Quick luthiery/manteinance questions not deserving a thread

[gunch]

How the hell are you supposed to intonate saddles (Wilkinson trem style, for example) with set screws that fasten them down? Detent the string every time you want to move the saddle? Isn't that insane? Is there some kind of advantage to this design that I haven't realized yet?

 

[StringPluckery]

How the hell are you supposed to intonate saddles (Wilkinson trem style, for example) with set screws that fasten them down? Detent the string every time you want to move the saddle? Isn't that insane? Is there some kind of advantage to this design that I haven't realized yet?

Not my favorite design, either.

 

[youngthrasher9]

Solid > Braided

In almost every other application it's the other way around, but for guitar internals 22g solid core is always my first choice.

This is seriously blowing my mind, as I hate finicky braided wire that wants to move around.

 

[Hollowway]

I want to route a couple of bodies for Floyds. I’ve routed before (looooong ago) but my route was a piece of crap, and the bit kept going deeper. So u need a new one. Not looking to save money - I’d rather do this right - but can can anyone recommend a router plus bits, etc, for routing a body cavity with a template? Basically, let me know what all I need, with specifics, if you know. I’ve been googling, and there’s load of info out there, but I’m getting lost. For instance - plunge vs non-plunge router? HP of the router?

 

[MaxOfMetal]

I want to route a couple of bodies for Floyds. I’ve routed before (looooong ago) but my route was a piece of crap, and the bit kept going deeper. So u need a new one. Not looking to save money - I’d rather do this right - but can can anyone recommend a router plus bits, etc, for routing a body cavity with a template? Basically, let me know what all I need, with specifics, if you know. I’ve been googling, and there’s load of info out there, but I’m getting lost. For instance - plunge vs non-plunge router? HP of the router?

This: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-HP-Variable-Speed-Fixed-Corded-Router/999928320

With these: https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...ols/routers-and-bits/ball-bearing-router-bits

You can find cheaper of both, but this would be a ready to go setup.

 

[Hollowway]

This: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-1-HP-Variable-Speed-Fixed-Corded-Router/999928320

With these: https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...ols/routers-and-bits/ball-bearing-router-bits

You can find cheaper of both, but this would be a ready to go setup.

Awesome, thanks! Exactly the information I was hoping to get.

 

[spudmunkey]

Specifically, the style of bits you'd be looking for, to follow a template, would be a "template bit" or a "pattern bit". At first glance, a "flush trim bit" sounds like it might work, but the bearing is on the wrong end.

The Bosch Colt is a G.O.A.T. when it comes to compact/trim-style routers. Though with a route as large as a trem route, I like having better handles for more precise control. That's either a plunge router, or a larger base plate with handles.

A plunge router can either be its own tool, or an attachment for a router like that Bosch.

A base plate can be just a large flat piece of material, though I like to add cabinet knobs on the sides:


If nothing else, it helps the narrow trim/palm router be more stable and helps prevent slight tilts from it being "top heavy"

Though if the intention is to mostly use it for guitar body routes, for that type of routing I'd lean more towards the plunge router i the first place, which generally has a larger base, and a depth stop function.

 

[Hollowway]

Specifically, the style of bits you'd be looking for, to follow a template, would be a "template bit" or a "pattern bit". At first glance, a "flush trim bit" sounds like it might work, but the bearing is on the wrong end.

The Bosch Colt is a G.O.A.T. when it comes to compact/trim-style routers. Though with a route as large as a trem route, I like having better handles for more precise control. That's either a plunge router, or a larger base plate with handles.

A plunge router can either be its own tool, or an attachment for a router like that Bosch.

A base plate can be just a large flat piece of material, though I like to add cabinet knobs on the sides:


If nothing else, it helps the narrow trim/palm router be more stable and helps prevent slight tilts from it being "top heavy"

Though if the intention is to mostly use it for guitar body routes, for that type of routing I'd lean more towards the plunge router i the first place, which generally has a larger base, and a depth stop function.

Do you have a specific plunge router you’d recommend?

