The Official Agile ERG Thread

Oceans

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Bridge IMO, but you should probably play it first to see how you like them. You might not have any problems with them at all. My Agile 8 w/cepheus sounded just fine clean, just lacked a bit of punch for high-gain, fast rhythm parts.
cool, thanks :hbang:
 

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Ben.Last

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Go with the blue. As has been stated, you can swap out the pickups. But Lankle is correct, play it first, the Cephius pickups are not bad at all.
 

drjeffreyodweyer

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Id suggest the same.
I play a agile septor 827 with cepheus pups and they sound pretty solid. But its true, the distorted sounds arent as great as clean sounds. So I think Im gonna change the bridge pu, maybe a dimarzio dactivator.
 

nightflameauto

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I found when push came to shove that all the Cepheus passives needed to sound amazing distorted was the push of a bad monkey/tube screamer between the guitar and the amp. Crank level, gain below 9:00, bass and treble to taste results in big, ballsy tone.

Not that they sound that bad to begin with, but a boost really helps a lot.
 

singularity098

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Sup dudes!

I have been playing a 7-string Ibanez for years and I think I'm ready to make the move to an 8-string. My current axe is a Japanese RG-7621. (by the way if anyone wants to buy it, PM me) :hbang:

What I wanted to ask about is scale length on an 8-string guitar. I am looking at the Agile Intrepids and I see that they come in [about] 25.5", 27", 28.5", 30" scale lengths. WTF do I want to get? I don't really know which would make me happier. Is it just about string tension?

Some of the guitars I'm looking at:

Agile Intrepid Elite 825 EB EMG Nat at RondoMusic.com

Agile Intrepid Pro Dual 828 MN NA at RondoMusic.com

Agile Intrepid Pro Dual 830 MN NA at RondoMusic.com
 

Winspear

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There's a lot of discussion around here on this so just do a search.

But yes, string tension and also tone. Longer scale = same tension with same strings but tuned lower. Less need for thick strings to achieve playable tensions in X tuning. Also, the longer the scale, the thicker string it can accomodate before loss of upper harmonics, regardless of tuning.

I.e. Drop A on 25.5" with .066 gauge and drop G# on 27" with .066 gauge will have the same tension but the 27" will sound slightly better tone wise (less like a bass guitar)

Google: site:sevestring.org scale length for X tuning - and see what you get.

What tuning do you want?

In terms of playability, 27" is one fret longer than 25.5", 28.625" two frets, 30" three frets. By that I mean it's as if a fret was added behind the nut, the 24th (now 25th) fret removed, and the neck pickup moved back. I.e the string length and fret/pickup spacing is stretched proportionally.
 

singularity098

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Thanks for the reply...

I plan on keeping the thing in standard tuning for the most part... maybe I'd drop-tune the F# down to an E occasionally, but I plan to keep it standard mostly. I guess I'm sure that it's not horrible if they make 'em in that scale, but it's confusing and I've never played an extended range guitar.

I just want to get the right thing and it's really shitty that it is basically impossible for me to try these before buying. (just went to Guitar Center today and they had zero 8-strings) :(
 

MaxOfMetal

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Kahler didn't (still doesn't not sure), that's why you see the Floyd Style Locking nuts on all these guitars...and IMO the Floyd ones are better anyways I've always used their style w/ a Kahler rather than the Kahler locking nut.
11545350.jpg

What you have pictured is the original Kahler "StringLock", which was developed to go between a guitar's existing nut and tuners, about where you find the string retainer bar on most FR equipped guitars. Kahler though has made FR style locking nuts for quite some time.

They now make them for 7s and 8s as well:

5537k.jpg

5538g.jpg


Also, as bad as those older Kahler nuts were, nothing beats the craptastic-ness of the lever style units. Great idea, just not engineered well enough. Perhaps they'll go back to the drawing board with it. I hope someone does.
 

Winspear

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Thanks for the reply...

I plan on keeping the thing in standard tuning for the most part... maybe I'd drop-tune the F# down to an E occasionally, but I plan to keep it standard mostly. I guess I'm sure that it's not horrible if they make 'em in that scale, but it's confusing and I've never played an extended range guitar.

