Official Axe-Fx Q&A thread!

[orb451]

Simple Axe-FX question: Why do some people prefer a tube power amp and a guitar cab over the monitor speaker solution?

Depends on their ears man, some people just *prefer* that tube sound and others prefer the FRFR sound. It really goes back to the individual... and the most important question is not what other people prefer, or why, but what *you* prefer. What sounds good to your ears is what matters most, it's your money and your gear. Choose wisely!

Are the cab simulations just not great? Or does the tube power amp let the Axe-FX cut the mix and sound like a real amp a bit more?

I think the stock cabs are pretty good starting points. Between those choices and the choices you have for EQ, etc, you've got a *lot* of ground covered. The trick is to tweak with your *ears*, not your eyes. Don't dial up a RectoNew sim and Recto2 cab on the axe and think you're done... that whatever forum x, y or z says you should dial a *real* recto to, will get you there on the AxeFX. More often than not, it won't. But there's Wikis, tutorials, the Axe forums and YT for sharing/creating patches. I use 2 QSC K10s and while some will say they're not the *best* option, I'm happy with the way they sound. To me I can get *tube* sounds and feel from stock cabs and these monitors. YMMV.

Is there anything you lose out on by using a tube poweramp? For example, does a regular guitar cab have the range to do some of the more "wacky" effects that the axe-fx is capable of?

I don't know of any *loss*, maybe others could comment... I think it's the job of the speaker/cab/monitor to reproduce frequencies, not sure how much special sauce could be *missing* from a tube power amp. To most folks, if anything, the tube amp *adds* that special sauce. But again, it's up to you to decide.

If I go to the tube power amp route, will I still have to have the volume fairly high to get good tones? I need this to work at bedroom volumes, so maybe the active Atomic FR cab is the best solution?

Hopefully someone else will field this one. My understanding is that no, you don't have to have them cranked at all, as they are adding some of their own flavor to the mix, but most of the *ooomph* is still coming from Axe and how it is dialed in. The patches will definitely sound different at low and high volumes, but to my knowledge there's no prerequisite that it be *cranked* to really shine when playing solo or jamming...

One last question, I promise! How does an powered Atomic cab compare to a QSC K series speaker (or behringer truth/etc)? They should be very similar, other than tube vs. solid, correct? Any recommendations here, considering the similar price range? Does one blow the other out of the water?

That's a whole can of worms. Despite being at similar price points, and having similar goals, I think *how* they accomplish that is what makes them very different. I don't think they'll sound similar, nor should they. I don't know which one is *better*. I use the K series and like it. Maybe I'd like the atomic cab more if I tried it... don't know until I do. Same with you, you're gonna need to get the box and pick a route and hopefully get some ideas along the way (clips, forums, etc). You might find that the Atomic is more suited to you, or might find the opposite. The plus side is that no matter which way you go, if you just buy *one* and try it out, you can get *some* of your coin back should you opt to sell it.

Good luck

 

[TheGuitarPit]

Good luck

I really appreciate the answers. I guess since the price point is the same, I'll give the active Atomic FR a shot first. That way I can get a tube power amp and FR speakers all in one box.

Worst case, I doubt I'll have much trouble selling it.

 

[trenolds39]

Sorry to bump this so soon, but it's driving me insane that I can't get any of the gain amps to sound decent; they all sound like a ss crate amp with a blanket over them. I've got power amp and cab sim active with a passive tonestack. I've messed with the global eq, boosting some of the higher frequencies and dropping some of the lower but the muddyness is still there. I've played with the tweeter setting on the cab but it doesn't really help either.

I'm using the recto new amp with a 4x12 recto1 cab in the signal chain to keep things simple for troubleshooting. I've read that they suggest putting a param eq after the cab when using a fr cab, but I didn't want to mess with that right now. I realize this isn't supposed to sound exactly like a tube amp in the room, but currently it sounds like a muddy solid-state amp and I can't seem to figure out what settings need to be changed for a proper sound using a powered fr cab.

I've been reading around about getting started with setting up the axe-fx and atomic fr to sound right, and was hoping someone here could give me a tutorial on setting up a simple metal sound with something like the energyball or recto sim.

Straight out of the box the sound is very muffled and this is probably due to the flat response of the cab. I've got cab and power amp simulation turned on, but if I go to any particular preset with gain it sounds very muffled and not tube-like at all. What settings should I change to improve the sound the most? I'm still getting used to navigating the interface and would like to be able to get at least one patch to sound good so I can convince myself that I will keep the atomic cab.

