"Orpheus" build thread - danish luthier (pic fix now)

IkarusOnFire

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Finally I get to do a build thread! While the project is only slowly progressing, I will share with you, what I have.

The guitar is named Orpheus and designed by myself, with inspiration from different brands. The builder can be found here: JEH Guitars: Guitarbygning til rimelige priser - Home (the site is in Danish, but pictures speak for themselves). He build my other guitar, Íkarus.

The specs are as follows:

# strings: 7
Headstock: custom reverse 3+4, angled 14 *
Scale: 25.5" Fretboard: macassar ebony 12-16" compund radius
Neck: 3 pc Set-thru wenge/kauri
Body: 2pc ancient kauri
Body Shape: Modified super-strat
Body finish: Natural gloss
Body binding: Flamed maple
Top: bookmatched bubinga, 16-0-16" radius
Neck finish: oiled neck binding: flamed maple
Truss rod cov: Wooden with "JEH" inlay Headstock logo: MOP (logo to be decided later)
Headstock inlay: Backside of headstock: a small heart in MOP
headstock binding: flamed maple
Side dots: Black
Hardware color: gold
Control knobs: 1 vol, 1 tone, recessed
Switch: 5-way Jackstick: recessed
Pickups: BKP Black dog(b) BKP Black dog (n)
Pickup rings: none (direct mounted pups)
Strap locks: Dunlop flushmounted Locking
Frets: Macassar ebony Jescar EVO frets 5710 (FW57110-EVO)
Scalloped 15-24
Tuners: Hipshot locking
Bridge: OFR 7 string
Nut: locking nut

So...that side, here are the first progress pics =)

43%20%281%29.jpg
431.jpg
433.jpg
434.jpg
43_3d.jpg

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IkarusOnFire

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The locking tuners do make for quicker re-strings.

I prefer to have locking tuners when I re-string my guitar. It's just easier. Even if I do have a floating trem, it's nice to just lock the string into place =) (It helps me get a tighter string wind)

- On a side note, the pictures should work now. My apologies!
 

Necromagnon

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Is that the kauri body? (it doesn't look like bubinga).
If yes, please tell me why you're hiding behind a top (even if it's bubinga). So, I'll ask you to send it to me and I will send you back a wood that can be hidden without remorse. :D
 

IkarusOnFire

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Is that the kauri body? (it doesn't look like bubinga).
If yes, please tell me why you're hiding behind a top (even if it's bubinga). So, I'll ask you to send it to me and I will send you back a wood that can be hidden without remorse. :D

I like a guitar to have all sides look great. I've really enjoyed the look of bubinga for years - and tonally it makes a perfect match with a kauri body (imo). So it's not to hide anything in particular - the ancient kauri is for sound and for that "uniqueness" of the guitar. It brings some story to the guitar, and should sound like koa :)
I needed two thick slabs to do this - body and top will be almost equally thick :)
 

Necromagnon

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I like a guitar to have all sides look great. I've really enjoyed the look of bubinga for years - and tonally it makes a perfect match with a kauri body (imo). So it's not to hide anything in particular - the ancient kauri is for sound and for that "uniqueness" of the guitar. It brings some story to the guitar, and should sound like koa :)
I needed two thick slabs to do this - body and top will be almost equally thick :)
About tonal influence of wood, see my post in the appropriate thread... :D

I love bubinga also. My upcoming bass will have a bubinga top, on black kimba body. Looks simply awesome.
 

IkarusOnFire

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I got some progress pictures for you -the bound fretboard and the neck :) The fretboard (macassar ebony) is bound in flamed maple and the neck's skunk stripe is made from kauri, the other wood wenge.

436.jpg


437.jpg


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439a.jpg


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4312.jpg
 

Necromagnon

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The fretboard looks much more rosewood than ebony (even makassar). It's very purplish.
Anyway, it looks great! :cheers:
 

IkarusOnFire

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The fretboard does have a rosewood look to it - though the light on the pictures makes it stand out more red/purplish than it is :)

Oh, also on the body and headshape: the headstock does look like a ran, but the lower side (with the 4 tuning screws) actually has a slight incurve on the middle. It's shaped over a jackson 3x3 headstock with some adjustements obviously (it's really quite difficult to make a headstock no one has done before :idea:). Here's a closeup on the headstock design, to show to curves I'm talking about:

headstock_design_03.png


The body is shaped over a chris broderick model yes, however the horns have been changed quite radically :) It's almost a mixture of a chris brod model and a suhr modern with longer horns :)
 
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