Second build, Modern/BM/super strat

[pettymusic]

Haha thanks man. Just router/jigsaw, nothing unusual. I'll just have to be extra careful with the template and not use it for too long. I was doing really shallow passes because I didn't remove any wood prior to routing so it mustve just got way too hot. Oh well.

Ah, I see. I have some laying around here somewhere. I was using to make notched straight edges. I was using the Dremel with a carbide bit. Kinda of a pain because it would melt on to the bit and prevent cutting.

I'm always on the look for other ways to cut acrylic. Seems like it would last longer than mdf but I just had such a tough with it, I think thats why I always reach for the mdf.

 

[BlackMastodon]

Haha thanks man. Just router/jigsaw, nothing unusual. I'll just have to be extra careful with the template and not use it for too long. I was doing really shallow passes because I didn't remove any wood prior to routing so it mustve just got way too hot. Oh well.

It might have been the router chuck being too close and mangling the acrylic a bit if you were trying to route deeper in the cavity? I don't think the acrylic would heat up too much from routing.

 

[KnightroExpress]

I've done the exact same thing to a template before. It's from your router's chuck, as BlackMastodon said.

 

[dankarghh]

I've done the exact same thing to a template before. It's from your router's chuck, as BlackMastodon said.

Makes sense. Will have to keep that in mind, cheer guys.

Next problem. I'm ready to drill my string through holes, however, there isn't enough access on my drill press. Annoying. I'm looking at something like this: Portable Drill Guide : CARBA-TEC

Anyone have any insight or ideas here? The only other guy I know with a drill press has the same problem of being too small.

Cheers!

 

[Renkenstein]

I have the same problem with my drill press. I have another drill press, but it's got so much lateral movement that I can't get completely accurate string through holes. To rectify this, I made an MDF template of the Hipshot baseplate and drilled the holes in the template. I use that to guide the bit into the body. This can and will lead to wonky holes in the back, which I then rout for a recessed ferrule plate instead of individual ferrules. I drill the ferrule plate off the same template. The holes will line up enough to pass a string through, and if you drill the ferrule plate accurately it will make everything look clean.

When I get a bigger drill press I'll do it proper, but for now this works just fine.

 

[immortalx]

Although I'm using a drill press with a big enough throat for string through holes, there's a free-hand drilling method that works with a bit of care.

First ensure that the body sides are perfectly square.
Lay the body on a flat surface.
Place the bridge without the saddles on its calculated position on the body.
Get a metal 4mm drill bit (NOT a brad point bit) and lightly punch inside all 6 holes. The metal bit fits snugly inside those holes and helps mark their exact center.
Remove the bridge and draw a line along those marks. Double check that this line is perpendicular to the body center line.
Now, lay a square on the flat surface, just behind the guitar's butt.
Measure the distance from the square's "blade" to the line you draw in the previous step. Make sure that that measurement is taken on the body's center line.
Now flip the body, lay the square once more on the body's butt and measure the same distance.
On that spot, draw a line perpendicular to the center line.
With a bit of care you should be able to place the bridge in the same spot it was on the front. Once more, mark all six holes with the 4mm bit.

Now you are ready to drill. Using a jig like this :

Drill halfway from one side, using a brad point bit this time. Flip the body and drill the remaining depth. If you took the steps carefully, the holes should meet. Of course you should test this on a scrap piece to get the hang of it.

Sorry for the long post. It's hard to describe without pictures but hopefully you understand.

 

[dankarghh]

That seems crazy enough that it just might work. It also sounds really scary..

I like your suggestion to practice first.

 

[DredFul]

Lots of great ideas!

 

[dankarghh]

My girlfriends idea: Mark and drill the bridge location on a template. Switch the template to the back, punch the holes, then drill using imortalx's method. Sounds pretty fool proof?

The hard part is getting the bridge location onto the template. I should be able to trace it on however? And I can easily make sure it's in the right spot (on the front at least) before committing to any drilling.

 

[Renkenstein]

That's why I mentioned making an MDF template of the base plate. You can take a piece of scrap and double-sticky tape the base plate straight to the MDF and flush trim with a top bearing bit on a router table. Be sure to use a lot of downward pressure on the piece, because the bit will want to rip it out of your hand. Keep fingers as far away and always maintain downward force.

Before you remove the baseplate from your new template, drill the string thru holes through it using a drill bit that fits the baseplate holes exactly. You will also be able to drill the smaller holes for mounting the bridge. Your drill press should handle these duties nicely.

After you have that template, layout the location on the guitar top and drill starter holes only like 1/16"-1/8" deep. Then switch to that corner jig Immortal recommended.

I'll bet with that combined method you'll get damn close if not dead on.

 

[dankarghh]

Got on this yesterday. Because I didn't have a rear centreline and theres bevels and cutaways on the rear of the guitar (which make lining up a template very difficult) I ended up creating an additional template of the guitar top and drawing a bunch of lines on the sides both so I could accurately line the two up perfectly.

It worked! the holes met exactly. Probably helps that the body is only 34mm thick

Thanks heaps Renkenstein + immortalx for your advice.

Gluing up the fretboard:

 

[pettymusic]

dankarghh, would you mind sharing what, tool wise, you use to do the binding?

 

[dankarghh]

dankarghh, would you mind sharing what, tool wise, you use to do the binding?

Sure man. I just use a stewmac binding bit for the router. So simple, so easy.

 

[dankarghh]

Question: Is there a rule of thumb about truss rods. Should the adjustment nut protrude? Is it a problem if it doesn't?

 

[KnightroExpress]

The end of the adjuster should line up with the back of the nut.

 

[immortalx]

I place the edge of the adjustment nut right at the break point of the headstock. I don't really know if this is the right or wrong way though to be honest!

 

[pettymusic]

Question: Is there a rule of thumb about truss rods. Should the adjustment nut protrude? Is it a problem if it doesn't?

Yeah, mine ended up a little past the nut (toward the tuners) and its fine. It adjusts perfectly so far anyway.

 

[dankarghh]

Cheers guys. Another stupid question (forgive me, first time dealing with a string through)

I'm trying to drill out the ferules on the rear of the guitar, because there is already a small string hole, the mahogany just tears. I can do a practise hole on the same timber cleanly, but when drilling into a pre drilled hole, it tears.

Anyone have a solution? I'm considering dowling up 5mm or so before drilling..

 

[Prophetable]

You could try a brad-point bit. You could also do what a lot of people do with headstocks, which is clamp another piece of wood over the top of it to help hold the fibers of the body wood in place when you drill through.

 

[Renkenstein]

That can be tricky, especially if the hole is too big for a brad point bit to find the center. Go to a hardware store and find a dowel that will fit in the hole you already have drilled. Cut it to whatever length you need so it sits flush with the guitar back. Center punch the dead center of the dowel and drill. The dowel will give you the support that your bit needs to find the exact center. Make sure the dowel doesn't fit too tight that you won't be able to extract it. You can wax it with some candle wax or something to make it slide out easier.

I ran into that after drilling a pilot hole and the appropriate diameter for the threaded shaft on the barrel jack. I forgot to drill the recess that the lip of the output jack sits on. I found a dowel and did this trick. Works like a charm.