 

[emperor_black]

Is your input level high enough that when you play a chord, the red light should lights up for a second and goes off?

Trying adding TS808 Mod in front of amp with gain all the way down and level around 8.

Sorry to bump this so soon, but it's driving me insane that I can't get any of the gain amps to sound decent; they all sound like a ss crate amp with a blanket over them. I've got power amp and cab sim active with a passive tonestack. I've messed with the global eq, boosting some of the higher frequencies and dropping some of the lower but the muddyness is still there. I've played with the tweeter setting on the cab but it doesn't really help either.

I'm using the recto new amp with a 4x12 recto1 cab in the signal chain to keep things simple for troubleshooting. I've read that they suggest putting a param eq after the cab when using a fr cab, but I didn't want to mess with that right now. I realize this isn't supposed to sound exactly like a tube amp in the room, but currently it sounds like a muddy solid-state amp and I can't seem to figure out what settings need to be changed for a proper sound using a powered fr cab.

 

[trenolds39]

Is your input level high enough that when you play a chord, the red light should lights up for a second and goes off?

Trying adding TS808 Mod in front of amp with gain all the way down and level around 8.

Yes, I calibrated the input so that it barely touches the red when I strike a chord hard. I went through Yek's faq on the axefx wiki and couldn't find a direct answer. I've also tried using an overdrive in front as you suggested and it doesn't help relieve the muffled sound

 

[orb451]

Yes, I calibrated the input so that it barely touches the red when I strike a chord hard. I went through Yek's faq on the axefx wiki and couldn't find a direct answer. I've also tried using an overdrive in front as you suggested and it doesn't help relieve the muffled sound

Alright man, here's some settings from some patches I use. Not saying they're *right* or even *good*, just how I do things and I don't hear any muffling... if anything, these settings rip my fucking ears off at high volumes. I am using them with QSC K10's, and I realize those are different than your Atomics, but hopefully the ideas will carry over:

Preset1


Settings:

Gate: Thresh: -40
Att: 10ms
Hold: 100ms
Rel: 100ms
Ratio: 2.01
Scsel: None
Lowcut: 10Hz
Highcut: 20,000Hz
Level: 0db
Bal: 0
Byp Mode: Thru

Amp1: Global: Off
Type: Euro Uber (boost on)
Drive: 7.01
Bass: 7.01
Mid: 5.98
Treble: 7.09 (bright on)
Pres: 7.01
Depth: 0
Damp: 4.49
Sag: 2.01
Master: 2.99
Level: -11.50db
Input: Sum L+R
Warmth: 0
Thump: 0
Low-Cut: 20.3Hz
High-Cut: 8006Hz
Bright Cap: 0.502nf
Tonestack: Passive
Tonestack Freq: 650Hz
Tone Loc: Post
Pres Freq: 1497Hz
Bias: 0.350
B+: 4.65
Transformer LF: 40.4Hz
Transformer HF: 17938Hz
LF Res: 2.60
HF Res: 7.20
Speaker Res: 95Hz
Stabilizer: Off
Pres/Depth: Passive
Level: -11.50db
Balance: 50.0

Cab1: Mode: Stereo
Air: 35.0%
Air Freq: 3494Hz
CabL: Recto2
Mic: None
CabR: 4x12German
Mic: None
Link: Off
LevelL: 0
LevelR: 0
PanL: 0
PanR: 0
DriveL: 2.05
DriveR: 2.05
Level: 0db
Bal: 50.0

Amp2: Global: OFF
Type: DasMetal (boost on)
Drive: 4.06
Bass: 7.05
Mid: 7.05
Treble: 9.06 (bright on)
Pres: 8.03
Depth: 5.00
Damp: 7.52
Sag: 4.02
Master: 2.99
Level: -17.75db
Input: Sum L+R
Warmth: 0
Thump: 0
Low-Cut: 100.0Hz
High-Cut: 6988Hz
BrightCap: 1.000nf
Tonestack: Passive
Tonestack Freq: 599Hz
Tone Loc: Post
Pres Freq: 3010Hz
Bias: 0.350
B+: 5.67
TransformerLF: 20.3Hz
TransformerHF: 20,000Hz
LF Res: 4.02
HF Res: 5.00
Speaker Res: 70Hz
Stabilizer: Off
Pres/Depth: Passive
Level: -17.75db
Bal: -50.0

Cab2: Mode: Stereo
Air: 35.0%
Air Freq: 3494Hz
CabL: User1 (substitute 4x12 V30)
Mic: None
CabR: 4x12 30W
Mic: None
Link: Off
LevelL: 0db
LevelR: 0db
PanL: 0
PanR: 0
DriveL: 0 (because custom cab, otherwise set as Right)
DriveR: 2.05
Level: 0db
Bal: -50.0

GEQ: 63: -8db
125: -5.5db
250: -3.0db
500: 0.0db
1K: -1.0db
2K: 1.0db
4K: -3.5db
8K: 0.0db

Delay: set however you want, just added for some added texture.

