Pics of Custom 7 string baritone...

[shotgunn]

Hey Guys,

I began designing this in April '09. I began construction in May '09. Here are some pics of my progress. I took some classes at The Chicago School of Guitar Making. I also built a 1959 Fender Bassman (all tube hand wired) as well as a Fender Champ Amp. 5 watts of pure tube glory.

Anyway, here are the pics. Let me know what you think.

The goop you see on the headstock is epoxy from setting the carbon fiber neck reinforcements.

Thanx,

shotgunn

 

[Rorschach]

Looks interesting. Please post more.

Cheers!

 

[Apophis]

looks nice so far, update soon

 

[shotgunn]

Here are my specs:

Finish: Translucent Black over Flame Maple, solid black on backside..

Binding: Pearloid around body, White around neck and headstock.

Body: Basswood with Flame Maple cap

Neck: Quartersawn Hard Rock Maple

Headstock: 14 degree pitch with Scarf Joint

Fretboard: Madagascar Ebony

Truss Rod: Static non adjustable Carbon Fiber rods. I know, I know, I am breaking ALL conventions, but this is tonally superior. No rattle at all.

Scale: 27", 24 frets

Hardware: All Chrome... Sperzel Tuners, Original Floyd Rose w/ Piezo's

Electronics: Custom GraphTech piezo inserts, GraphTech Hexpander and Acoustiphonic, Fernandes Sustainer, Dimarzio Air Norton and Blaze Custom.

Controls:

3-way pickup selector
3-way Mags-Mix-Piezo
3-way Mags-Mix-MIDI
Mag Volume (w/ split coil push/pull)
Piezo Volume (w/Mid Boost push/pull)
Sustainer Intensity
Sustainer On/Off
Sustainer Mode
Piezo Shelving EQ Hi-Low +/-
MIDI Volume
2 - 1/4" Outputs one for Piezo one for Mags
13-pin Hexpander output


As you can see, I am clearly a memnber of the "More is definitely More" club...

Check out the pics...

shotgunn

 

[technomancer]

Looks like nice work so far

 

[Jeroenofzo]

Looks good man, keep it up. I don't get the switch in the lower horn though. or is it a switch?

 

[shotgunn]

That is the 3-way pickup selector switch. My hands are pretty big, so when I pick on the higher strings (using the neck pickup) my pinky bumps into the 5-way selector. (All of my other guitars are RG's.) I find this very annoying. This is why I chose to move the p/u selector. I borrowed it slightly from Petrucci's layout.

If you look closely you'll see that all of the controls are away from where the right hand would typically be resting. However, they are still reasonably close to my hand to allow for easy tweaks.

The switch by the upper cutaway is the Mags-Mix-Piezo switch. Also borrowed from Petrucci.

I figured since I have 16,384 controls on this guitar, I might as well spread them out. This is an effort to make them more ergonomic.

I have yet to play any guitar that I find truly comfortable. I sure hope this comes out well. Either way, it is a GREAT learning experience.

Thanx,

shotgunn

Looks good man, keep it up. I don't get the switch in the lower horn though. or is it a switch?

 

[Bungle]

This is going to look awesome, looking forward to updates further down the track.

P.S Carbon fibre =

 

[shotgunn]

This is going to look awesome, looking forward to updates further down the track.

P.S Carbon fibre =

Yeah, my instructor HIGHLY recommends it. I had (have) my reservations about it. As of right now, I do not know what I want to tune this guitar to. I know I don't want to go any higher than 'A'. I'm thinking 'G' or maybe 'F#'. I know that one of the limitations of static neck reinforcement is not being able to make drastic changes. Such as string gauges, or tunings.

I'm currently using my CNC milling machine to make the most perfect home made template. Next I will make the control cavity template, most likely with my CNC machine as well.

Check out this image...

shotgunn

 

[shotgunn]

wrong image... oops!!!

 

[shotgunn]

I'm also going to have a KILLSWITCH!!! It will be my first guitar with a Killswitch. I know it's pretty simple, but I'm pretty excited to mess around with some new sounds. I think I'll put it in the lower bout near the output jacks.

Here is what I am using...

Digi-Key - 679-1070-ND (APEM Components - AV19401ZQEUL)

The one shown is actually normally closed, but the picture looks better. I have the normally open one. For now, I keep it in my pocket everywhere I go. Some ask why.......

 

[Hollowway]

Yeah, my instructor HIGHLY recommends it. I had (have) my reservations about it. As of right now, I do not know what I want to tune this guitar to. I know I don't want to go any higher than 'A'. I'm thinking 'G' or maybe 'F#'. I know that one of the limitations of static neck reinforcement is not being able to make drastic changes. Such as string gauges, or tunings.

So what's the story with the carbon fiber rods in terms of neck bow? Do you make it with a slight forward bow, or do you let the strings pull some to give a decent bow, or how does it work?

 

[shotgunn]

So what's the story with the carbon fiber rods in terms of neck bow? Do you make it with a slight forward bow, or do you let the strings pull some to give a decent bow, or how does it work?

So what's the story with the carbon fiber rods in terms of neck bow? Do you make it with a slight forward bow, or do you let the strings pull some to give a decent bow, or how does it work?

I am told that to achieve the desired neck pitch you have to use shims based on the final geometry of the neck. As we all know wood does whatever it wants to do. It might start out straight as an arrow and end up with a slight backbow. I am trying to keep mine as straight as possible and then use shims to alter the neck pitch.

When I am not working on the neck I keep it clamped to my benchtop to resist any desire to bend or twist.

I accidentally left it unclamped for a day or two in extreme humidity. When I realized this I checked it for straightness and found that it had bowed back quite a bit.

So I sanded it nice and flat and square using my sanding station. I use a flat piece a Baltic Birch plywood clamped to my bench. I had to shim it in a couple of places to ensure maximum flativity. I use 120 grit Stewmac adhesive sandpaper, but the adhesive doesn't last too long in humdity. So used Stewmac double stick as reinforcement. Works perfect, even after changing the paper when it wore out.

Next I need to find a way to sand the epoxy off of the headstock while keeping the surface square.

Any tips????? It's a pretty small amount. It took me about 6-8 hours over a few days to sand the neck smooth from all the epoxy squeeze out. I'm worried about distorting the flatness of the headstock. It took a Loooong time to get it flat like it is. I HATE reworking...

Anyway, thanx for your interest.

shogunn

 

[Andrew_B]

Next I need to find a way to sand the epoxy off of the headstock while keeping the surface square.

Any tips????? It's a pretty small amount. It took me about 6-8 hours over a few days to sand the neck smooth from all the epoxy squeeze out. I'm worried about distorting the flatness of the headstock. It took a Loooong time to get it flat like it is. I HATE reworking...

search for a chunk of machined steel....
nothing like a super heavy sanding block to help keep things flat....
i had a real nice steel block that i used for sanding....
but then i practiced my welding on it lol