divine]

I got mine set up for drop C tuning, so I never had a problem with the bridge, I just screwed up by taking off all the strings at once. I like to have a good cleaning when I restring and you can't really do that when they're on there.

The bridge would always be nice and level, I guess it was just how tedious it was getting the thing back in tune. It's weird being able to try different tunings on the fly now!

 

[MaxOfMetal]

A proper FR set-up should only take about 5 minutes. If you're constantly locking and re-locking, as well as playing the "balance game" while tuning then you're doing it way wrong.

Just follow this guide and FR's will be an absolute breeze to maintain, as well as tune, and set-up.

Max's Guide To Trem Set-up

What you'll need:
Allen Keys for adjusting your particular system, and locking nut.
A new set of strings.
A tube of Chapstick.
A screw driver. (fro adjusting trem spring claw)
Tremolo Bar (should go without saying)
An electronic tuner.
A pair of wire cutters.
A bottle of Naptha.
Some Q-tips.
Something to block off your trem.

Step one: Start From Anew

Basically, the first step is to get everything in cleaned and prepped.

1) Unlock locking nut pads, it helps to remove them fully.
2) Remove the backplate from your guitar.
3) Remove old strings at the tuners on the headstock.
4) Remove old strings from the saddles on the bridge, then re-tighten the saddles, so the small pads are not able to fall out.
5) Remove the springs from the trem claw, and bottom of the trem block.
6) Place tremolo claw at it's halfway mark.
7) Remove entire trem unit from the guitar.
8) Take a Q-tip and dip it in the Naptha, then rub it along the grooves of your trem posts. Do this until the Q-tips stop going black from all the grime/dust.
9) Do the same as step 7 to your trems knife edges.(Take this time to examine your trems knife edges. If they're heavly worn, then I reccommend looking into a replacemnt unit.)
10) Take the chapstick and rub a liberal amount on your fingers (thumb and forefinger), then rub it onto the trem's knife edges with your thumb and forefinger in a pinching motion.
11) Place the trems fine tuners at thier halfway mark.

Step two: Putting Humpty Dumpty back together again

1) Place your trem back inside it's route, with the knife edges well seated in there grooves on the trem posts.
2) Place a single spring back on the trem block, and trem claw. (the middle one)
3) Using your tremolo bar, and whatever you have to block your trem, such as wooden blocks, lexan sheets, or a Tremol-No, block your trem at it's proper angle. For most OFRs and LFRs, it's to get the baseplate parallel with the top of the guitar. For some LFRs and Ibanez trems, you'll need to place the saddles parrallel to the guitar's top.
4) Now put on the other springs.
5) Now install the strings.
6) Once the strings are installed, tune them to their desired pitch. You're trem shouldn't be moving at all if it's properly blocked.
7) Once stretch and retune your strings, until they have settled.

Step three: The fun begins

1) For the last time, tune your strings with the tuners on the headstock. They should be fully stretched.
2) Lock down the locking nut pads. This should knock your strings slightly out of tune.
3) Tune with your trem's fine tuners. Since they are halfway, you should have plenty of travel.
4) Once you've fully tuned up with your fine tuners, remove whatever was blocking your guitar's trem.
5) OH NO! THE TREM IS NO LONGER AT THE RIGHT ANGLE AND I'M COMPLETELY OUT OF TUNE!!! No fear, this is where the beauty of the double locking system comes into play. Simply tighten the trem spring claw into the body if the trem is too far up (the strings are reading as flat on the tuner) and loosen the spring claw if the trem is too far down (the strings are reading sharp on the tuner). If done properly (adjusting the trem claw) as soon as the trem is back at it's proper angle, you should be FULLY in tune.

Now play around with it, it should be very stable compared to how it once was.

 

[Ironbird]

OR...

Get a Kahler equipped guitar. Specifically, one with the Kahler Hybrid. The strings won't go out of tune when you palm mute, and you can lock it and turn it into a fixed bridge in 5 seconds. Changing strings take no more than 3 minutes (excluding the time it takes to stretch the strings, tune up, etc) and the fine-tuners are far more accurate than the ones on Floyds.

I've had LFR/OFR equipped guitars (on guitars with different neck joints, string gauges, pickups etc) and even though they are good bridges, it takes a considerable force to divebomb or pull-up with them as opposed to Kahlers. It takes the same amount of force to dive or pull-up. Yet another benefit of the Kahlers.