Enhancer: Also not necessary, but if wanted
Width: 13.0%
Invert: Left
Pan Left: -50.0
Pan Right: 50.0
Bal: 0.0

General Axe settings:
Input Source: Analog Front
Audio: Input 1 Select: Left Only
Input 2 Select: Left Only
Output 1 Mode: Stereo
Output 1 Phase: Normal
Output 2 Phase: Normal
Copy Out1 to Out2: ON

Global: Config:
Power Amp: ON
Cabinet: Active
Default Tonestack: Passive
Spillover: Both
Out1 EQ: Flat
Out2 EQ: Flat

Some other tips are, like the other guy mentioned, throw an OD pedal in front of your amp(s). Start with a blank preset, add 1 amp and 1 cab, select the amp you want, tweak with your EARS, not your eyes. Default "metal" cabs might be: 4x12 V30, Recto2 and some others. Start with either of those though. Make sure your global settings match what I put above. I can't think of a reason why it should sound like someone threw a blanket over the speaker, maybe your Atomic is defective? More likely it's just some setting somewhere that needs to be tweaked.

Also check clean presets, are *any* of them bright and chimey? You should find several stock clean presets that are pretty bright... if they sound alright, it might be the way you have your high gain amps dialed in. Always select an amp and start with the defaults, that's why it's better to create a blank preset with nothing in it, and add just the amp and cab first. No eq, nothing else. Get things in a *ballpark* and then start screwing around with GEQ's, ParaEQ's, multiband compressors, etc.

The preset above is just a reference, feel free to swap in and out different amps to see how they behave *stock* before editing anything else. Just to get ideas/direction.

Hope that helps

 

[Andromalia]

Also remember, as I'm happy enough to have many guitars, that the axefx really makes it known to your ears you have switched pickups...that means some presets will sound good and some really bad when used with the same guitar.
If it's any consolation to you, it took me roughly three months to really know what I was doing with the stuff.

Rule 1: it should sound decent with amp-cab and nothing else. EQing and such should remove small issues, but won't fix bigger ones. (Well, they can fix them, but they woud create others...)

Try to get your hands on some untreated recordings of single guitars to know where you want to aim.

 

[trenolds39]

settings

Thanks for taking the time to post all that. I actually went through and set it all exactly to that and the overall problem remains. I'm having a difficult time properly describing what is exactly wrong with the tone as terms like "muffled" and "muddy" don't tell much. I'm baffled because although the tone I can hear sounds decent, it sounds like I am taking it and running it through an old cassette player, or as if the speakers themselves are in a different room or facing the floor. I realize that using the frfr won't sound exactly like a tube amp in the room, but the sound I am getting is in no way representative of any clips I have heard of the axe thus far, direct or mic'd through a cab (or whatever people are doing when not going direct).

I even ran the axe through my DSL100 and 1960a cab last night to see if it was the atomic cab, and although it did sound slightly different the same issue with no clarity still remained. I also found it odd that it sounded signficantly better with power amp and cab simulation on when running through an actual power amp and cab.

I understand that I shouldn't simply be able to plug my guitar in and get the perfect tone with stock settings, but I am very discouraged at how poor the audio quality is compared to my tube amps, even my crate ss amp at this point. I've played with seemingly every setting and eq and can't seem to figure out why this issue still remains. I'm probably going to keep the axe as I will probably figure it out and can't really use a 100w tube amp anymore, but I'm debating whether or not I should send the atomic cab back this week as I received it last Monday and have 15 days to decide (I think). I really don't have any other things to run the axe off of for testing, nor do I have anything to input audio to the atomic cab for testing that either. I've just heard numerous people with great results using the atomic cab and am wondering if there is a better option for someone who prefers the "in the room" sound as that is what I'm used to, but considering I was still having the same issue doing just that with my Marshall I truly am at a loss as to what the issue might be.

