Tuned My Agile up 1/2 step - neck issues?

[Riffmagus]

Getting to grips with my 8 string last night, and in a bizarre move tuned it all UP 1/2 a step

G,C,F,Bb,Eb,Ab,C,F.

Love the sound of it. Really. Turned it into an awesome Stoner/Doom riff machine.

BIG Question is it likely to harm the neck of the guitar? I can't see much of a bow to the eye, and it all still plays fine to my ears and fingers. No problems doing bends on the old G,B and E strings. Extra bit of tension really brings out the pinch harmonics also.

Am I looking at any serious issues if I don't do any truss rod adjustments? I *think* it has raised my action a little by giving a little back bow to what was a completely flat neck according to the setup guy. But I prefer it this way as I hit the strings hard with a 3mm pick.

Just like to know if I need to do anything as for the moment I am going to keep it in this tuning. After all, with an 8 the skies the limit for tuning possibilities!

Cheers,

-Riff

 

[lobee]

Shouldn't be a problem at all really. I've had my seven string in Keith Merrow tuning(Drop Bb) for a while now and there's no issues.

 

[Riffmagus]

I might be being an ignoramus here - but is that not 1/2 a step DOWN than standard & string tuning?

 

[troyguitar]

No it's up. Standard is F# B EADGBE

You should not have any problems at all with that tuning unless you're trying to use ridiculously huge strings, but the guitar would probably be unplayable at that point

 

[Riffmagus]

Strings are 'Rondo Recommended'

9 12 15 22 30 40 54 and a 72 with cherry on top.

Tbh, the tension felt FAR too spongy before and damn right about now.

 

[lobee]

Yeah you'll have no issues with tuning up a half step with that string gauge. I believe I'm using something like 10-46 and a 56 for the low Bb tuned to Bb F Bb Eb Ab C F.

 

[troyguitar]

Strings are 'Rondo Recommended'

9 12 15 22 30 40 54 and a 72 with cherry on top.

Tbh, the tension felt FAR too spongy before and damn right about now.

Yeah, by ridiculous I meant for example using the .015 for your high F and going up from there. At that point you might turn your neck into a pretzel

 

[Riffmagus]

Awesome, ty guys.

*dons dunce tuning 101 hat*

 

[synrgy]

For what it's worth:

Any time you change the tuning on a guitar, you're also changing the overall tension on the neck. The difference is minute on a string by string basis (IE if you're just doing 'dropped D' on a 6 string it's not a big deal) but when you combine 8 strings of tension differential, that's a big change. At least a few pounds per square inch difference.

SO, the point is -- any time you change the tuning on a guitar, you should also probably make appropriate changes to the truss rod.

For instance -- my buddy just recently switched from 11s to 13s on his 6 string acoustic, and as soon as he did so the action raised roughly half a centimeter. SO, we tightened the truss rod, 1/4 turn per day, checking the next day after letting the wood settle each time. After about 4 days/4 adjustments to the truss rod, the action is back where it should be and the neck is nice and straight instead of bowed upward like it was.

 

[Riffmagus]

But, if I like the action as it plays now - am I going to be looking at any issues if I keep it in this tuning?

It's times like this I wish I was more comfortable with the 'tech' side of things. Gah.

 

[synrgy]

But, if I like the action as it plays now - am I going to be looking at any issues if I keep it in this tuning?

It's times like this I wish I was more comfortable with the 'tech' side of things. Gah.

No worries -- this stuff is really simple. It just *feels* scary because we love our guitars so much and don't want to do it wrong.

If you're comfortable with the action, then things should be fine. Just be mindful if it goes any lower than it already is without you having made any changes in between. I would double check the intonation, though. Like, if you're at perfect pitch on the open string, is it still close to perfect pitch on the 12th fret?

 

[Ironberry]

As long as it plays fine to you, there is no need for adjustment.

 

[Riffmagus]

It's currently showing as a little sharp on all strings when in tuning for open.

 

[synrgy]

It's currently showing as a little sharp on all strings when in tuning for open.

That could support what I'm saying, if I understand the principles right. It's also possible that you just need to make a small adjustment at the bridge to fix the intonation..

I can't make the assessment without looking at the guitar, but a *tiny* adjustment to the truss rod might be in order. (Disclaimer -- this is presuming you're using the same gauge strings you were using before you changed tunings)

Read up on this somewhere else -- don't just take my word for it because I'm highly susceptible to being wrong about some of this, but here's how I understand it to work:

For this description, think of the fretboard as up, and the back of the neck as down.

You've theoretically increased the tension by tuning each string up a half step, so the neck has to compensate for that new tension. It is probably bowing upward *ever so slightly* right now.

Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey. If the neck is bowing upward, you tighten. If it's curving downward, you loosen.

So just as I described before, you'd just make *slight* adjustments, (1/4 turn or so) and then give the guitar at least overnight for the wood to settle into the new position. Make sure your strings are tuned to pitch before and after you adjust the truss rod. When you come back to the guitar the next day you'll probably have to tune it again, as well. Once tuned, check the action, the intonation, and check for fret buzz.

That's really all there is to it. There is absolutely no reason to ever pay somebody else to do it. As long as you strictly adhere to the slight adjustment rule, you really can't do any damage.

 

[hairychris]

It's best to let the neck settle in with the new gauges before changing the truss rod. Wait a couple of weeks.

However the intonation will almost definitely need adjusting. It does after any string gauge or tuning change. Obviously if you then need to tweak the trussrod it may need changing again but it's just one of those things!

 

[troyguitar]

It's currently showing as a little sharp on all strings when in tuning for open.

Then if you like the action as-is, the only adjustment necessary would be to move the saddles a little bit to compensate for the neck moving. Since the strings are sharp, move the saddles closer to the nut.

 

[Riffmagus]

Many thanks for the input guys.

I'm going to leave the guitar for a week or so and just play it - to confirm that I am 100% happy to settle on that tuning. Then, I shall follow the 1/4" turn and leave overnight rule.

With the Dual Truss Rod's in the Agile do I simply adjust both of them? Or just the bass strings side as I presume they are 'pulling' more?

 

[Setnakt]

Pick up the guitar, bring the body up to your eye level, and sight down the length of the neck. If it looks like the neck is bowing more than a miniscule amount, you'll want to adjust the truss rod. If it's bowing on both sides adjust both. Check it the next day to see if it's settled where you want it.

I got my Intrepid Pro and I have to say I have confidence in that neck. It is beefy.