Schecter KM-7 (Keith Merrow) Signature Thread

[Electric Wizard]

^When the original KM-7 came out, Keith mentioned that the actual bridge was set back further for flexibility in intonating lower tunings. The regular long saddles were needed for standard/ drop A. You can see in the picture that the saddles are a lot more forward on the older model. Numerous people had received their's missing springs and saddle screws at first though, since they were so far forward they got loose in shipping. Seems like Schecter has responded to that by more conventional placement of the bridge plate, which requires the smaller saddles.

 

[timmy551]

My KM-7 MK-II LH just arrived from the US today (I'm from New Zealand). It's come with a black tusq nut on it instead of the EB compensated nut. Do you guys think it's worth the effort to get this fixed up with the EB nut?

 

[Spicypickles]

Nope. The difference is very minimal anyways, imo, so it's not worth the hassle.

 

[CovertSovietBear]

^When the original KM-7 came out, Keith mentioned that the actual bridge was set back further for flexibility in intonating lower tunings. The regular long saddles were needed for standard/ drop A. You can see in the picture that the saddles are a lot more forward on the older model. Numerous people had received their's missing springs and saddle screws at first though, since they were so far forward they got loose in shipping. Seems like Schecter has responded to that by more conventional placement of the bridge plate, which requires the smaller saddles.

No, the bridge isn't set back since the scale length remains at 26.5". If the bridge were actually set back then the scale length would be longer. You can even compare their line up of other seven strings and see that the bridge isn't set back, and the saddles aren't "longer", they're normal saddles.

What actually happened is that the bridge pickup was moved down closer to the bridge to give Keith something closer to what he likes tone-wise.

The bridge on mine and on others seems like any other hipshot 7 bridge, the saddles aren't longer, they're standard size. In these newer models I have seen that they've included shorter saddles for the B string, but the other saddles are just normal off the shelf ones.

 

[Electric Wizard]

^I'm sorry, you're wrong about multiple things there. Keith said himself that the bridge plate is set further back, as well as the bridge pickup. This does not increase the scale length, as the saddles sit further forward. It does give more room to move saddles back, as would be needed for lower tunings. I never said they were longer saddles either, they are normal saddles including the 7th string which would otherwise be a shorter saddle. It's pretty clear if you look at the pictures.

ETA:

Yeah I wanted it to have an extended intonation range (the 6 string is that way as well). Looks like they need to use slightly longer screws.

 

[philkilla]

I've got the first run KM7 and my volume pot has been a dud ever since. I've already used a replacement from schecter, but it was a dud too...

The cavity is very very tight, and regular CTS push pull pots will not fit.

Has anyone had luck with bournes pots at all? I've looked around a bit and they seem to have pots small enough to fit in there.

 

[Zinter]

My KM-7 MK-II LH just arrived from the US today (I'm from New Zealand). It's come with a black tusq nut on it instead of the EB compensated nut. Do you guys think it's worth the effort to get this fixed up with the EB nut?

I have a mk-1 and I installed a handmade compensated nut. It may depend on the player but I really notice the improvement by compensated nuts. I have to say though, I wouldn't ship a guitar back over it.

I've got the first run KM7 and my volume pot has been a dud ever since. I've already used a replacement from schecter, but it was a dud too...

The cavity is very very tight, and regular CTS push pull pots will not fit.

Has anyone had luck with bournes pots at all? I've looked around a bit and they seem to have pots small enough to fit in there.

I rewired my first run KM-7 with a 3-way Gibson toggle, new Switchcraft output jack and a Bournes 500k push/pull (full-size by their brand as far as I know). It all fit in quite well albeit tightly packed. Good luck!

 

[philkilla]

I rewired my first run KM-7 with a 3-way Gibson toggle, new Switchcraft output jack and a Bournes 500k push/pull (full-size by their brand as far as I know). It all fit in quite well albeit tightly packed. Good luck!

Ahh that sounds good. Just to make my life a little bit easier do you have a link of the one you used handy?

I already installed a switch craft switch as well because the stock one was on its way out.

I can't complain too much about schecters because of the overall quality of the instrument (this being my second) but some of their quality control can be a bit lacking.

 

[Zinter]

Ahh that sounds good. Just to make my life a little bit easier do you have a link of the one you used handy?

I already installed a switch craft switch as well because the stock one was on its way out.

I can't complain too much about schecters because of the overall quality of the instrument (this being my second) but some of their quality control can be a bit lacking.

https://www.bourns.com/pdfs/PDB183-GTR.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/Bourns-Guitar-Potentiometer-Switch-Knurled/dp/B003WUK0UU

It is one of these ones, some sites (like amazon) have it listed as a mini pot. I usually dislike mini pots such as Alpha ones but these function great and seem to be their normal size by Bournes. They have a satisfying click when pulled that is hard to convey but one of my favourite parts

 

[philkilla]

Ahhhh good lookin out.

I tried a cts push pull once in there but the cavity is crazy tight.

 

[Jonathan20022]

Anyone care to take a clear shot of the wiring on either a stock KM7 or one that has replaced pickups but the coil split is still active?

 

[philkilla]

Like this?

 

[Jonathan20022]

That's perfect! Thank you, can you indicate which side is the bridge and which is the neck?

 

[philkilla]

I wanna say it's the right side but I'm not sure.

Are you having trouble finding a schematic? I usually just look up a seymour duncan schematic and convert colors if I need to.

I've got the stock duncan in the neck with a bareknuckle in the bridge. Works like a charm.

 

[ArtHam]

I've got the stock duncan in the neck with a bareknuckle in the bridge. Works like a charm.

That sounds like a great combination. The stock Duncan would be the sentient?

 

[philkilla]

That sounds like a great combination. The stock Duncan would be the sentient?

Sure is! I've thought of swapping it just to match the aesthetic of the juggernaut, but it serves me pretty well as is.

 

[Thelamon]

Just bought a KM-7 MKII and I really like it, other than I'll say the knob and switch are pretty cheap feeling. Has anyone found a way to improve the original hardware, or should I just consider swapping the parts out for higher-end stuff? Thanks!

 

[Jonathan20022]

Swap out the pots and switches, they're cheap enough to get amazing replacement parts. I wouldn't bother improving faulty/cheap electronics that are that affordable to replace.

 

[kabz]

Got my KM-7 mk ii from sweetwater
Had a loose volume knob that kept spinning and needed tightening otherwise it was super loose. A little crackly, and SW offered to replace it of course, not sure if I want to go through that whole process. I'll play for a few days to see if anything else pops up.
High E string broke too after 5 min playing, looked like it was wound too many times around post because it was slipping out of tune before a tiny bend snapped it.
But I really enjoy it after a day other than those things.

I have to say, initial impressions:
Super comfy.
Neck is fast and comfortable, not too thick and not too thin.
Seymour Duncan electronics are actually pretty great right out of the box.
Totally impressed by that part.

Now my QUESTIONS for all you owners.

1) Who has swapped out the SD pickups and what did you swap for? Did it improve the sound significantly?

2) Who has replaced the Volume Knob/Pots and what did you choose? I like a heavy knob.

I have a feeling that some mods will be inevitable on this, but wanted to see what the most tried and true electronics replacements were on this guitar.

Thanks

 

[Jonathan20022]

I wouldn't replace the entire guitar over the pots and switches, especially since it seems like a common issue on these guitars. You might just get another with the same problem.

I have Warpigs in mine and it's very nice, I prefer it to the Naz/Sent just for being a bit more full sounding.