Replacement tuners for Ibanez S Series

[Mwoit]

Replacement tuners for Ibanez S Series.

I've got an Ibanez S540. It plays great but it is rubbish at holding its tuning. I've got the Lo-Pro blocked off with a bit of wood, and I do not use the locking nuts as I want it to act as a hard tail guitar.

What are recommended replacement tuners for the Ibanez in line tuners? Gotoh? Schaller?

 

[angl2k]

Replacement tuners for Ibanez S Series.

I've got an Ibanez S540. It plays great but it is rubbish at holding its tuning. I've got the Lo-Pro blocked off with a bit of wood, and I do not use the locking nuts as I want it to act as a hard tail guitar.

What are recommended replacement tuners for the Ibanez in line tuners? Gotoh? Schaller?

I have Gotoh SG381 MG-T in my 752fx so I'm assuming Ibanez drills their holes to fit Gotoh tuners.

 

[odibrom]

That's weird, those tuners are quite nice and stable. They're Gotoh if I'm not mistaken.

Is the trem properly blocked? Try to tighten the tuner's buttons and nuts (at the top of the headstock).

Your tuning issues may well be due to your hand rub on the micro tuners at the bridge. Before committing to new tuners, check all screws and bolts at the headstock, including those that secure the nut in the back of the neck.

I have one of those guitars (bought it in 1995) and it simply rocks big time, never had any tuner problem, but I have it full floating, so the nut is locking.

 

[McBrain]

It's probably because the nut is not supposed to be used without the clamps. Too much friction and the strings move around too much. Many people including myself block their floyds, but still lock the nut. So my advice is to lock the strings down. I don't think changing the tuners will help. ABM used to make a replacement non-locking ebanol nut, but I think it went out of production. If you can find one or a similar product, then that might work.

 

[Mwoit]

That's weird, those tuners are quite nice and stable. They're Gotoh if I'm not mistaken.

Is the trem properly blocked? Try to tighten the tuner's buttons and nuts (at the top of the headstock).

Your tuning issues may well be due to your hand rub on the micro tuners at the bridge. Before committing to new tuners, check all screws and bolts at the headstock, including those that secure the nut in the back of the neck.

I have one of those guitars (bought it in 1995) and it simply rocks big time, never had any tuner problem, but I have it full floating, so the nut is locking.

The trem is blocked and does not wiggle at all, even if I depress on the bridge with heavy palm muting. I don't play far enough to even touch the micro tuners. This one is from 1992. I have an RG770DX from 1992 which is also blocked and that's fine.

It's probably because the nut is not supposed to be used without the clamps. Too much friction and the strings move around too much. Many people including myself block their floyds, but still lock the nut. So my advice is to lock the strings down. I don't think changing the tuners will help. ABM used to make a replacement non-locking ebanol nut, but I think it went out of production. If you can find one or a similar product, then that might work.

Sounds like that is the solution sadly. Ah well, a few extra seconds to untighten and tighten isn't the end of the world.

Cheers y'all.

 

[The Spanish Inquisition]

Try restringing your guitar in reverse, that the ball ends rest in the tuners. If the problem reoccurs, it's not your tuners.

 

[CapnForsaggio]

Planet waves 18:1 self trimming in black.

I love these tuners on hard tail ibz.

Should be 69.99

 

[Rachmaninoff]

It's probably because the nut is not supposed to be used without the clamps. Too much friction and the strings move around too much. Many people including myself block their floyds, but still lock the nut. So my advice is to lock the strings down. I don't think changing the tuners will help. ABM used to make a replacement non-locking ebanol nut, but I think it went out of production. If you can find one or a similar product, then that might work.

Pretty much this.

 

[Mwoit]

Sadly, it's still not too great even with locking nuts. I'll try alternate solutions as suggested when I decide to restring it.

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Is it going sharp or flat? When is the last time you tightened the neck bolts? Cleaned the locking blocks in the saddles recently?

 

[Petar Bogdanov]

The screws on the back of the nut might also need tightening. But careful, too much force will strip the screws or crack your headstock. Same goes for the neck joint, by the way.

 

[Mwoit]

Is it going sharp or flat? When is the last time you tightened the neck bolts? Cleaned the locking blocks in the saddles recently?

Tends to be going all over the place (fluctuating between sharp and flat). Then again, I've not been paying attention too closely. I've not tightened the neck bolts ever, so I'll do that slightly. No cleaning in the locking blocks. How would you clean it? What sort of things am I looking to "clean"?

 

[MaxOfMetal]

Tends to be going all over the place (fluctuating between sharp and flat). Then again, I've not been paying attention too closely. I've not tightened the neck bolts ever, so I'll do that slightly. No cleaning in the locking blocks. How would you clean it? What sort of things am I looking to "clean"?

If it's going both sharp and flat, you can pretty much rule out the tuners as the cause.

Just give each neck bolt a solid torque with the proper screwdriver. You don't have to be super gentle, but don't ape it.

I wouldn't worry too much about the locking blocks either if your strings are going sharp at all. That said, it won't hurt to remove the blocks and clean them with some naphtha/3-In-One. You just want to remove any crud that might stop the blocks from having enough friction to really capture the strings.

 

[tedtan]

If tightening the neck bolts doesn't help, check to make sure that the trem is actually blocked off properly (e.g., immovable). If it can move at all, it can fuck with your tuning like you describe.

 

[CapnForsaggio]

I know what it is

Your tremolo block is loose relative to the clamp plate.

There are 3 or 4 flat head screws on the top, accessible only if you remove the saddles.

You block the trem block, and that cantilevers the clamp plate. It can move around though.