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For my own curiosity’s sake does a d tuna just work for E to D or does it go down 2 semitones no matter
Quick luthiery/manteinance questions not deserving a thread
- Thread starter OmegaSlayer
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You can adjust it a bit, but it only down tunes so much, so the overall setup is going to determine how close or far away from a particular tuning it'll work with.
JimF
Contributor
Could you achieve the required result with a D-Tuna equipped recessed Floyd that has been blocked to dive only?
As long as the trem can't go up it'll work.
slippityslaps
SS.org Regular
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- May 21, 2024
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Wondering if the neck needs to be re-fretted or just recrowned.
Backstory: I have an Ibanez Prestige from 2009 - 2010, with plenty of wear on it over time. Recently gave it a quick truss rod adjustment, very minimal relief, and lowered the action.
I now have inconsistencies with dead frets across the strings, in different places. The action was lowered less than what it used to be, but not unreasonably so, I have another guitar with lower action and it does not have this issue. I'd like to think the action was high enough at one point that uneven frets (due to wear and tear) were masked, but now since I'd like it lower, the issues are surfacing. The fret crowns are visibly wider, indicating all the use I've put it through. Thoughts?
Backstory: I have an Ibanez Prestige from 2009 - 2010, with plenty of wear on it over time. Recently gave it a quick truss rod adjustment, very minimal relief, and lowered the action.
I now have inconsistencies with dead frets across the strings, in different places. The action was lowered less than what it used to be, but not unreasonably so, I have another guitar with lower action and it does not have this issue. I'd like to think the action was high enough at one point that uneven frets (due to wear and tear) were masked, but now since I'd like it lower, the issues are surfacing. The fret crowns are visibly wider, indicating all the use I've put it through. Thoughts?
slippityslaps
SS.org Regular
- Joined
- May 21, 2024
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- 36
- Reaction score
- 23
The nut is a top lock, screws down at the top to prevent erroneous tuning and throw the tremolo out of alignment. Do you think that may still influence it? Initially the first fret across all strings is consistent, but further up the neck, the high E string has higher action than the B and G.
AwakenTheSkies
Life is like a box of chocolates
Man my PRS SE is a mysterious guitar.
Explain this:
High E action 17th fret 4/64", lower it a little, rings out like a fuckin bango. Well shit, right? So I lower it even more to see where the ringing is coming from, lower to 3/64". The ringing is all gone. Hello? How can higher action buzz more?
Explain this:
High E action 17th fret 4/64", lower it a little, rings out like a fuckin bango. Well shit, right? So I lower it even more to see where the ringing is coming from, lower to 3/64". The ringing is all gone. Hello? How can higher action buzz more?
Was the buzz on the open note or all fretted/some fretted notes?
AwakenTheSkies
Life is like a box of chocolates
Nothing was sounding right
but then I lowered it even more and it fixed itself.
thebeesknees22
SS.org Regular
hey fellas
so i bought a warmoth neck to try and fit onto this custom strat my dad gave me and it's juuuuust a hair too wide
Question. To sand the body neck pocket or the neck.
sand the body and if it still doesn't quite fit then the old neck won't fit anymore.
sand the neck and then it won't fit on any partscaster body if i decided to just make one if i can't get this to work
i'm leaning towards sanding the neck itself
so i bought a warmoth neck to try and fit onto this custom strat my dad gave me and it's juuuuust a hair too wide
Question. To sand the body neck pocket or the neck.
sand the body and if it still doesn't quite fit then the old neck won't fit anymore.
sand the neck and then it won't fit on any partscaster body if i decided to just make one if i can't get this to work
i'm leaning towards sanding the neck itself
thebeesknees22
SS.org Regular
I went for the neck and got it to work.
Still need to put the screws in for the tuning keys, and lower the pickup height, but i think this is going to do the trick. whew!
Still need to put the screws in for the tuning keys, and lower the pickup height, but i think this is going to do the trick. whew!
Musiscience
Well-Known Member
Currently spraying 2 guitars in nitro and wondering how long I should let it dry before sanding. The info is all over the place, with other forums saying 4-6 weeks, and sites like StewMac saying 10-14 days.
Those of you who have significant experience with nitro, what's the ideal drying time?
Those of you who have significant experience with nitro, what's the ideal drying time?
Moongrum
Well-Known Member
Do you guys use radius gauges when doing setups on your guitar or just eyeball it?
Depends on the hardware and context. They're not really necessary for most setup jobs, unless you're doing fretwork or hardware swaps or working on a real basketcase and need to get your bearings.
Moongrum
Well-Known Member
My guitar's neck is straight, truss rod seem to be adjusted right, but the action is still too high for my liking around the 10th fret onward higher, which I believe means I need to lower the saddles.
I was reading I should set my E strings at a given height, then pop one of those radius gauges under the strings, then adjust the remaining strings flush with the radius gauge.
I feel like the radius gauge is rather specialized and something most don't own, so was curious how others go about the situation I'm currently in.
In that case just measure the height of each individual string off the fret, no? Just gotta know roughly what height you want for each string. That's what I do. You just need something to measure height with. I use the ruler on an Ibanez multitool, since measurements start right at the very edge of the ruler. That's been accurate enough for my needs.
On bridges where you can't adjust each individual saddle, THEN you might want to add shims under some saddles to make sure all strings are even with the radius.
In your case I would rather give the neck some more relief and slightly lower the saddles. Same action below the 10th and lower above. With a straight neck your action will always have to be higher in the higher register to not buzz in the lower register.
Also, radius gauge are good when you need a reference point and haven't developed an eye for it yet. After that they just get in the way. Plus some setups might not really follow the radius anyway (I prefer all un wounds close to the same height, rather low, and increasing height in the wound strings for example).
swimrunner
Member
I don't agree with this, unless you are referring to a completely straight neck (which yes, will cause problems). But generally speaking, once you have passed the "just enough" relief threshold, adding more is only going to increase relative action in the upper register. This can be desirable for extremely heavy-handed players, but otherwise is not what I would recommend.
OP, I use a neck relief gauge ( https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...for-necks-and-fingerboards/neck-relief-gauge/ ) to measure neck relief. Feeler gauges and eyeballing it can certainly work, but having a precise measurement is good so that you don't second-guess yourself. It's expensive but I found it very worth the investment - just make sure you have a straight edge you can trust to calibrate it against.
I do also recommend under-string radius gauges. One could mostly avoid them If one only wants to use a string height gauge ( https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/straightedges/string-action-gauge/ ) but I like having both. Add 0.010 or 0.020 to your bass side relative to your treble side and then follow the radius. Again, it's money, but having a consistent process you trust is going to save your time and brainpower for more important things.
If one prefers an un-radiused feel on the strings ala @Asdrael here, that's fine, but I would recommend a 20" or better yet completely flat fretboard for what he's describing. I myself do generally prefer flatter radii (all my guitars in 16"-20" territory, including my refret + reradius PRS).
