Very durable paint for use on a bridge plate?

[Gregori]

I'm building a bridge and I need to paint the steel base plate. Can anyone recommend something that would be up to the task? I'm mostly concerned about the height adjustment screws leaving ugly scratches. Gloss or semi-gloss black are preferred.

 

[ECGuitars]

Can't really recommend anything, unfortunately almost all paint is gonna scratch off of it, especially underneath the saddles

 

[Gregori]

I'm considering ordering a DuraCoat kit from eBay, but it's freaking $35 w/shipping. However, it's one of the best things I can use since it's a spray-on 2-part epoxy.

But there is also something called "Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy" for sale at the Home Depot for $6 a can. However, I see many mixed reviews for it. And I can only assume that it's not a true epoxy since it's not a 2-part system.

 

[AwDeOh]

Hammerite is VERY tough. I used it on drum lugs for a project a while back, will be using it on a TOM bridge I'm putting into my next build. So long as the screws travel smoothly I doubt a screwdriver will do too much to the finish, and you can always repaint if needed.

 

[Baelzebeard]

Call around and see how much it would cost to get it powder coated. Might be less than you expect if they can throw it in with a big batch of stuff getting the same color.

 

[Gregori]

Are any of those things better than DuraCoat? From what I've been reading, DuraCoat seems to be better than any other spray on finish and powdercoating, but that could be BS.

I went ahead and bought the appliance epoxy and sprayed a test piece. I've got it baking in the oven right now, so I should be able to test it soon.

 

[devolutionary]

You know, another option is to fit the bottom of the height adjustment screws with dots of rubber or similar. I'm sure there's some way to do it.

 

[Gregori]

Update: I baked it for an hour at 400 degrees and then rubbed a saddle across it. It is a very hard finish. One coat took a bit of work to scratch it down to bare metal, and the height adjustment screws on the saddle are very sharp.

I've decided to use this stuff. I'll probably use 4-5 coats, file the ends of the height adjustment screws so they aren't sharp, and then add a dab of silicone to them just in case(thanks devolutionary for the idea).

 

[eddiewarlock]

i have painted bridges all these years with epoxy paint. Works great. Doesn't come off. NOW, beware, if you're using passive pickups, forget about it. It'll isolate the metal of the bridge and you won't be able to ground your guitar. If it has active pickups, go for it. The one i use is made by ACE it's spray paint for tools.

 

[EQGuitars]

I've used appliance epoxy paint on just about all of my multiscale bridge plates and its about as good as you're going to find without powder-coating or anodizing (if using an aluminum plate.) I would recommend only sanding the plate to 220 grit prior to painting and letting subsequent coats level out. It will help the paint stick to the plate and keep it from chipping. Also, to keep it from getting scratched up prematurely, slip a piece of paper under the adjustment screws while you're intonating the bridge, and remove it once the saddles are in their final positions.

 

[Stealthdjentstic]

Arrange for Michael@ Livewire Guitars to powdercoat it for you. Its cheap and long lasting.

 

[elderico]

Wow! Very good info, i´ve been searching something like that for a long time...

Gregori then the Duracoat must be baked in the oven?

Thanks again

 

[Pikka Bird]

NOW, beware, if you're using passive pickups, forget about it. It'll isolate the metal of the bridge and you won't be able to ground your guitar.

I was looking at the baseplate in his build thread, and it looks like the string-through holes aren't blackened, which would mean that the strings touch metal as they pass through, right? If the bottom of the plate is also left unpainted then you could attach the ground there.

 

[teleofseven]

did not read, but my answer is powder coat.

 

[ElRay]

If you're not set on steel, there's a number of "DIY Anodizing Kits" out there for aluminum. That also gives you the option to use almost any color you'd like.

If you are set on steel, there are "DIY Black Oxide" kits too, but I've never seen it done or the results.

A third option would be to get some blueing solution for gun barrels. I've seen this done, it can get very dark, but it still can have a blue tint. In the cases where I've seen the finish scratched through, there's been mechanical damage to the metal (basically you can see and feel the gouge).

A variation on blued barrels are "parkerized", but like the DIY black oxide, I have no experience with this.

Ray

 

[Gregori]

Wow, thanks for all the advice everyone! I think for this one I will be sticking with steel and the Appliance Epoxy, but I'm definitely open to alternative methods for the future. Does anyone know what is typically used on knife blades, like this one?

And here's a pic of the base plate with appliance epoxy on it:

Wow! Very good info, i've been searching something like that for a long time...

Gregori then the Duracoat must be baked in the oven?

Thanks again

I can't remember if it must be baked, but I think it is common practice to bake it. I'm sure if you looked up "duracoat lcw", you would find some more info.