Scared newb in need of advice.

[moikey]

So I'm soon due to begin a 7 String build based on the Blackmachine B7 template posted on here, with a slightly different headstock and contours (more or less just the body outline). I've been doing research for a few weeks, bought some materials and am due to make master templates soon to aid in the cavity routing and body shaping. The issues I have are:

• How do I factor in the nut size to the length of the neck + headstock?
• How do I align the bridge correctly with the nut? I have the intonation point marked, but I'm not sure if this is the edge of the bridge or perhaps the string through points? I'm a little worried my strings will skew slightly.
• How accurate do measurements need to be? Some measurements on my templates read to 4 decimal places, which is unrealistic for a human to eyeball. Is this level of accuracy really needed?
• Body thickness. How do I achieve the Blackmachine slim body design (36mm?), whilst still retaining deep pickup cavities for DiMarzios? My body will be 26mm mahogany or swamp ash (still deciding this) and 10mm black walnut cap.

The fretboard initially scared me, but I have sourced a place nearby that can laser cut it. Time to get creative with the inlays!

Sorry if these questions are answered already. I've had a thorough look through the posts here, and many videos glance over these issues and stick to the more general aspects.

 

[dankarghh]

You don't need to get crazy with the measurements as far as the body goes, it's all looks. Your main accuracy should be scale length +intonation point as you mentioned, but don't trust your template for this, calculate it when you're up to that. I route the neck pocket from the neck itself, not from templates so no need to stress there either.

I don't see why you'd need to factor the nut size in to anything, measurements are taken from it, but do not include it?

Pickups: I'm currently making a real skinny guitar (33mm) and I have a pair of dimarzio titans - heaps of room to route.

Hope that's helpful, goodluck!

 

[Hywel]

I'm also a bit of a newb but I'll try and lend a hand!

• How do I factor in the nut size to the length of the neck + headstock?

• 
  
  Measure your nut thickness and add it on to the end of the fretboard at fret 0 to get the length of the neck before the headstock. Don't forget to leave a bit past 24 for the last fret to grab into!
  
  

  [*]How do I align the bridge correctly with the nut? I have the intonation point marked, but I'm not sure if this is the edge of the bridge or perhaps the string through points? I'm a little worried my strings will skew slightly.

  
  If you build your neck first and then cut the neck pocket, you can place the bridge using the 2 outer strings to line everything up perfectly and then route the pickups so it all lines up. Better details in this post here and this thread here.
  
  

  [*]How accurate do measurements need to be? Some measurements on my templates read to 4 decimal places, which is unrealistic for a human to eyeball. Is this level of accuracy really needed?

  
  I don't think so. The body outline and pickup routes certainly not but you will get a better fitting neck pocket if you make a template from the neck you build rather then a pre made template (as it will allow for small mistakes when you build the neck). The fretboard and neck should be fairly accurate.
  
  

  [*]Body thickness. How do I achieve the Blackmachine slim body design (36mm?), whilst still retaining deep pickup cavities for DiMarzios? My body will be 26mm mahogany or swamp ash (still deciding this) and 10mm black walnut cap.

Never used DiMarzios but the routes I've done are 20mm deep center and 25mm deep ears and if anything are a little too deep so you should be fine with 20mmish deep routes in a 36mm body. Just leave enough for the adjustment screws to bite into.

Something that really helped me was using a program such as Adobe Illustrator that can draw accurately in mm/inches to plan the build. Even just planning it out on paper to scale can help a lot. Hope some of that's useful!

 

[moikey]

You don't need to get crazy with the measurements as far as the body goes, it's all looks. Your main accuracy should be scale length +intonation point as you mentioned, but don't trust your template for this, calculate it when you're up to that. I route the neck pocket from the neck itself, not from templates so no need to stress there either.

I don't see why you'd need to factor the nut size in to anything, measurements are taken from it, but do not include it?

Pickups: I'm currently making a real skinny guitar (33mm) and I have a pair of dimarzio titans - heaps of room to route.

