Winspear

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Yeah. I used to use those standard 7 string sets in drop A, thought it was fine because I'd never known better. Then I found this forum and learnt a bit about string tension. I started buying single strings and moved up a gauge every time I restrung. It just kept getting better and better. I could never look back!
 

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pitbulltodd

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my ibby has a 25.5 scale and it's tuned to drop g. i use a 72 gauge and it's nice and tight. i don't like loose floppy strings. anything below a 70 was too loose for my taste.
 

Tyler

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What low would be good if I still liked a tiny bit of bend available
 

pitbulltodd

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I already ordered 2 .70s earlier today. After I drill the hole to fit them and try them out I'll give my input to if I decide to go to a .68
cool man, a 70 should do the trick and you'll probably be surprised that it doesn't really feel all that different than the lighter gauges
 

Tyler

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Where would be a good place to take the guitar and get it set up properly for being filed down, drilled, intonated etc?
 

Zonk Knuckle

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Where would be a good place to take the guitar and get it set up properly for being filed down, drilled, intonated etc?

Not Guitar Center.

Tuning, intonation, truss rod adjustment are things I think one should learn to do on their own.
 

eventhetrees

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I want to set up my 7 string in G standard. Thinking of using .15-.68 strings or so.

My question is what should my string height be at the 12th fret, or 7th/8th fret when capo'ing the first and fretting where the board meets body?
 

Zonk Knuckle

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I want to set up my 7 string in G standard. Thinking of using .15-.68 strings or so.

My question is what should my string height be at the 12th fret, or 7th/8th fret when capo'ing the first and fretting where the board meets body?

I can't give you an exact distance. I don't know what's recommended, but I've been going by trial and error for truss rod adjustment. As in, I check for fret buzz; if low frets buzz with reasonable action, I add relief (loosen truss rod), and try to get a good balance. I also check relief by eye (after fretting first and last fret).

edit: I realized, it doesn't sound so good saying I go by trial and error for truss rod adjustment.:lol: I don't recommend doing that unless you feel comfortable doing so.
 

Winspear

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Indigenous

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So after all this nonsense with a horrible sounding low A I've had (it was earlier in this thread), I've decided I'm just going to go and get a whole new set of strings on my guitar. 25.5 scale on it, what I was thinking about doing was buying an Ernie Ball 8 string set. The strings run as: 10, 13, 17, 13, 42, 54, 64, 74. My plan is to use all the strings except for the 64, and use the 74 as my low A in drop A tuning, for an extra tight low string. This comes out to about 151 tension-wise. I just wanted to ask and make sure that this would be more prudent than using the 64 for my low A. Here is what the tension calculator said:

WITH A 74 FOR LOW A
E, .010" PL == 16.21
B, .013" PL == 15.38
G, .017" PB == 14.11
D, .030" PB == 27.1
A,, .042" PB == 29.94
E,, .054" PB == 27.06
A,,, .074" PB == 21.29
Tension == 151.09

WITH A 74 FOR LOW A
E, .010" PL == 16.21
B, .013" PL == 15.38
G, .017" PB == 14.11
D, .030" PB == 27.1
A,, .042" PB == 29.94
E,, .054" PB == 27.06
A,,, .064" PB == 16.68
Tension == 146.48

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

Explorer

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I think there have been two crossed conversation here, Indigenous. Here's my suggestion for your situation.

I'd go with the D'Addario EXL110W set, replacing the lowest .046 with a .052 for the low E, and then using a .080 for the low A1. That will bring your string tensions more in line and progressive, so that you don't have a huge tension drop for the lowest string.

See the huge continuity jumps in the set you're thinking of using?

WITH A 74 FOR LOW A
E, .010" PL == 16.21
B, .013" PL == 15.38
G, .017" PB == 14.11
D, .030" PB == 27.1
A,, .042" PB == 29.94
E,, .054" PB == 27.06
A,,, .074" PB == 21.29
Tension == 151.09

WITH A 74 FOR LOW A
E, .010" PL == 16.21
B, .013" PL == 15.38
G, .017" PB == 14.11
D, .030" PB == 27.1
A,, .042" PB == 29.94
E,, .054" PB == 27.06
A,,, .064" PB == 16.68
Tension == 146.48

Your sets are doubling in tension when you go from the G to the D, and then dropping dramatically at the bottom.

Here's my proposed set, with the substitution I suggest and the addition of the .080.

E, .010 PL == 16.2
B, .013 PL == 15.4
G, .018 NW == 16.1
D, .026 NW == 18.4
A, .036 NW == 19.5
E, .052 NW == 22.0
A, .080 NW == 23.4

See how the wound tensions progress smoothly upwards? And, of course, that discontinuity between the wound and plain strings is normal in terms of maintaining the smooth feel.

Alternatively, you could use...

E .049 19.7
A .074 20.1

...for your low end, but the lack of progressive tension is going to get you the same tension-related results you're trying to avoid.

Taking a quick stroll around Google, I see this proposed set will cost around $10. You could probably do better if you keep an eye open and buy off eBay.

Good luck!
 

Indigenous

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Alrighty, I'll go ahead and get all of that and try it out. Sorry for the confusing sort of double post. I just now sort of learned how tension works and about that calculator. This thread was really helpful though. Thanks!

I'll have to widen the tuning peg hole to fit the .80 gauge in there though, right? Do I just use a file to do that, or do I need a drill or something else?
 
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