Yeah was thinking about that too.
Frets would be SS Dunlop 6100 or the equivalent Jescar.
It's probably just me being anal about what he means by "jumbo" frets.
I'll probably just ask if he has some jumbo fretwires and see what he says.
Quick luthiery/manteinance questions not deserving a thread
- Thread starter OmegaSlayer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
Frets would be SS Dunlop 6100 or the equivalent Jescar.
It's probably just me being anal about what he means by "jumbo" frets.
I'll probably just ask if he has some jumbo fretwires and see what he says.
This site may earn a commission from merchant links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.
Got a cool new J Custom yesterday in really good condition, save for this one little finish crack on the arm rest:
I was thinking of filling it with some CA glue and then polishing it off, just to prevent it from eventually peeling off. Is that a correct way to go about it? I've read a bit about this stuff in the past but never actually done it. Just want to make sure.
I was thinking of filling it with some CA glue and then polishing it off, just to prevent it from eventually peeling off. Is that a correct way to go about it? I've read a bit about this stuff in the past but never actually done it. Just want to make sure.
Omzig
Well-Known Member
Thank you! Idk why I hadn't thought of checking YouTube
but that helps a ton. Already ordered some thin superglue for the job.
crushingpetal
SS.org Regular
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2022
- Messages
- 1,425
- Reaction score
- 2,008
There are so many good StewMac videos.
Just be really careful with the thin CA, I call it the devil's eyedrops. The complete lack of surface tension can really screw you on some jobs and it'll wick into every crevice and edge. I use thick CA with a fine applicator tip and I get much more favorable results.
I will keep this in mind, thank you!
A (non guitar player) friend of mine said he'd just use a small amount of thinned poly finish for a job like this, but I've seen that suggested less everywhere else.
JimF
Contributor
In the past I've seen people use clear nail polish as a bit of a "whoops, best stop this getting any worse" workhorse type fix.
Moongrum
Well-Known Member
Still pondering my action lol.
I have it set to what is allegedly low. Is this low for you guys? I know it's personal preference, and I don't need to follow the grid, but still seems a bit high.
First pic is with first fret capo'd per instructions.
https://ibb.co/HxrCXhr
Then without capo.
https://ibb.co/kyBDY18
Too lazy to bother with resizing for this old beatdown forum, hence links.
I have it set to what is allegedly low. Is this low for you guys? I know it's personal preference, and I don't need to follow the grid, but still seems a bit high.
First pic is with first fret capo'd per instructions.
https://ibb.co/HxrCXhr
Then without capo.
https://ibb.co/kyBDY18
Too lazy to bother with resizing for this old beatdown forum, hence links.
Rubbishplayer
Well-Known Member
Looks high to me....
No, seriously, apologies...it's tough to read this from the photos cos they're taken at an angle.
A lot of people suggest a good benchmark for string height at the 12th fret on the bass string is 1.6mm and, for my better guitars, that seems reasonable. But so much depends on your playing technique.
Gypsy jazz guitarists often have their action much higher, as in a purely acoustic setting (no amps) this is considered necessary to keep good tone.
Ultimately, there is no "right" action, only poor action for the situation. Rather like the old Scandinavian saying: "There is no bad weather, only bad clothing".
Moongrum
Well-Known Member
Do you eye it from the top of the string?
Because the capo'd pic has the bottom of the string at 1mm.
Definitely, ideally I'd just slam the strings on top of the frets, but then full step bends choke out. I don't want to put effort into playing, but I don't want to lose my boomer bends, either haha.
Rubbishplayer
Well-Known Member
From the bottom. And at 1mm, you're always gonna be at risk of choking, though a lot depends on your fretboard radius.Do you eye it from the top of the string?
Because the capo'd pic has the bottom of the string at 1mm.
Definitely, ideally I'd just slam the strings on top of the frets, but then full step bends choke out. I don't want to put effort into playing, but I don't want to lose my boomer bends, either haha.
groverj3
Bioinformagician
No capo. I use a capo on the 1st fret for measuring relief, but I don't use it for action. I guess it would be fine, but it doesn't mirror how you play it, and you'd have to use a capo every time for consistency.
Bottom of the lowest string at the 12th fret roughly 1.4-1.5 mm, highest string about 1.2-1.35 mm. But it's all just a general estimate. There is a range that works. If your relief is set well you should be able to set your bridge height such that it doesn't change much above that, but a little higher or lower on the upper frets is fine as long as it feels good.
Much lower than that and I find that lower strings kind of get in the way of bending and it's hard to get the requisite leverage. Higher than that and it messes with my desire to use less pressure.
If it feels good, it's good.
Also important to have a comfortable amount of neck relief. Too straight a neck makes the strings feel stiffer and that could be uncomfortable if you don't like it. I prefer a small, but noticeable amount of relief.
Moongrum
Well-Known Member
Man based on what you and Rubbishplayer said then I think I must really be a weenie
I think I'm overthinking it too, because I'll adjust it, then 2 weeks later, go, "but...what if it could be better...." I'll shut up and play my guitar now Rubbishplayer
Well-Known Member
Hey, it's good to compare notes, so no worries. But the key thing is to focus on what feels good for you.Man based on what you and Rubbishplayer said then I think I must really be a weenie
A lot of things affect action and how you perceive it. The same action at the 12th fret with give different actions at the 24th fret depending on your relief, nut slots, etc.
For me, with a decently cut nut and a close to straight neck:
At the 12th fret:
- 1.2mm for the high E
- 1.7 for the low E
Translating at the 24th to
- 1.4
- 1.9
All with zero chocking and buzz with a pretty heavy right hand.
Measure your action with that tool looking from the side at a 90° angle and good light. Don't hesitate to move a string up and down a bit to make sure you are not seeing a shadow. Do it enough that you get a feel for it and know what you like better.
For me, with a decently cut nut and a close to straight neck:
At the 12th fret:
- 1.2mm for the high E
- 1.7 for the low E
Translating at the 24th to
- 1.4
- 1.9
All with zero chocking and buzz with a pretty heavy right hand.
Measure your action with that tool looking from the side at a 90° angle and good light. Don't hesitate to move a string up and down a bit to make sure you are not seeing a shadow. Do it enough that you get a feel for it and know what you like better.