Thanks again.

 

[orb451]

Thanks again.

No problem. Start with the basics, amp + cab (nothing else) and see if you can get *anything* close to what you're looking for. Remember, tweak with your ears, not your eyes. Also, it's not completely unheard of to run a power amp (and cab) and *still* have power amp and cab sims turned on. If that started to get you part of the way there, go back to it and try it again, and this time keep tweaking those knobs till it gets closer and closer to the ball park you're looking for.

And if not, you can return them... Also, is there any way to get to a GC nearby or something equivalent with *any* powered PA speakers? Even if they're not FRFR, but something close, it might be worth it to take the Axe and a guitar down and plug them in as well. If they sound like complete ass too, it might be something in the axe... If not, it could be those Atomics.

Good luck

 

[JP Universe]

Currently I have a single rectifier and a mesa 2x12. After finally going to my friends place and trying an Axe FX through small active studio monitors I was blown away . Come July (tax return) I'm thinking of selling my current gear and making the upgrade as i'm not currently playing live (been about 3 years now)....

I also want to get some speakers for my mini home studio set up, I have electronic drum kit (Alesis dm10) and a zoom mrs 16 track. I use my boss GT 6 for effects and amp sims (AXEFX to replace)

There are a couple of options to consider...

1. Sell the head and my Boss GT 6 and keep the 2x12 and buy a power amp, also buy some relatively cheap Studio monitors for the drums and studio. (Leaning towards this option)

2. Sell the 2x12 with the head and buy some powered speakers (K 10s or something?) to use for the AXE, Mixing and my drums

3. Keep everything and buy more gear.


What would you do? (I've got 4 - 5 months research to do anyways but just curious to hear your thoughts)

 

[trenolds39]

There's a music store here that may have some. I can take it in within the next few days and check it out. Unfortunately, being located in Kansas there aren't many people that probably use rack units, although I do know of a few members here that are in KC and have the unit. I'm probably coming off as bashing the unit but I can actually hear good tone, it's just buried underneath some crap. I can't really see how the unit could be defective to cause something like this but I'm truly stumped as to what could be causing it. Whatever the case, I intend on using the axe in the future as I've heard some excellent tones from other people and I'll hopefully achieve that as well in the future.

In the event I do end up returning the atomic, what are some good monitor(s) in the same price range roughly? I'd like something that can give a response similar to a guitar amp, but more importantly something I can use at bedroom volumes. I've been looking at the KRK Rockit 8's as they would fall under my price range and would have more uses than just a guitar amp. I can tell that the atomic can definitely feel like a guitar amp, but it's ultimately too much for my needs.

While I'm on the topic of stuff I don't need, I've got some Beyerdynamic DT770 headphones that would probably work for going direct into an interface. I've heard some things about the M-Audio fast track pro mobile interface; what interface would you recommend for an asus laptop running windows? I'm really just looking for an interface that I can use for recording on my laptop and playing with headphones, as well as being update to update firmware and patches on the axe-fx.

No problem. Start with the basics, amp + cab (nothing else) and see if you can get *anything* close to what you're looking for. Remember, tweak with your ears, not your eyes. Also, it's not completely unheard of to run a power amp (and cab) and *still* have power amp and cab sims turned on. If that started to get you part of the way there, go back to it and try it again, and this time keep tweaking those knobs till it gets closer and closer to the ball park you're looking for.

And if not, you can return them... Also, is there any way to get to a GC nearby or something equivalent with *any* powered PA speakers? Even if they're not FRFR, but something close, it might be worth it to take the Axe and a guitar down and plug them in as well. If they sound like complete ass too, it might be something in the axe... If not, it could be those Atomics.

Good luck

 

[Sepultorture]

There's a music store here that may have some. I can take it in within the next few days and check it out. Unfortunately, being located in Kansas there aren't many people that probably use rack units, although I do know of a few members here that are in KC and have the unit. I'm probably coming off as bashing the unit but I can actually hear good tone, it's just buried underneath some crap. I can't really see how the unit could be defective to cause something like this but I'm truly stumped as to what could be causing it. Whatever the case, I intend on using the axe in the future as I've heard some excellent tones from other people and I'll hopefully achieve that as well in the future.

In the event I do end up returning the atomic, what are some good monitor(s) in the same price range roughly? I'd like something that can give a response similar to a guitar amp, but more importantly something I can use at bedroom volumes. I've been looking at the KRK Rockit 8's as they would fall under my price range and would have more uses than just a guitar amp. I can tell that the atomic can definitely feel like a guitar amp, but it's ultimately too much for my needs.