Hope that's helpful, goodluck!

I'm going for a 26.5" scale, and I'm going to use fret calculator to get an accurate plot of the board before laser cutting. Regarding the intonation point, is this the edge of the bridge, or is it the point where the saddles contact? I'm a little fuzzy there.

 

[moikey]

I'm also a bit of a newb but I'll try and lend a hand!



Measure your nut thickness and add it on to the end of the fretboard at fret 0 to get the length of the neck before the headstock. Don't forget to leave a bit past 24 for the last fret to grab into!



If you build your neck first and then cut the neck pocket, you can place the bridge using the 2 outer strings to line everything up perfectly and then route the pickups so it all lines up. Better details in this post here and this thread here.



I don't think so. The body outline and pickup routes certainly not but you will get a better fitting neck pocket if you make a template from the neck you build rather then a pre made template (as it will allow for small mistakes when you build the neck). The fretboard and neck should be fairly accurate.



Never used DiMarzios but the routes I've done are 20mm deep center and 25mm deep ears and if anything are a little too deep so you should be fine with 20mmish deep routes in a 36mm body. Just leave enough for the adjustment screws to bite into.

Something that really helped me was using a program such as Adobe Illustrator that can draw accurately in mm/inches to plan the build. Even just planning it out on paper to scale can help a lot. Hope some of that's useful!

Thats some really great points! Thats a good suggestion with Illustrator. I've managed to get the plans for the BM7 printed to 100% accurate size, but my next will be a fresh idea so I will give that a blast! cheers

 

[DistinguishedPapyrus]

Your scale length is measured from where the strings make contact with the nut (the line where the nut and fretboard meet). In your case 26.5 inches. Build your neck first. Cut the neck pocket, then use the position of the neck to place the bridge. Generally, to position the bridge, move the high e saddle to its forward most position on the bridge, then place the bridge on the body so that the point where the string makes contact with the saddle of the high e is exactly 26.5 inches from where the string contacts the nut. That sets your bridge to proper scale length... now use some thread or even a couple guitar strings strung through the 2 outermost saddles all the way up to the nut to get the bridge centered. Once the bridge is aligned, you can mark out the holes and drill.

Don't just set the bridge based off where the saddles generally line up on the bridge, cause when the guitar is set up to play, the saddles are purposely moved backward a little for something called intonation adjustment. If you actually measure a properly set up guitar you'll find that the strings are actually slightly longer, from nut to saddle, than the guitars scale length. Especially on the bass side.

 

[moikey]

Your scale length is measured from where the strings make contact with the nut (the line where the nut and fretboard meet). In your case 26.5 inches. Build your neck first. Cut the neck pocket, then use the position of the neck to place the bridge. Generally, to position the bridge, move the high e saddle to its forward most position on the bridge, then place the bridge on the body so that the point where the string makes contact with the saddle of the high e is exactly 26.5 inches from where the string contacts the nut. That sets your bridge to proper scale length... now use some thread or even a couple guitar strings strung through the 2 outermost saddles all the way up to the nut to get the bridge centered. Once the bridge is aligned, you can mark out the holes and drill.

Don't just set the bridge based off where the saddles generally line up on the bridge, cause when the guitar is set up to play, the saddles are purposely moved backward a little for something called intonation adjustment. If you actually measure a properly set up guitar you'll find that the strings are actually slightly longer, from nut to saddle, than the guitars scale length. Especially on the bass side.

That makes a lot of sense. I'm familiar with intonation and setup, but I'm inexperienced with building and hardtails in general (I was a floyd man for the longest time but I've gone off them). I never thought to string the first and last strings and adjust that way for alignment. Thats clever.

 

[russmuller]

That makes a lot of sense. I'm familiar with intonation and setup, but I'm inexperienced with building and hardtails in general (I was a floyd man for the longest time but I've gone off them). I never thought to string the first and last strings and adjust that way for alignment. Thats clever.

I agree, that sounds like a real pro-tip!