 

[spudmunkey]

Do you have a specific plunge router you’d recommend?

Not from experience, no. I only have a shitty B&D from 25 years ago, and wouldn't recommend it. I have it and use it...but wouldn't spend more than $20 on it.

I'd be tempted by the Hercules for $99 from Harbor Freight, but I've never had my hands on it. I wouldn't consider it, though, if it had a single-split collet that wasn't able to be replaced by a better 3 or 4-split collet. For more aggressive material removal and longer routing sessions, the single split have a little less uniform grip on the bit, and can be juuuuuuust a tiny bit off center, creating a tiny bit of extra vibration that I find can loosen up.

 

[pondman]

Awesome, thanks! Exactly the information I was hoping to get.

 

[pondman]

Be careful with that Bosch router. They can be a bit unstable if you don't get a good grip on the body.
That's the one that jumped in the air and landed on the back of my hand. I still use it but with a firm grip.

 

[spudmunkey]

...aaaand that's exactly why I like routers with handles! Even my Milwaukee cordless trim router, the first thing I did before even using it on wood was make a base plate with handles. Though cordless routers are even more tricky to handle as they are so much more top-heavy.

 

[Asdrael]

I have a Triton plunge router which I really like. Something like 200$ new. The big advantages are that it can be table mounted if that is something you want to go for at a later time, but mostly for me is that you have all collet sizes available, from 6mm to 1/2 inch. So all bits are accessible. Most entry level routers are capped at 8mm collet which kinda sucks.

 

[DimMak]

When choosing a after market strat neck, one with a 42mm nut will have a more narrow fretboard from edge to edge than one with a 43mm? Or can you fit different size nuts on the same size fretboard?

 

[Asdrael]

Yes and yes.

The ones sold with a 42mm nut will have a narrower neck. In theory you could however fit a 42mm nut on a 43mm wide neck but the distance from the e and E to the side of the fretboard might feel weird.

 

[SalsaWood]

Has anyone ever gotten hardware plated/coated? I would think anodizing would work for the aluminum components as long as they aren't stripped by an orangutan, right?

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Has anyone ever gotten hardware plated/coated? I would think anodizing would work for the aluminum components as long as they aren't stripped by an orangutan, right?

The trick seems to be finding a place willing to do the work. Every time I've seriously looked into it for myself or someone else the odd shop that's willing to even entertain the idea usually wants so much money it's just not worth it.

Places have been open to stuff like Cerekote though.

I've tried anodizing aluminum and titanium, and I think it you build a decent setup or buy one you can get consistent enough results with practice.

But yeah, striping the parts isn't fun either. Not very hard if you have tools, but definitely tedious.

 

[Rubbishplayer]

Has anyone ever gotten hardware plated/coated? I would think anodizing would work for the aluminum components as long as they aren't stripped by an orangutan, right?

I have had non-guitar components chrome plated before and it can be tough to find someone willing to do the work, especially on smaller parts.

Most commercial places have quite large vats and doing small pieces can be troublesome. Also bear in mind that to plate your piece, it is not just a matter of it being stripped. Your plater will need to attach your part to something so that it can be suspended in the tank, most often using a spot weld. Not practical on small parts (e.g. saddles).

There exist hobbyist solutions, but these are aimed at car restoration enthusiasts and are expensive if you only plan to plate a few small pieces. Plus the plating process is lengthy, requires dangerous chemicals and acids, and is something not undertaken lightly if you want to remain safe.

 

[SalsaWood]

I'm trying to get glossy gold on an already finished black part FWIW. I've been thinking of making a PVD chamber for small parts projects, too many irons in the fire right now though. Would probably be better off settling for some kind of near-gloss cerakote anyways, I like that idea.

 

[eoinbmorg]

I have a tune-o-matic bridge with a 12" radius that I need to adjust to a 16" radius. The difference seems small enough that I can just file the existing grooves a smidge. Should I use my nut files for this? Or am I going to destroy them by filing a metal bridge saddle?