While I'm on the topic of stuff I don't need, I've got some Beyerdynamic DT770 headphones that would probably work for going direct into an interface. I've heard some things about the M-Audio fast track pro mobile interface; what interface would you recommend for an asus laptop running windows? I'm really just looking for an interface that I can use for recording on my laptop and playing with headphones, as well as being update to update firmware and patches on the axe-fx.

i could reccomend QSC K and KW series or Mackie HD series, but i dunno if they would fall to your price range.

studio monitors would be excellent for home use, i had a good go with the KRK rockit 8's

as for the atomics, from what i've heard they have a preamp tube in them, i'm not fully sure never looked into it, the tube type dynamics, feel and response couploed with the axe fx may be introducing this muddy effect, so it probably sound like you MIGHT have a defective atomic, who knows, but heck experiement if you can with different FRFR solutions long before you give up on the axe, travel far if you must, i sure would to find the right setup

 

[orb451]

Questions...

If you can stomach it (or your wallet can), keep everything until you've got all the kit. Then sort out what is redundant and/or not needed any longer and sell it.

I have the QSC K10's, I would *not* recommend them for mixing/monitoring. They're fine for playing around and whatnot and in theory *should* be OK as studio monitors. I wouldn't go this route if you don't have to. Get some cheapie studio monitors (Rokit 5's or something along those lines - MAudio BX5's maybe?) And then later on decide what amp/cab/FRFR solution you want to roll with.

 

[Lorcan Ward]

How close can the Axe Fx get to Protest the Hero(Fortress)/Necrophagist(Epitaph) tones?

 

[JP Universe]

If you can stomach it (or your wallet can), keep everything until you've got all the kit. Then sort out what is redundant and/or not needed any longer and sell it.

I have the QSC K10's, I would *not* recommend them for mixing/monitoring. They're fine for playing around and whatnot and in theory *should* be OK as studio monitors. I wouldn't go this route if you don't have to. Get some cheapie studio monitors (Rokit 5's or something along those lines - MAudio BX5's maybe?) And then later on decide what amp/cab/FRFR solution you want to roll with.

All good, after doing some research last night i've decided that I am going to sell the rect head and get an AxeFX and some decent studio monitors. This will keep me going at home till I join a band or whatever again in which I can get a power amp and a midi controller and I will be all set for home and live use. Will keep the GT 6 as a backup and it's multiple uses that if offers. (not worth selling it)

 

[emperor_black]

How close can the Axe Fx get to Protest the Hero(Fortress)/Necrophagist(Epitaph) tones?

Depends on the ear/skill/patience/time/gear of the person trying.

 

[StatutoryGape]

Soo after months and months of saving and such, the day finally had come to order my ultra....yup their sold out. whoomp whoomp

 

[gunshow86de]

Soo after months and months of saving and such, the day finally had come to order my ultra....yup their sold out. whoomp whoomp

I've seen a few in the classifieds in the last week or so, don't know if they are still available but keep checking 'em.

 

[gzd]

Hi guys, In a couple of days my Axe-Fx is going to get here, and I wanted to know if there really is a significant difference between Usb and Firewire interfaces for recording the Axe-Fx, I currently have an M-Audio fast track pro, will it be sufficient enough to get good results with?
Thanks!

 

[trenolds39]

It's me again, haha. I've not had the chance to try the axe through any other monitors, but I have also tried it through my Marshall DSL100 as well as Peavey 5150 and I have the same complaint. However, I think it is a case of me not understanding how to eq the axe, as well as not being directly in front of the wedge while playing. I noticed that I have to be sitting right in front of the wedge looking at it to clearly hear what I am playing. Although this makes sense considering it is a wedge shape so that it can be right in front of you, but I don't think it's the best option for bedroom playing unless I want to be facing it constantly.

Although it would save me money to go with Rockits or smaller monitors instead, I'd rather not sacrifice the dynamics I get with a setup like the atomic although I may get some in the future. I'd be willing to get a Mackie monitor (HD1531?) if the general consensus is that it sounds better overall than the atomic. The more I play with the axe, the better it sounds but I'm still not satisfied with the sound compared to my tube amps.

Long story short, should I send the atomic back and shell out the $350 or so to get the mackie monitor instead? Which Mackie is the best for under $1200? The HD1531?