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For my own curiosity’s sake does a d tuna just work for E to D or does it go down 2 semitones no matter
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For my own curiosity’s sake does a d tuna just work for E to D or does it go down 2 semitones no matter
Could you achieve the required result with a D-Tuna equipped recessed Floyd that has been blocked to dive only?
The nut is a top lock, screws down at the top to prevent erroneous tuning and throw the tremolo out of alignment. Do you think that may still influence it? Initially the first fret across all strings is consistent, but further up the neck, the high E string has higher action than the B and G.Probably could use a level. Would be interesting to get the nut looked at a well, as a higher than it should be nut can throw your action reference out a bit.
Man my PRS SE is a mysterious guitar.
Explain this:
High E action 17th fret 4/64", lower it a little, rings out like a fuckin bango. Well shit, right? So I lower it even more to see where the ringing is coming from, lower to 3/64". The ringing is all gone. Hello? How can higher action buzz more?
Nothing was sounding right but then I lowered it even more and it fixed itself.Was the buzz on the open note or all fretted/some fretted notes?
Do you guys use radius gauges when doing setups on your guitar or just eyeball it?
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My guitar's neck is straight, truss rod seem to be adjusted right, but the action is still too high for my liking around the 10th fret onward higher, which I believe means I need to lower the saddles.Depends on the hardware and context. They're not really necessary for most setup jobs, unless you're doing fretwork or hardware swaps or working on a real basketcase and need to get your bearings.
In that case just measure the height of each individual string off the fret, no? Just gotta know roughly what height you want for each string. That's what I do. You just need something to measure height with. I use the ruler on an Ibanez multitool, since measurements start right at the very edge of the ruler. That's been accurate enough for my needs.My guitar's neck is straight, truss rod seem to be adjusted right, but the action is still too high for my liking around the 10th fret onward higher, which I believe means I need to lower the saddles.
I was reading I should set my E strings at a given height, then pop one of those radius gauges under the strings, then adjust the remaining strings flush with the radius gauge.
I feel like the radius gauge is rather specialized and something most don't own, so was curious how others go about the situation I'm currently in.
In your case I would rather give the neck some more relief and slightly lower the saddles. Same action below the 10th and lower above. With a straight neck your action will always have to be higher in the higher register to not buzz in the lower register.My guitar's neck is straight, truss rod seem to be adjusted right, but the action is still too high for my liking around the 10th fret onward higher, which I believe means I need to lower the saddles.
I was reading I should set my E strings at a given height, then pop one of those radius gauges under the strings, then adjust the remaining strings flush with the radius gauge.
I feel like the radius gauge is rather specialized and something most don't own, so was curious how others go about the situation I'm currently in.
I don't agree with this, unless you are referring to a completely straight neck (which yes, will cause problems). But generally speaking, once you have passed the "just enough" relief threshold, adding more is only going to increase relative action in the upper register. This can be desirable for extremely heavy-handed players, but otherwise is not what I would recommend.In your case I would rather give the neck some more relief and slightly lower the saddles. Same action below the 10th and lower above. With a straight neck your action will always have to be higher in the higher register to not buzz in the lower register.
Also, radius gauge are good when you need a reference point and haven't developed an eye for it yet. After that they just get in the way. Plus some setups might not really follow the radius anyway (I prefer all un wounds close to the same height, rather low, and increasing height in the wound strings for example).