I just want to get the right thing and it's really shitty that it is basically impossible for me to try these before buying. (just went to Guitar Center today and they had zero 8-strings) :(

Yeah, I feel ya!
Best thing you can do is buy some thick strings and test out the tensions you like, remembering that one fret longer scale length = one semitone lower with the same tension with that string.
Also try capo a bass at the relevent fret to make it's scale length equal to the intended guitar.
And try playing stuff the relevant amount of frets lower and see if you can manage the stretches.

For F#/E I'd recommend the 28.625 - 2 frets longer than 25.5". Do the best you can to see if you think you can handle that.
 

knuckle_head

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For F#/E I'd recommend the 28.625 - 2 frets longer than 25.5". Do the best you can to see if you think you can handle that.

In the interest of science . . . .

;)

If you're testing gauges against scale lengths and have a standard scale bass handy putting a capo at the first fret is 32.125", second is 30.3", third is 28.625", and fourth is 27". Fifth is 25.5".
 

nightflameauto

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In the interest of science . . . .

;)

If you're testing gauges against scale lengths and have a standard scale bass handy putting a capo at the first fret is 32.125", second is 30.3", third is 28.625", and fourth is 27". Fifth is 25.5".

This is a good idea actually.

I would also like to add to all the people trying to say longer scale = better tone, there's something to be said for preference here. It's a different tone, to be certain. But like all things tone, it isn't better or worse. It's a matter of what the person using the instrument wants to achieve.

Basically, shorter scale (25.5 in this case) will give you deeper/thicker tones, while longer scales will progressively result in brighter/tighter tones even if using the same string gauge. While the general consensus around here is that brighter is always better, I'll be the wing-nut to and say sometimes you want deeper tone, even at F# or low E.

However, if you want full speed ahead style metal, you're probably going to be seeking more brightness at that tuning. I think the propensity around here to jump to eights to play modern metal leads to the idea that only longer scale lengths will do.

I think there's a place for both, but it's up to you and your intended use what scale length is going to work for you. The idea of grabbing a bass and a capo to try out scale lengths is really a brilliant one though. It won't tell you what it will sound like, but it will give you a good idea of what your fingers will be able to do on those lower frets.
 

AmishRefugee

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I got my Septor 828 today. It's pretty, it sounds like sex, and I love it.

Don't feel like making an NGD, it's not a very unusual guitar.

Also gold volume knobs FTW

99apZ.jpg


also a few things:

Dropping the F# to E sounds just fine with the 0.72s it comes with stock
the balance of the guitar is a lot different from all the other guitars I have. The neck and body are almost the exact same weight, making it balance right at the highest bolt on the neck.
Also the headstock is HUGE. it's 9.5" long
 

Ben.Last

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the balance of the guitar is a lot different from all the other guitars I have. The neck and body are almost the exact same weight, making it balance right at the highest bolt on the neck.
Also the headstock is HUGE. it's 9.5" long

Yeah. Getting used to the balance of my Septor is pretty interesting after using just my Intrepid for so long. The intrepid, despite it's added inch and a half+ balances like a dream for how I play (neck more vertical, guitar body around waist level). I'm still working on getting comfortable with the Septor's parallel to the floor leanings.
 

col

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I got my Septor 828 today. It's pretty, it sounds like sex, and I love it.

Don't feel like making an NGD, it's not a very unusual guitar.

Also gold volume knobs FTW

99apZ.jpg


also a few things:

Dropping the F# to E sounds just fine with the 0.72s it comes with stock
the balance of the guitar is a lot different from all the other guitars I have. The neck and body are almost the exact same weight, making it balance right at the highest bolt on the neck.
Also the headstock is HUGE. it's 9.5" long

Hey man, is it very heavy compared to say a 7-string? I had an Interceptor 8 before but the weight of the thing was just too much for me and I've been wondering since I sold it if the Septor would be lighter.
 

AmishRefugee

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It's lighter than my Schecter 8, but definitely heavier than my neck-through 6 string. It doesn't seem especially heavy to me
 
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